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Does anyone have any advice on my problem. I installed new weatherstripping on my car. no problems until I put it on the doors. I can't get the doors to fully shut. They do catch what I call the first notch but I can not get fully shut. I don't want to "slam" the doors any harder than I already have, and I have tried just pushing REAl hard but still no luck. Any suggestions are appreciated. A body shop guy told me to try putting grease on the rubber. Is that a good idea?
Silicone grease is probably a good idea but it probably won't make much difference. Assuming it's good quality weather stripping and installed right, it will probably take a while before it conforms to the door gap. On my 66 I had to back the door latch off to where it would close with reasonable and moderate effort. Then every couple of months I moved the latch back in slightly to where it took more effort again - but not excessive effort. After 3 or 4 rounds of this over abut 6 months the doors fit good and closed easily. You don't want to leave the doors where it takes excess force to slam them shut - they will spider crack the paint around the door handle and loosen up your windows to rattle.
The weatherstrip has lot to do with it...AND KNOWING what YEAR your car is is also helpful.
DEPENDING on the year model...which is why it is important...closing a door ALL THE WAY with dense weatherstrips installed CAN do damage to the door itself. NOT an opinion...but FACT!
Thanks for the input fellas. The car is a 62. I got the weatherstrip from MidAmerica Corvette. I assume it is good stuff. I am pretty sure I have it in right. I will try backing the striker out just a little and try it again.
THAT is the problem right there. It has EVERYTHING to do with how dense the weatherstrip is. If you door is still hard to close I WOULD STOP...and call Mid America and find out where they are getting the weatherstrip from. And you might need to possibly order some door weatherstrips for Corvette Rubber Company and see if they are softer and not as dense.
Dub, I put the decklid and the trunk rubber on first. No problem getting them to shut fairly easily. So that is why I assumed it is ok stuff. I am gonna try moving the strikers out to see if I can get them to close properly and then over time move them back in. As soon as we get out of this deep freeze we are having here in western Kentucky. Spose to be minus 8 tonight.
Dub, I put the decklid and the trunk rubber on first. No problem getting them to shut fairly easily. So that is why I assumed it is ok stuff. I am gonna try moving the strikers out to see if I can get them to close properly and then over time move them back in. As soon as we get out of this deep freeze we are having here in western Kentucky. Spose to be minus 8 tonight.
I can relate to the cold. It is cold here in Charlotte. Maybe not that cold...but darn close.
I am only commenting the way I am because I run into weatherstrips that are sometimes offered from some vendors...and they change suppliers for something cheaper to make more $$$....and I end up paying for it and have to find what I was using. Which is why I mentioned calling MidAmerica and finding out or even having Corvette Rubber send you a small section of their weatherstrip and see if it is any better if the supplier for MidAmerica is different.
I know by how they feel if they are good or crap...due to doing so many Corvettes. AND I CAN TELL YOU...NO JOKE...when I am restoring a Corvette and I get eh doors PERFECT...and install the door main weatherstrips or convertible deck lid weatherstrip and when I close the door or deck lid and the weatherstrip is actually pushing out so hard it makes the door/decklid no longer be flush.....THAT is what will 'tick' me off. SO I have learned that BEFORE I go and glue them in is to make sure I have the good ones.
The manufacturer I worked for (Ford) had a spec range on door weatherstrip durometer. The door closing efforts (which we paid attention to) on our products would ebb and flow with each batch of door weatherstrips as received in the plant. All within spec. We also found out, the rubber manufacturers tended to run to the hard side, just to make sure they didn't go out of spec to the low side. I would expect the aftermarket suppliers don't have any better control over the durometer of their rubber products than the OEM suppliers.
We didn't have the luxury of cheating on the striker setting and allowing the doors to leave the plant with them not being pulled flush. The only saving grace was time. Hopefully time before the customer bought the vehicle and then get surveyed by JD Powers 90 days in service Quality Survey and asked about door closing efforts. That was a big thing with us as a plant.
