Assuming that you are talking about a C-2 corvette,it is the retaining clips for the upper and lower trim that is installed prior to the windshield and seal. Make sure that you use sealant on the screws that secure the clips to the bird cage or they will leak water into the interior of the car. I can send you pics if you need them.

 

Pics would be great - I'm talking a 64 vert. So its the clips that must be installed first - then the windshield, then the bottom trim?

 

I also remember reading on here about installing the lower trim first, but thought maybe I read it wrong. Makes no sense to me.

 

That is correct. It is also important to get the correct clips in correct locations.
I will post pics in the morning.
RC

 

I know it's more work for you but I would see if they have a Facebook page and rip them a new one. Social media is definitely great for getting companies to play fair. My wife complained on the phone about her FitBit watch falling apart and and got nowhere. She posted the situation on Facebook and they shipped her a new one immediately and apologized for the problem. I really hate when companies stick you with something they know has a problem.

 

Or simply use the Better Business Bureau...I've gotten several ugly issues resolved through the local BBB. Unlike FB or that other social media nonsense, the BBB gets actively involved in contacting the company on your behalf and provides a 'report card' on their voracity....

 

I'm probably a week away from installing a new windshield in a 65 coupe. After reading all the posts - I think I have many of the steps understood but am a bit fuzzy on the application of the glazing (3M 08509). What I'm thinking at present is - after the windshield has been inserted into the rubber gasket, I will "squirt" the glazing compound into the windshield gasket slot that goes over the "chassis lip". Here is where what I believe an inevitable mess begins. Next I push the "rope" into the slot. The glazing will of course get all over the rope and everything else. Next, do my best to wipe up the edges prior to placing the windshield into the chassis. Finally I will fit the windshield to the chassis by pulling the "messy rope" and causing lip of the windshield gasket to fit over the lip of the chassis. This all sounds very do-able but requires allot of masking and care to control the spread of glazing (the mess).

From posts read, I believe that glazing between the chassis lip and the windshield gasket is necessary for a leak proof seal.

In the installation examples that use the rope, they do not use a glazing sealer in the gasket and do not deal with the mess. I have not yet found an example that uses a modified cotter pin puller instead of the rope - but can visualize how that would work.

So bottom line, I'm gearing up for the big mess. Anyone out there know a better way?

Thanks
Aaron

 

Using a Corvette Rubber windshield gasket this was my experience doing a windshield gasket change out: The windshield and gasket were combined together for installation onto the winshield frame pinch weld. The rope trick was used to facilitate the install over and onto the pinch weld.. .. No sealer was used in the pinch weld gasket channel. After the windshield/gasket were set in place the outer gasket perimeter inside the windshield frame was squirted with sealer. After reinstalling the SS windshield trim the outer exposed gasket resting against the windshield was worked with a putty knife and raised up to allow sealer to be squirted underneath the gasket lip. This part did make a mess but was fairly easy to clean up afterwards. So far........no leaks.
John

 

From my experience as an Auto Glazier you are correct putting the gasket on the w/s first, but don't but the sealant on the gasket. That will just make a mess and possibly create problems getting the lip of the gasket over the pinchweld. Next put your twine in the gasket, you will then want to put some soapless hand cleaner all around the lip side of the gasket to make it nice and slick. Make sure you start at the bottom middle and go up the side and around the top then down the other side and pass by where you started from so the twine overlaps for a short length at the bottom. Have someone help you set the w/s on the car and make sure the lip sits up against the pinchweld, then start pulling the twine with your help giving lite pressure on the outside of the w/s as you pull, this will make sure it doesn't "pop off" the lip of the pinchweld. Sometimes the gasket will get caught on the w/s molding clips but you can just lightly push the gasket down with your hand. I usually start pulling and get slightly around the first bottom corner then start the other end catching up to the opposite side so it keeps you even. Then continue on slowly each way. After you get the w/s in some light pressure on the w/s helps to make sure it's all the way on the pinchweld. Now you can put your sealer in the gap between the body and gasket filling it level with the gasket. Smooth it out with your finger. Put your molding on and your good. We used to use Coleman fuel (white gas) to clean up any sealant that got on the body or moldings, seemed like it was less hazardous to the paint. Hope this helps.

 

Just for the record. Auto City SELLS Pilkington glass. I've installed over 100 of them. Never had a problem. Just finished installing one in a C2 convertible. (Jan 2017)

Fit's perfectly.

 

mrg & db59 - thanks, instructions much appreciated.

Aaron

 

fter cleaning up the windshield channel, resealing and painting it, cleaning and painting the clips, installing the clips with sealer on the
screws, I installed the the windshield. I basically followed the advise from above posts. I put the gasket on the windshield using masking
tape to keep the gasket attached on the top side. 9/64 inch nylon rope was placed in the rubber gasket slot that fit over the pinch weld.
I placed the windshield in the opening and slipped the gasket "inside the clips" - centering it right and left. I pulled the making tape pieces off the top
portion and then went inside and started pulling on the rope. Note: this was all done dry - I did not use any lubrication. The Rope trick
worked well, I did a foot or so on each side at a time and after each foot of "lip flip" I would go outside and push or manipulate as necessary
to make sure the gasket was in place. It got harder as I went up each side and around the top corner. Here the windshield was most of the way
in so the pressure between the gasket and the pinch weld increased. I used a plastic molding pry bar to coax the rubber gasket lip out and
around the pinch weld - going about an inch at a time on the top to assist the rope pulling. I suppose if I had used a lubricant, this might have been easier.
After the lip was full around the pinch weld, I used the handle end of a hammer to push the gasket onto the pinch weld from the inside. This
seated it and was a necessary step. Then I went around the windshield from the outside with a plastic pry bar to make sure the gasket was still seated
on the glass.

