I have a "65 coupe that i replaced the windshield frame and 1/2 of the pillar going toward the roof section. I lost my original measurements and now the fit isn't as good as i would like. The gap at the place where the door meets the roof is off. The door is line up well at the door handle side but not at the top edge, near the front. The window gasket was put in and seems to fit well. I was wondering how much clearance there is around the glass to the window frame? Also I need some measurements of the window frame! I have 22.5" from the center outside frame upper to outside center lower. Could I get a measurement from the lower center(middle) then over 21 inches, then that measurement up the

vertical distance. I would be measuring from the frame that is not touching the fiberglass, but the frame that the window glass gasket rolls around. Mine measures 19 3/4" to the leading edge. I am open to other ways to measure this dilemma.

 

I wish that before you did this you posted your thoughts...and posted them in the 'Paint and body' section here on the Corvette Forum. Because if you had... I could have told you how you could have constructed a relatively fast and easy template that would have fit your original frame inside shape.

Hopefully someone can give you measurements...because currently I have a couple of mid-years in the shop but none with the windshield out of them.

DUB

 

Dub, any chance you could post how to made the template?

 

Before I do... and if I do at all....stop and think about it.

How would a person make a template that has the curve of the windshield in it and be made rather easily without a lot of grief?

And keep in mind WHAT I do for a living....and WHAT I have access to everyday when I repair Corvettes.

If you put together what I just wrote...it is crystal clear on what to do.

DUB

 

Dub, I too would appreciate hearing a how-to of how you replace a windshield frame and pillar section to just above the door hinge. Templates first and what to watch for? You are kinda like the John Z of paint and body work and your comments are always appreciated.
Reed

 

I appreciate that a lot.

But my past post has not yet been answered about the template by someone who is willing to take the challenge and 'stop and think about it'.

DUB

 

You can find the dimensions in the AIM, however the best way to check fit would be to use your windshield and see how it fits. Alternatively trace a piece of cardboard etc. against your windshield and use as a template, but the only sure way to check all the contours is to use your windshield.You may have to waste a gasket but that will work out more economical in the long run.

 

IF you were answering my question about a template...THANKS FOR THE REPLY...you are getting close but not quite there.

No wasting a gasket because the gasket is not a factor or even a part of the equation at this time... and IF a piece of cardboard is used...how would you get it to hold the curve shape of the windshield PERFECTLY?

DUB

 

Instead of cardboard make a template with fiberglass that is laid on the windshield to get the curve when its hard?

 

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!!!!!!!

YES. Then while the fiberglass is on your windshield that you either masked off or applied a REALLY GOOD coat of wax on....and then I use a flexible but rigid material to tape to the windshield and then using some of my thermo-stable wax (or modeling clay)...build out the width and length of the windshield so I can laminate it out further so the template will fit RIGHT INSIDE the opening when trimmed....and YES..I remove the molding clips.

AND THEN...when the fiberglass has cured up and still on the windshield...I make a half round re-reinforcement out of foam and bond it to the fiberglass and then fiberglass and resin over it so the template will not BEND or FLEX. Several of these half round foams are applied to make the template be stout. This foam is the same type of foam used at a florist for fake flowers displays.

DUB

 

I understand the template. Except for the foam part how thick? And would i still need to know what the clearance is between the glass to the windshield frame?

 

That's Dub for your info on the template. I had not thought of doing it that way but when you mentioned what you worked with as a clue it hit me. Your process for making the template is most appreciated.

 

That last post is supposed to say "thanks" not "that's". The brain is working faster than my fingers on the keyboard.

 

When strengthening a piece of fiberglass that you do not want to move. The half round pieces of foam can be like a broom stick handle cut in half. You will be amazed on how much strength this added shape gives to the template.

So my foams will go across the windshield ( 3 of them...spaced out somewhat evenly) and the go form top to bottom ( 5 of them)to take any chance if movement out of the equation. So the 'grid'...will look like and egg crate...so to speak. Do not OVER THINK IT. And you can attach or laminate in a handles so it can go in and out with ease.

1/2" high...1" wide or there abouts.

DO NOT apply more than 3 layers of ounce an a half of mat and resin due to the heat being built up...and I hope you have calculated in how much MEKP to add so it does not set up too fast...and by too fast...I mean in a couple of hours at normal air temps (70-85F)

This template will be made so when you make it to your current frame BEFORE you hack on it. It will do 'whatever' you made it to do.

If you have your template made and trimmed out but see that you still have issues where you might have slight gaps and the template will not seat down flush like you want it.. This is when I use a trick that I use a lot. NOW...taking into account the thickness of masking tape....I mask off the pinch weld area COMPLETELY and I may apply 2-4 layers of masking tape. And when I am taping it. I apply ONE complete layer at a time so my overlaps in tape can be controlled and I am not getting TOO MUCH tape in one area and it messes up what I am trying to do. THEN...when I have it masked off ..I apply a mold release wax to the tape and leave a good film of it. If you have some good wax...use it.

Here is the tricky part...because I am a FAN of Vette Panel Adhesive and I mix up some and go around in the pinchweld and quickly apply it and then when the whole pinchweld WHERE THE TEMPLATE is going to touch had VPA on it. I set the template onto the VPA and let it begin to set up. When it starts to harden well..I slowly and carefully get the template to release from the tape with the WAX on it. When it is out. I remove the tape....and DEPENDING one how much tape you applied and how well you did it. The template should fit very well. AND depending on how much tape you sued which you know is adding thickness..the template may have a slight bit of movement...but what it being done....this little bit of play is not that critical.

Once again. I have mastered using VPA and know how to mix it and let it set in the mixing board before I apply it so it is thicker and will hang and NOT run off a panel when upside down.....so whatever you choose to use to build this gap...test it first. You do not have to use VPA...I just have it around all the time and it serves its purpose.

IF you are concerned if your wax will work..DO A SMALL TEST SPOT...with whatever you are planning on using so you will know WHEN yo try to get it to release....if you plan on doing this at all. Cheaper bondo should work...and if you do...TEST IT.

DUB

 

Thanks again for the additional info!

 

Those idea's will help many.