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Hi-
Car is '64 300hp 4 sp, all stock. The car has become increasingly harder to start. Once she does, she runs pissah, as we say here. In fact, I would go so far to say that she runs wicked pissah. One thing I've noticed in my starting attempts is that it seems to start just as I'm giving up and turning the key back towards the Off position. I won't say this happens all the time but it makes me suspicious. So do you think it could be something in the switch? The engine cranks with the starter, is getting fuel (actually too much from the repeated cranks) I never crank it more than a couple seconds. Sometimes it sounds like is going to start for a split second but doesn't. A weak coil was a thought too but would that show itself while it was running?
Hi-
Car is '64 300hp 4 sp, all stock. The car has become increasingly harder to start. Once she does, she runs pissah, as we say here. In fact, I would go so far to say that she runs wicked pissah. One thing I've noticed in my starting attempts is that it seems to start just as I'm giving up and turning the key back towards the Off position. I won't say this happens all the time but it makes me suspicious. So do you think it could be something in the switch? The engine cranks with the starter, is getting fuel (actually too much from the repeated cranks) I never crank it more than a couple seconds. Sometimes it sounds like is going to start for a split second but doesn't. A weak coil was a thought too but would that show itself while it was running?
Thanks, Rich
First thing I'd look at is the integrity of the black/pink wire from the outboard ("R") terminal on the starter solenoid, through the engine harness, to the (+) terminal on the coil (this wire supplies 12V to the coil only while cranking, and if it's loose or missing, the coil will only get power in the "on" position, and none in the "start" position).
First thing I'd look at is the integrity of the black/pink wire from the outboard ("R") terminal on the starter solenoid, through the engine harness, to the (+) terminal on the coil (this wire supplies 12V to the coil only while cranking, and if it's loose or missing, the coil will only get power in the "on" position, and none in the "start" position).
Thanks John. I will check that out. Appreciate the tip.
Thanks John. I will check that out. Appreciate the tip.
--Rich
And if that does not pan out my money is on the ignition switch. I had the identical failure. Fail to start but if I gave up and went from start to off I passed through run enough to light off a jug. It took a while for it to occur to me what was happening. Before that I was chasing vapor lock and other fiction. Old ignition switches wear.
I'm with John on this, the wire from the solenoid. In a very rare condition the solenoid fails inside and does not power that R terminal.
Test lite while cranking will test.
Well, there's good news & bad news. First the good: I swapped out the switch and she fired right up.
Now the bad: I didn't realize there was clip holding the switch to the connector. I pulled a little too hard and one of the wires pulled out of the connector. I jury rigged it with jumpers and that's how I started it. I obviously don't want to leave it this way. Looking thru LIC it looks like I need to get a whole new wiring harness, which sounds like a real PIA. Any thoughts on replacing that connector that the switch fits into? There's not much room to work there. No slack in those wires.
Well, there's good news & bad news. First the good: I swapped out the switch and she fired right up.
Now the bad: I didn't realize there was clip holding the switch to the connector. I pulled a little too hard and one of the wires pulled out of the connector. I jury rigged it with jumpers and that's how I started it. I obviously don't want to leave it this way. Looking thru LIC it looks like I need to get a whole new wiring harness, which sounds like a real PIA. Any thoughts on replacing that connector that the switch fits into? There's not much room to work there. No slack in those wires.
Thanks, Rich
Take the connector off again and on the back side of the wire there is a little piece of metal that is probably flattened ... Take a small screw driver and bend it out so it will catch the locking part on the plastic connector install the wire back into the connector and make sure it locks in to the connector.. DON'T bend it to far or it will snap off !!!! Then reinstall the connector to your switch ! Good Luck
Last edited by c2 husker; May 3, 2015 at 08:53 AM.
Reason: miss spelled
Take the connector off again and on the back side of the wire there is a little piece of metal that is probably flattened ... Take a small screw driver and bend it out so it will catch the locking part on the plastic connector install the wire back into the connector and make sure it locks in to the connector.. DON'T bend it to far or it will snap off !!!! Then reinstall the connector to your switch ! Good Luck
There is a special tool that has multiple tiny flat blades made just for the purpose of taking these connectors apart. Presses in from the back, and pushes the tab down, allowing removal. Works like a charm. And if you break the tab off, you can always uncrimp and unsolder the connector and replace it without cutting into your harness. Takes patience and good body gymnastics. Good luck.
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