I was pleased with the installation - it took about 60 minutes. In retrospect, applying lubricant on the bottom portion of the rubber gasket, for the top portion of the windshield might make it easier.

So when it was done, I took the car out with the defroster on full heat, figured the heat plus a few bumpy roads would help to seat what was not already right. Next step would be to is squirt the bedding (Black stuff) between the rubber gasket and the window frame - hopefully keeping it under that gasket lip.

I had given a lot of thought to installing the gasket on the pinch weld first and then installing the glass - not sure why this would not work, it would
certainly allow for better bedding (that black stuff). BUT - nobody seemed to do it that way and I figured there must be a reason.

So the problem now is with the glass itself - the glass I got is distorted at the right bend, did not notice until it was installed. - This has me a bit bothered, very noticeable and I'm not going to use the existing glass - Ordering new now - will let you know who that goes.

Which brings me to a question - I probably know the answer - Do I need a new windshield rubber gasket?

Aaron

 

I spoke to the vendor about the glass - sent pictures of a grid I had drawn on a piece of cardboard to show the distortion and where it was in the glass. Although I still do not like the delay, the vendor was great - new glass is on its way. It is really nice when people back up their products.

 

I HAVE SEEN THIS DONE ALOT WITH SEVERAL STREET ROD BUDDYS! when they chop a top they grand the glass down. they would use duct tape and make there margins. and have a mister of water to keep the grit down. they would start the grinding in one area say the top! very light pressure on the glass, and make a couple bevel cuts on the glass each side. and then stop and let the glass rest for a few hours. then they would come back and flatten those bevels out. and let it rest again. then start over..this would take a couple days to get it down to size. I know it sounds crazy but these guys know what there doing when it comes to chopping a car and its components. I hope that helps..good luck troy

 

C4toC2.

If you carefully get the weatherstrip to come out from the pinchweld....by basically reversing the procedure you used to get it in using the rope method. I seriously doubt that you need another gasket.

Not knowing how many threads you may have looked at on this issue. I do know..and this is coming from experience. If I were putting your windshield in like the dozens I have already done... and if you brought me the 3M Bedding and Glazing compound. I would give right back to you. I have used it in the past... but it has failed me and I will NEVER use it in a windshield sealing area of a Corvette ever again. The 3M 08509 may go in all nice and creamy....but in time it actually dries up ...pulls back and gets thicker...and when the windshield leaks...and you pull the trim...out comes a strip of it that is almost like the 3M strip caulk.

I use CR Laurence CRL 7708 and CRL 1716. The 7708 I put down in the area where the gasket and clips are...by using a unique tool I made that can get deep down in that area and I can pump it in and let it ooze out. The CR1716 is what I use BETWEEN the gasket and the glass.

Needless to say...use what you like.

And ...this will get really messy but that is kinda what I want. I want to make sure I have enough sealant in the area to stop leaks. The 3M 8984 General Purpose Adhesive remover works really well on clean up.

DUB

 

For what it's worth I've had vendors refuse to replace a bad part because of time, but I found a way around it. Buy another one from the same vendor and when you get it, switch the good part with the bad part and then send the bad part back for a refund with the new receipt.

 

Regarding the Seal - the vendor sent me a new one at no charge. I will shop a Paragon again - I need to Rebuild/new differential and all the bushings that go with the rear suspension.

 

Interesting about the sealant. I will look into what you recommend. I have a pretty good paint shop down the street that caries a bunch of new technology sealants. I have zero experience with this stuff so the advice is appreciated.

 

Yes...there are a lot of new technology sealants out on the market...and have some of them... but I do not use them in this areas of a 1963-1967 windshield. I use what I suggested.

Hopefully the shop you have by you will know that the sealant in this area should not set up and cure like a normal windshield urethane...and if they have some of them ...hopefully one will work.

DUB

 

Hmmmm - I have a 65 coupe and I did not see this post before my windshield installation. I put my windshield in dry with no goop on the pinch weld. It went in really nicely, however I'm having trouble sealing it, and if this last try adding goop does not do it, I will get a new seal and try again. - I have three areas around clips where I have water leaks. What I see from the pictures is two things 1. Putting down goop (3m 8509 ) on the out side of the pinch weld, especially around the clips. This is prior to windshield installation using the rope trick. 2. Filling the space and covering the clips with goop, this is the space between the rubber seal and the body.

I did add a "nozzle" attachment my tube of "goop" to allow me to squirt the stuff under the rubber seal, but found that the 3m tubes are pretty lousy and leak around the piston if you apply the pressure to get the goop to flow through an 1/8 inch tube.

I may also try a different sealant - I'm questioning this idea of staying original when it comes to this part of the assembly