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Catastrophic Electrical Failure

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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 12:53 PM
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Default Catastrophic Electrical Failure

Yesterday my wife asked if we could go out in our 1966 coupe. She never does that. Stick, power steering and brakes, base engine, A/C (lost charge during winter), a joy to drive. Turned a corner And catastrophic electrical failure.

I am not a mechanic in any way.

Battery top notch, alternator working to the end, no lights, no clock, no courtesy lights, nothing. After a tow home...

I have looked over the wiring, can find nothing out of place. I have no lift so can not get under the car safely... But thinking, " could I have had some kind of starter solenoid failure?" With there being hot wire only to solenoid, and not a trail wire to alternaltor, then all must feed back through the hot lead to charge.
Thoughts?
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 12:59 PM
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Jiggle the bulk head conector on the engine side of the fire wall that's under the drivers side hood latch My hunch the hot red wire lost connection
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 57years
Yesterday my wife asked if we could go out in our 1966 coupe. She never does that. Stick, power steering and brakes, base engine, A/C (lost charge during winter), a joy to drive. Turned a corner And catastrophic electrical failure.

I am not a mechanic in any way.

Battery top notch, alternator working to the end, no lights, no clock, no courtesy lights, nothing. After a tow home...

I have looked over the wiring, can find nothing out of place. I have no lift so can not get under the car safely... But thinking, " could I have had some kind of starter solenoid failure?" With there being hot wire only to solenoid, and not a trail wire to alternaltor, then all must feed back through the hot lead to charge.
Thoughts?
Classic problem is the harness connector at the outside firewall vibrates loose.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by OC-1
Classic problem is the harness connector at the outside firewall vibrates loose.
She probably won't be borrowing your 66 from you any more.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Jiggle the bulk head conector on the engine side of the fire wall that's under the drivers side hood latch My hunch the hot red wire lost connection
Thanks, No response where bulkhead wires jiggled.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 01:28 PM
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Default Bulk head

Try removing both sides of the connection and thoroughly cleaning the connection. I would use contact cleaner and an old toothbrush. If that does not work, a test light or volt meter may be in your future to trace down a broken wire or failed ignition switch. Jerry
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 01:34 PM
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My 66 ac roadster did the same thing, then I'd open the hood and it would start as the connection would reconnect on the bulk head…..took me a while to trouble shoot. I replaced bulk head connector - a PITA and no problems since…..I bet money your problem is the bulk head connector.

Good luck electrical gremlins suck….
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 01:45 PM
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Pull the connectors apart under the master cylinder on the bulkhead as described earlier. Check carefully the one with the large red wire. You will probably find a corroded or bent pin on one side or the other. Some have run a jumper to bypass the red wire pins in that connector for just the reason you have experienced. All the voltage for the interior of the car are passed from the horn relay through that pin to the fuse box.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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Time was up on the quarter you put in?

Just trying to add some humor.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy G.
Time was up on the quarter you put in?

Just trying to add some humor.
WIFE or CORVETTE?
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 02:21 PM
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Of course disconnect the battery before screwing with those bulkhead connectors; in addition to thoroughly cleaning them, look for bent or 'pushed in' pins...
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Of course disconnect the battery before screwing with those bulkhead connectors; in addition to thoroughly cleaning them, look for bent or 'pushed in' pins...
Make sure you have a disconnected battery before plugging the connector back in.
Rick
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 04:54 PM
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Thanks to all! I just finished the dis and re construct of the two wire wire plugs on the firewall into back of fuse panel. SUCCESS! The mail hot lead metal insert was somewhat pushed Backinto the plug. I tidied up the plug and made extra effort to push wires as I pushed plug back into place. New electrical tape beforehand also.

Raining today, so can not try on a rough road for "CONFIDENCE" test.

Once again, thanks to involved members!
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 04:59 PM
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Awe,,, dont ya just love happy endings
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 05:06 PM
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Well - I'll reserve comment until after the CONFIDENCE test.

My '63 connectors had green corrosion in the bulkhead connectors in addition to a pushed in pin. One of the first tasks when I got the car was to straighten that stuff out right away.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 10:09 PM
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I had a "pin" issue(alignment) on my firewall connector, cleaned the connection and had no problems for several years. Finally decided ( 2 years ago) that a 45 year old electrical system (not hacked) was near the end of it's life expectancy. Sure, people will say that there were many good years of life to the wiring but why gamble on something that was not designed to last that long. My car is fully insured but if it went up in flames I then had to start the search for the car of my dreams, not worth it in my mind.
Rick
P.S. It was amazing how "hard" the wiring was compared to the new LetricLimited wiring.
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Old Apr 3, 2015 | 02:55 AM
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Just a suggestion

Its a little bit of money... but IF your engine bay wiring harness is the original one to the car, it wouldn't hurt to replace it, as it probably wasn't meant to last 45 years.

For about $350 You can get the harness and its not too difficult to install. The dash harness is the bug-a-boo.
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