Ignition system recommendations.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 15,554
Likes: 555
From: Eagle, Idaho
Ignition system recommendations.
What are you guys using for a distributor/ignition that may actually fit under the ignition shielding (just for looks) that would have a tach drive?
The '62 I picked up recently has a non vacuum advance single point distributor in it with a weak pair of springs on the mechanical advance below the rotor. It has a tach drive. I know it isn't set up right and it's not correct for the car, but it's a NOM so it doesn't matter. Eventually I'll swap an LS3 into it but for now I just want a driver/cruiser. Stock distributors on Ebay have dreamer pricing.
Thanks.
The '62 I picked up recently has a non vacuum advance single point distributor in it with a weak pair of springs on the mechanical advance below the rotor. It has a tach drive. I know it isn't set up right and it's not correct for the car, but it's a NOM so it doesn't matter. Eventually I'll swap an LS3 into it but for now I just want a driver/cruiser. Stock distributors on Ebay have dreamer pricing.
Thanks.
Last edited by Randy G.; May 20, 2015 at 03:46 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 17,571
Likes: 3,460
From: Fresno California
I'm in the same boat with my '61. It has a NOM and a 1959 FI distributor that works just fine, but is not 'correct' for my car. My plan is to sell it and install a much cheaper '63-'73 tach drive distributor with a vacuum advance, for better drivability/economy. And keep it points ignition, while I'm at it, as I am a fan of the old-school ignition points in all my old cars. You can do a search and get a '63-'73 style distributor already converted to HEI, or do the conversion yourself, if you want to. Not hard, and it'll fit under the hood and under the shielding.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
I'm not sure the HEI will fit under the shielding but then I haven't tried it.
I thought there were some issues using a later (C2) dizzy on a C1 but don't remember the details....I'd do some research on that... Maybe it had to do with needing a right angle tach drive adapter or tach accuracy....I'm fuzzy on the details.
I thought there were some issues using a later (C2) dizzy on a C1 but don't remember the details....I'd do some research on that... Maybe it had to do with needing a right angle tach drive adapter or tach accuracy....I'm fuzzy on the details.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 17,571
Likes: 3,460
From: Fresno California
The petronix type HEI fits under the same cap and rotor, on the same breaker plate. Simply replaces the points. So yes, it will fit under the shield. This is NOT the huge, ugly, coil-in-cap HEI used from '75 on up. As for the angle of the cable, that may or may not be an issue, depending on how the dizzy is clocked. With my FI dizzy, with the cable and the oiling tube, I only have about a 15 degree arc of adjustability. Will post on my thread when I get it running for the second time, shortly!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,151
Likes: 481
From: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
St. Jude Donor '12
The petronix type HEI fits under the same cap and rotor, on the same breaker plate. Simply replaces the points. So yes, it will fit under the shield. This is NOT the huge, ugly, coil-in-cap HEI used from '75 on up. As for the angle of the cable, that may or may not be an issue, depending on how the dizzy is clocked. With my FI dizzy, with the cable and the oiling tube, I only have about a 15 degree arc of adjustability. Will post on my thread when I get it running for the second time, shortly!
On a 340 intake, you can move it what seems like an inch before either hitting the intake runner or the coil bracket. 
PS- In before comment of "Pertronix- Unilite- all that whiz bang stuff is junk. Stick with good ole points.
Last edited by vettsplit 63; May 20, 2015 at 02:24 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
[QUOTE=vettsplit 63;1589668737
PS- In before comment of "Pertronix- Unilite- all that whiz bang stuff is junk. Stick with good ole points.[/QUOTE]
Don't hold back. Tell us what you really think!
PS- In before comment of "Pertronix- Unilite- all that whiz bang stuff is junk. Stick with good ole points.
[/QUOTE]Don't hold back. Tell us what you really think!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,151
Likes: 481
From: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
St. Jude Donor '12
Aw Mike, I'm just a smartazz. Couldn't resist. 
Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,797
Likes: 239
From: Ocean Township NJ
If a MSD 8572 tach drive distributor, (which will fit under your shielding) is cheaper than a Delco-GM tach drive with vac advance, then use it. If not, then sell yours to TI Specialties and swap it for a rebuilt unit for a 1962 Corvette with vacuum advance. Have Dave install a M & H trigger instead of the points.
The 8572 likely comes with an adjustable vacuum advance diaphragm which will have to be adjusted to your engine's idle vacuum level in order to work properly. You also have to find a suitable manifold vacuum (NOT PORTED) tap which will feed the advance canister. Vacuum advance should begin to deploy when manifold vacuum drops to NOT LESS THAN 1.5 IN-HG BELOW median idle vacuum level if you have a cam installed with high overlap. With a cam of streetable overlap, then, 2 in-hg is preferable.
The 8572 likely comes with an adjustable vacuum advance diaphragm which will have to be adjusted to your engine's idle vacuum level in order to work properly. You also have to find a suitable manifold vacuum (NOT PORTED) tap which will feed the advance canister. Vacuum advance should begin to deploy when manifold vacuum drops to NOT LESS THAN 1.5 IN-HG BELOW median idle vacuum level if you have a cam installed with high overlap. With a cam of streetable overlap, then, 2 in-hg is preferable.
Last edited by 65tripleblack; May 20, 2015 at 06:00 PM.