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Distributor Replacement

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Old May 15, 2015 | 12:13 PM
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Default Distributor Replacement

OK, I'm slowly working my way through issues/questions on my car, new to me last summer. I was thinking about upgrading the distributor to electronic to eliminate the points. Although I haven't had a problem yet, I remember from my youth the points were problematic. I replaced the stock distributor on my 1968 Z28 with a Mallory dual point distributor to eliminate point bounce at higher RPM. Since the Corvette engine I have has a much lower redline it may not be a problem, but the upgrade on the distributor eliminated point problems.

Any thoughts on replacing the points with an electronic module, or replacing the entire distributor? The current distributor has had the vacuum advance can removed.

TIA, Gene
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Old May 15, 2015 | 12:27 PM
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Well......some people on this forum swear by points, while others swear at them. There are several points-eliminating electronic modules you can install. Pertronix seems to be the most popular, but there are several other brands.

If your current distributor is set up for a vacuum advance, certainly get a new one and install it. If it won't take one, get a distributor that will. You definitely need one for the best street performance.
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Old May 15, 2015 | 12:34 PM
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A spark is a spark. No fancy widget will gain you anything but talk at your local cruise in. To me switching away from points is a lot of money for very little gain. Is it really hard setting your points every 6k miles or 3 years
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Old May 15, 2015 | 01:14 PM
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Install a Pertronix unit to eliminate the points. Easy mod, and you can go back to points at any time. It is not a performance mod, just electronically does what the points did. I've run a Pertronix module for 15 years and have had great service. Engine runs up to 7000 revs without a hiccup!
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Old May 15, 2015 | 01:24 PM
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Basic Pertronix installed about 20 years ago.
I pop the dist cap every year of so to look for loose things aqnd have found no problems.
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Old May 15, 2015 | 01:45 PM
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If you want to convert and your distributor is your tach drive too - then a points replacement module is the way to go to keep your tach drive functional; if your distributor is NOT your tach drive then you can buy an entire Pertronix distributor already converted with lifetime lubricated bearings. I run one in my '61...
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Old May 16, 2015 | 10:28 AM
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Thanks everybody. Sounds like Pertonix is the way to go.
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Old May 16, 2015 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 64 Silver Blue
Thanks everybody. Sounds like Pertonix is the way to go.
Yup, I have it (Igniter II) in my '67 with the tach drive distributor and also in my "67 Mustang with a 289 built like a Shelby engine. No problems with either one in more than 5 years of experience - but I do keep a set of points and condenser in both cars just in case.

You never know when a gremlin might strike - or an EMF burst like in the remake of "War of the Worlds", when Tom Cruise had to drive his original GT 350 since the Martians attack disabled all modern cars electronics!
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Old May 16, 2015 | 02:54 PM
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Default Vacuum advance

As I remember from your other thread your current distributor does not have a vacuum advance. It's not clear whether you plan to replace your points with a pertronics module or replace the entire distributor as suggested by FTF. If the prior, don't forget to add the vacuum advance.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by kingwoodvette
As I remember from your other thread your current distributor does not have a vacuum advance. It's not clear whether you plan to replace your points with a pertronics module or replace the entire distributor as suggested by FTF. If the prior, don't forget to add the vacuum advance.
That's true, there is no vacuum advance can on my distributer, but it does have a tach drive. I'm not sure which way I'll go, but with the distributor in wrong and missing parts it may be a good time to think about replacing the whole thing. First step is to find TDC, pull the distributor, and reorient it to the correct the position. I'm wondering why it was inserted the way it was in the first place. It's not that difficult to get it in correctly. I'm thinking about new spark plugs, wires, and get a fresh start with a tuneup.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 64 Silver Blue
That's true, there is no vacuum advance can on my distributer, but it does have a tach drive. I'm not sure which way I'll go, but with the distributor in wrong and missing parts it may be a good time to think about replacing the whole thing. First step is to find TDC, pull the distributor, and reorient it to the correct the position. I'm wondering why it was inserted the way it was in the first place. It's not that difficult to get it in correctly. I'm thinking about new spark plugs, wires, and get a fresh start with a tuneup.
I would pull that dizzy and buy a restored correct unit that's correctly set up and go
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Old May 17, 2015 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
I would pull that dizzy and buy a restored correct unit that's correctly set up and go
probably simpler at this point.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kingwoodvette
probably simpler at this point.
I'm thinking about trying to fix the old distributor first, getting things working first before I make any modifications. Is there anything special about the vacuum advance can? I should be able find one at the auto parts store. Looks like the control rod fits into a hole in the advance mechanism and attaches with a screw. Adding the lines looks pretty straight forward. There is a blanking plug in the Weiand manifold right behind the carb.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 64 Silver Blue
I'm thinking about trying to fix the old distributor first, getting things working first before I make any modifications. Is there anything special about the vacuum advance can? I should be able find one at the auto parts store. Looks like the control rod fits into a hole in the advance mechanism and attaches with a screw. Adding the lines looks pretty straight forward. There is a blanking plug in the Weiand manifold right behind the carb.
All your doing is throwing darts at a dart board blindfolded if you can't find someone with a SUN machine to make everything work togther.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
All your doing is throwing darts at a dart board blindfolded if you can't find someone with a SUN machine to make everything work togther.
On the other hand, he might learn a lot about his distributor when he' done.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kingwoodvette
On the other hand, he might learn a lot about his distributor when he' done.
Why would anything change adding the vacuum can? The weights and springs define the advance curve. The vacuum advance couldn't make that much difference, except maybe at idle. The distributor works ok now. I do need to pull it out to fix the orientation problem (see my thread on choke tube).

Thanks for the help and advice. I hope I'm not irritating folks with redundant questions.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 04:47 PM
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Learning is the name of the game!
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To Distributor Replacement

Old May 17, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 64 Silver Blue
Learning is the name of the game!
Read JohnZ article on Corvette Cooling. Everything has to work togther.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Read JohnZ article on Corvette Cooling. Everything has to work togther.
I understand that, but we're not starting from scratch here. The distributor is working fine, just without the vacuum can. Adding the vacuum can can't change things that much.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 64 Silver Blue
Why would anything change adding the vacuum can? The weights and springs define the advance curve. The vacuum advance couldn't make that much difference, except maybe at idle. The distributor works ok now. I do need to pull it out to fix the orientation problem (see my thread on choke tube).

Thanks for the help and advice. I hope I'm not irritating folks with redundant questions.
Certainly not irritating me; there is NO downside to adding a vacuum advance (other than originality in some rare cases). Your car will run cooler, idle better and have better economy when connected to FULL manifold vacuum on a street-driven car.

Having said that, I send my original '63 distributor to Lars for a rebuild and I was pretty grossed out at the problems he discovered including some real damage at the crossshaft gear. He fixed it up, curved it perfectly and had it back to me in a couple of weeks for what I consider a ridiculously low price for specialist work -- something to think about.

Now - Lars is a Pertronix-phobe....he'll deliver it back to you with points in it, but you can easily reinstall the electronic conversion (I did)...

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; May 17, 2015 at 06:12 PM.
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