Jacking engine from below
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Louisiana
Jacking engine from below
I need to pull and rebuild bro n laws water pump on the 59.The service guide says to jack from below so you can take the front engine support off.Do you think I could make something out of wood to spread the load on oil pan and jack it that way.I'm also putting a pic of the thermostat housing when I removed upper rad. hose.Thanks for any suggestions on the jacking.Eddie
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From: Close to DC
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Welcome to the CF. Hopefully you will do as suggested. Part of that calls for removing the plug on each side of the block that allows the remaining coolant to be drained. But, many times, and I sure in this case, when the plug is removed, the hole is clogged with crap. Use a pointed object to get it cleared and proceed too flush the entire cooling system including the heater core. A note about the core. Too remove the hoses, slice them and then peel them off. Don't wrangle the hoses, that may break the connection rendering the core useless. Hope this helps. 
Dennis
Dennis
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Washington Michigan
Here's an engine lifter I made nearly 20 years ago that picks up the engine on the pan rail and doesn't risk damage to the bottom of the oil pan. The base is a 2x6, 9-1/2" long, and the sides are 1x6, 8" high, attached with four 3-1/2" long wood screws up through the base on each side. The notch in the side is to clear the "bump" in the pan for the dipstick. Crude, but very effective. 
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 299
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From: Troy New York
I have had to replace the water pump on my 59 several times over the 53 years I have owned her.... absolutely no problem in using a piece of wood on the oil plan to lift the engine....remember, all you have to do is take the weigh off the engine mounts....raising the engine 1/4" should be more than enough...
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,252
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From: Lake Saint Louis Mo
I built the same thing as JohnZ as I would rather have the weight on
the flange of the pan then the bottom. I also found that using studs to align the gaskets, mount and pump made it simple to assemble.
I just bought exhaust manifold studs at an auto parts store.
Larry
the flange of the pan then the bottom. I also found that using studs to align the gaskets, mount and pump made it simple to assemble.
I just bought exhaust manifold studs at an auto parts store.
Larry
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From: Del Boca Vista FL
Here's an engine lifter I made nearly 20 years ago that picks up the engine on the pan rail and doesn't risk damage to the bottom of the oil pan. The base is a 2x6, 9-1/2" long, and the sides are 1x6, 8" high, attached with four 3-1/2" long wood screws up through the base on each side. The notch in the side is to clear the "bump" in the pan for the dipstick. Crude, but very effective.
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Louisiana
Welcome to the CF. Hopefully you will do as suggested. Part of that calls for removing the plug on each side of the block that allows the remaining coolant to be drained. But, many times, and I sure in this case, when the plug is removed, the hole is clogged with crap. Use a pointed object to get it cleared and proceed too flush the entire cooling system including the heater core. A note about the core. Too remove the hoses, slice them and then peel them off. Don't wrangle the hoses, that may break the connection rendering the core useless. Hope this helps. Dennis
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Louisiana
Thanks for all the responses,I do plan on cleaning the entire cooling system really good.I do need help locating the plugs on the block.Thanks for the pic John Z, I will make something similar. I guess you need gaskets on both sides of the engine support for water pump.I also see that there is a 1 inch gap on top of radiator to shroud,seems like a lot of air could bypass radiator that way?One other question can the oil pan be pulled and the gaskets changed with engine still in place??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Toms River New Jersey
There is one drain plug on each side of the engine block located just above the oil pan mounting flange. They're accessable from below. Most I've seen are a threaded steel plug with a square head but I have seen hex head bolts used also. I replaced mine with brass many years ago so they come out easy. Rich
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From: Louisiana
There is one drain plug on each side of the engine block located just above the oil pan mounting flange. They're accessable from below. Most I've seen are a threaded steel plug with a square head but I have seen hex head bolts used also. I replaced mine with brass many years ago so they come out easy. Rich
Team Owner
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Army
Inspect the mounting points and bolts carefully on removal. It is a stress point on these cars. There are some who have even made a reinforcing plate for those areas. Can't recall specifically but Tom Parsons might be one DZAuto on here...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Chicopee MA.
Make sure that you use the correct type of sealer on the gaskets. The wrong type will allow the water pump and motor mount to shift from the torque of the engine and leak.
I think that silicon is the type that should NOT be used, someone will correct me if I am wrong.
I think that silicon is the type that should NOT be used, someone will correct me if I am wrong.
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Army
Here is the thread I referred to above (you also want to use Permatex #2 sealer):
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-the-56-a.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-the-56-a.html