The difference in closing efforts between the soft side of the durometer spec and the hard side was very substantial.
In all cases, over time, the rubber relaxed and even hard closing doors started to shut/latch easily.
The manufacturer I worked for (Ford) had a spec range on door weatherstrip durometer. The door closing efforts (which we paid attention to) on our products would ebb and flow with each batch of door weatherstrips as received in the plant. All within spec. We also found out, the rubber manufacturers tended to run to the hard side, just to make sure they didn't go out of spec to the low side. I would expect the aftermarket suppliers don't have any better control over the durometer of their rubber products than the OEM suppliers.
We didn't have the luxury of cheating on the striker setting and allowing the doors to leave the plant with them not being pulled flush. The only saving grace was time. Hopefully time before the customer bought the vehicle and then get surveyed by JD Powers 90 days in service Quality Survey and asked about door closing efforts. That was a big thing with us as a plant.
The difference in closing efforts between the soft side of the durometer spec and the hard side was very substantial.
In all cases, over time, the rubber relaxed and even hard closing doors started to shut/latch easily.
SUPER THANKS for your input and experiences from the manufacturing side of things.
And like you when you were building the cars...much like myself...I do not have months to get the doors and decklid to work...and having to try to explain to a person who occasionally does not grasp the fact that NOT everything being made is like what the factory had made. IT may LOOK the same...but not actually BE the same. That is why catalogs and photos do not ALWAYS show the flaws in the parts....and price shopping because they 'all look the same' can come back and HAUNT YOU.
SUPER THANKS for your input and experiences from the manufacturing side of things.
And like you when you were building the cars...much like myself...I do not have months to get the doors and decklid to work...and having to try to explain to a person who occasionally does not grasp the fact that NOT everything being made is like what the factory had made. IT may LOOK the same...but not actually BE the same. That is why catalogs and photos do not ALWAYS show the flaws in the parts....and price shopping because they 'all look the same' can come back and HAUNT YOU.
DUB
You got it!
The assembly plants always got the blame when in fact the real blame for closing efforts was the very wide durometer spec range of the rubber.
All the advice is spot on....after my coupe door weatherstripping has sat for the last 6-8 months....I moved the strikers inboard another 1/16" or so and now the doors fit is quite good. The passenger door is now hard to completely close again but I believe it will pass when the rubber takes its final set...
Thanks for all the advice fellas!!! I slightly loosened the strikers and tapped them out a little and tried shutting with no luck. Then repeated the process a couple of times until they shut fine. Over the next several months I will gradually move them in until nice and flush. Now all I need is an expert to come visit me and install the wipers and these $#@#$% cables!!! These things are driving me nuts!
Thanks for all the advice fellas!!! I slightly loosened the strikers and tapped them out a little and tried shutting with no luck. Then repeated the process a couple of times until they shut fine. Over the next several months I will gradually move them in until nice and flush. Now all I need is an expert to come visit me and install the wipers and these $#@#$% cables!!! These things are driving me nuts!
Do you have the diagram for how the wiper cables are supposed to cross one another?
Yes, I googled "how to install wiper etc" and got the forum article on how to do it. My problem is that the passenger side transmission is messed up. When I shoved the outside shaft in to release the tension, the sprocket or whatever you call it came off. The whole shaft came out of the housing. Now I'm not sure how to put it back together so that it is the right length. Is there a place to send the whole piece to get it rebuilt that you know of? Thanks for the help.
Here's one person who offers to do it, but I can't vouch for him. http://www.ebay.com/itm/250743016641?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
type this # in the e-bay search window/box 250743016641
Last edited by Solid Axle Guy; Feb 26, 2015 at 10:49 PM.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
OP, also be aware that temperature has a big effect on durometer readings, obviously. Your cold temps may be affecting your current results. I like to let new weatherstripping sit out in the sun on a hot day.
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