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Car has been sitting for nine years so I installed a new tank and associated hardware. Battery is reading 12.5 volts at the starter. I am at the carb with starting fluid and Mama is in the pilot seat. I say hit it Mama and nothing, I mean nothing happens. Amp needle goes completely west but no sounds from anything. This is a powerglide so the neutral safety switch comes to mind. I tried the car in both park and neutral still dead. I checked the voltage at the solenoid purple wire and I got 3.5 volts with ignition turned to start. Is that enough? Took the flywheel cover off and turned engine over easily. Starter is not engaged. Help I want to ride!
Nope. Not nearly enough. You need full battery voltage there. Have the battery load tested first. Many batteries can show 12-plus volts but fail a load test miserably. Test the battery properly and go from there.
Car has been sitting for nine years so I installed a new tank and associated hardware. Battery is reading 12.5 volts at the starter. I am at the carb with starting fluid and Mama is in the pilot seat. I say hit it Mama and nothing, I mean nothing happens. Amp needle goes completely west but no sounds from anything. This is a powerglide so the neutral safety switch comes to mind. I tried the car in both park and neutral still dead. I checked the voltage at the solenoid purple wire and I got 3.5 volts with ignition turned to start. Is that enough? Took the flywheel cover off and turned engine over easily. Starter is not engaged. Help I want to ride!
Earl
Hey Earl. Big draw pegging the amp needle smells like bad solenoid. Don't hold the switch in the start position very long or you will fry the purple wire circuit (NEW HARNESS TIME) Try a remote starter switch attached directly to the starter on the battery supply and the start terminal. Or just take a screwdriver and short circuit the starter terminals that way (battery lug to start lug). Yeah, I know: HORRORS. If the engine turns over with the remote switch or screwdriver method your problem lies in the neutral safety switch or the purple wire circuit. If it doesn't work then tap the solenoid with a SMALL hammer and see if it will work. If that doesn't work either pull the starter and take it to be bench tested.
Many thanks to all who replied. As it turns out GTOguy was on target. Put the battery on charge last night and she showed 13.5 volts this morning. Jumped the starter as Rich suggested (had the correct tool left over from my Dads tool box) and I got a low click. Headed out to the FLAPS with the battery and his tester showed it to be bad. Purchased a new Duralast 650CCA's. Car started up and ran nicely for 30 minutes without overheating. Started it up again after a 20 minute break and this time tried the powerglide. Moved forward about a foot and rearward the same. I guess what impressed me the most is this motor has no valve tick or unusual sounds after sitting for so long. Tires are dated in the '90's so no long trips just yet, however a trip around the block is scheduled for tomorrow.
Nowhere Man the neutral switch is bad or disconnected as I tried and she started in reverse. Gonna fix that soon.
Thanks again to all
Earl
Definitely fix the neutral safety switch - very dangerous if not working. You may find you'll need valve seals after driving some -- my '63 did after years of storage. Never hurts to do a run through on the brakes either...
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