Help with engine install
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 360
From: San Clemente CA
Help with engine install
I'm planning to install the motor back into my 55 in a few weeks and have a question about the best/safest lift points for this.
When I removed the motor without the trans I used the 4 outer intake manifold bolt locations. Now that I am putting it in with the trans attached, I am concerned about the best points to lift since I will be tilting the heavier engine/trans a lot more during the install. I don't want to damage the FI intake manifold that is already installed on the motor. I have a 4 chain leveler.
Should I use the 4 outer exhaust manifold bolts or am I OK with the intake manifold location? Or, should I use head bolts instead?
Additionally, I have read about shims being used on the RH frame engine mount. When I removed the engine mounts, there were no shims, so I assume I do not have to worry about this. What was the purpose of the shims at any rate? Thanks for your help.
When I removed the motor without the trans I used the 4 outer intake manifold bolt locations. Now that I am putting it in with the trans attached, I am concerned about the best points to lift since I will be tilting the heavier engine/trans a lot more during the install. I don't want to damage the FI intake manifold that is already installed on the motor. I have a 4 chain leveler.
Should I use the 4 outer exhaust manifold bolts or am I OK with the intake manifold location? Or, should I use head bolts instead?
Additionally, I have read about shims being used on the RH frame engine mount. When I removed the engine mounts, there were no shims, so I assume I do not have to worry about this. What was the purpose of the shims at any rate? Thanks for your help.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 28
From: Long Beach CA
Since I have a newer engine/heads, I always use the bolt holes on the front and back of the heads. Since you don't have those, I would be inclined to get longer chains and use the exhaust manifold mounting holes. It gives you a wider base for balancing/maneuvering the engine and trans around as you're dropping it back in.
Not to highjack your thread, but I have a question for the others here. I have seen engines hoisted by a plate that bolts to the carburetor mounting studs. I guess it works, but it just doesn't seem like those carb studs are really strong enough to handle the weight of an engine/trans.
Not to highjack your thread, but I have a question for the others here. I have seen engines hoisted by a plate that bolts to the carburetor mounting studs. I guess it works, but it just doesn't seem like those carb studs are really strong enough to handle the weight of an engine/trans.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I have used the same exact points on the intake as what you used and HAVE NEVER had an issue. I ALWAYS pull the engine with the transmission attached. I also have an engine tilter and would be lost without it. I have installed big blocks and small blocks , automatic and manual transmission and never had an issue.
My set-up allows me to correctly position and make sure the bolts I use in the outer intake manifold bolt areas will not hurt the intake and NOT BEND.
DUB
My set-up allows me to correctly position and make sure the bolts I use in the outer intake manifold bolt areas will not hurt the intake and NOT BEND.
DUB
Instructor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 169
Likes: 14
From: Columbus Ohio
I have had the same concern of a carb lift plate, but searching the archives, there was a lot of good info, what I remember most was an aluminum manifold with a good tapped hole will with stand 500 lbs. so four studs would hold 2000 lbs, I have used a plate multiple times ...no issues
was
was
Since I have a newer engine/heads, I always use the bolt holes on the front and back of the heads. Since you don't have those, I would be inclined to get longer chains and use the exhaust manifold mounting holes. It gives you a wider base for balancing/maneuvering the engine and trans around as you're dropping it back in.
Not to highjack your thread, but I have a question for the others here. I have seen engines hoisted by a plate that bolts to the carburetor mounting studs. I guess it works, but it just doesn't seem like those carb studs are really strong enough to handle the weight of an engine/trans.
Not to highjack your thread, but I have a question for the others here. I have seen engines hoisted by a plate that bolts to the carburetor mounting studs. I guess it works, but it just doesn't seem like those carb studs are really strong enough to handle the weight of an engine/trans.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,356
Likes: 870
From: Norcal CA
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
Recently, I pulled my engine twice. Both times I used a carb plate. From what I could tell it gave me more clearance then using the intake bolts. I did use the intake option when I first installed the engine. The only thing I would be concerned with is making sure the balance is good while you are lifting it up and over the front end body. Also installed the engine with the transmission. I never pulled it out with the transmission.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 360
From: San Clemente CA
I still don't understand the engine mounting procedure as described in the assembly manual. Does anyone use shims and why? Seems that lowering the engine on the mounts should be straight forward. Since this is the first time I will be doing it, I would appreciate any tips and things to watch out for.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 360
From: San Clemente CA
DUB,
I will use grade 8 bolts for sure. When the rebuild shop lifted and transported the motor using the intake manifold points, one front bolt pulled out, slightly damaging the manifold! Fortunately it was repaired, but hence the reason for my concern.
I will use grade 8 bolts for sure. When the rebuild shop lifted and transported the motor using the intake manifold points, one front bolt pulled out, slightly damaging the manifold! Fortunately it was repaired, but hence the reason for my concern.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Brookings Oregon
Engine install question. You stated a FI intake?
I'd use exhaust manifold bolts and fabricate some metal tabs to hold the chains away from any original parts.
On a 4bbl intake the carb pad does work but kind of negates the use of a leveling device. I'd spread the leveler force out.
I wouldn't use the intake manifold it's a FI based unit.
Richard
On a 4bbl intake the carb pad does work but kind of negates the use of a leveling device. I'd spread the leveler force out.
I wouldn't use the intake manifold it's a FI based unit.
Richard
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
DUB