Hi All

I am currently experiencing some starting problems with my 67 L79. When I turn the key to the START position I get a single click then nothing. If it did that all the time I would not be too unhappy…but after trying several times all of a sudden it will fire right up. Then after running and shutting it off…nothing when I go to start it…and round I go again.

I have taken a number of actions…

Read all the similar threads I could find.

Charged the battery…currently reading 12.9v.

Cleaned/tightened battery terminals/connections and body ground strap.

Measured the voltage at the S terminal (purple wire) of the solenoid. After going click the voltage read 9.4v. Oddly enough, as I held the key in the start position the voltage climbed several 10ths. When it reached just shy of 10v I turned it off and tried to start again…it fired up.

My guess is the solenoid is bad…or going bad. Interesting how it builds up the current to send to the starter. Is there anything else I should check first? Any recommendation for a replacement?

I plan to tackle this one myself. I assume the entire starter must come out first? Any tips that might make this job go more smoothly?

Thanks,

Jim

 

I'm betting like you said, 'solenoid' is gone...

 

Pulling the starter is relatively easy. Disconnect the battery, remove the wires and brace then take off the two remaining bolts.

Gary

 

If you get discouraged, YouTube has videos, otherwise
Disconnect battery!
Put car up on jack stands high enough for good movement!
Note if your starter has a shim between it and the block!
Make a small drawing or pic of the wires.
Unbolt the front brace!
Unbolt the wires! Check the integrity of the connectors at this point.
Unbolt the starter carefully, a extra set of hands might be helpful. It weighs about 20 lbs.
At this point, unless its the original starter, buy a Delco rebuilt one, not just a solenoid. I hope this helps. Dennis

 

I should of mentioned, it is the original starter. I was going to just replace the solenoid, but now that you mention a new rebuilt starter, perhaps I should just put the original on the shelf and install a new rebuilt one, as Dennis recommended.

Thoughts?

 

Why not rebuild your solenoid without buying any parts and doing yourself?

 

This is certainly the easiest and least costly (zero expense). Remove the starter and solenoid as described above. Remove the solenoid from the starter and open her up. You will find a copper/brass contact ring inside the solenoid that is most likely covered with tiny black spark marks. Every time you turn on the key the electrical contact made inside the solenoid leaves a small burn mark. Over time the disc becomes covered with these marks and there is no place left to make a good, clean contact hence the "click and nothing happens". Remove the copper/brass ring and clean/polish with a mild sand paper or wire wheel and re-install. All should be fine.

 

Thanks to all. The starter needs to come out anyway, so nothing to lose trying to rebuild the solenoid while it is on the bench. I can always revert to plan B and replace things if it does not work.

Hope to get to it this weekend.

Thanks Again.

Jim

 

I don't know if the starters are similar in design, but I had a similar problem years ago on my engine. I took the starter off and looked at the solenoid. There was a couple of copper disks that made contact and transmitted the starting current. They had some corrosion and wear on them. I cleaned and rotated the disks 180 degrees and it has worked ever since.

 

This is the answer plain and simple....happened on my car.

 

Hi All

So I am under the car getting organized to remove the starter. I notice that the front bracket is missing. See photos below.






I had not noticed it previously so it has obviously been missing for years. I guess I can live w/o it until I source a new one (I see LI Corvettes carries them). I just hope the bolt hole in the block is in good shape.

Jim

 

Jim,

I would order the bracket and use it when re-installing your starter. That thing weighs about 20 pounds and the bracket was engineered and installed for a good reason. Don't think you want that weight hanging supported only by the bell housing bolts.

 

The 67 sb starter is mounted to the block, not the bell housing

DonO

 

I stand corrected but I would still order and install the bracket for the same reasons listed.

 

Hi All

I finally got some time to repair my faulty starter solenoid. Following some of the recommendations received, I pulled out the starter, disassembled the solenoid and cleaned everything up inside. It was full of grime and the copper ring was pitted. I cleaned and sanded all down, reassembled and then added a fresh coat of semi-gloss to the entire unit. I reinstalled with new mounting hardware from LI Corvette, including the front braacket.

I went to start it and as soon as I opened the car door, I noticed the interior light did not come on and the clock was not ticking. I checked battery voltage…12.7v. I re-cleaned all battery connections. I then measured voltage @ the battery terminal on the solenoid…12.7v.

I inspected the wiring from the battery terminal on the solenoid and I found the insulation all rotted on one of the wires (Could not identify the color of insulation but I think it is the wire w/fusible link that runs to the alternator.) Upon closer examination the fifty year old wire had broken completely. See photo.

The break is in a very difficult location. The wire broke in a place where there is very little wire before the fusible link and little or no slack in the wire after the link and before the entire wire disappears into the harness.

I seek your guidance on how to tackle this repair. Also, just in case, can someone please identify the nomenclature for the fusible link in case that requires replacement.

Thanks,

Jim

 

Come on memory. The shop manual should show the wire gauge for the link. Any good parts house sell fusable links of the correct size. I replaced mine on my '67 several years ago. Solder the new one and cover it with shrink tubing. Wire up and drive on. Dennis

 

On a '67, that main feed fusible link is 14 gauge (it protects a 10-ga. wire).

 

Thanks guys. I have been studying the wiring diagrams, reading about fusible links and thanks to your replies I finally figured out the 14 ga size. I picked up a 14 ga link this evening and will hopefully attack it tomorrow.

Jim

 

But what caused the fusible link to burn open to save the circuit?

DonO

 

Hi Guys

Well I replaced the fusible link. It sure was hard soldering the connection up under the car. The connection was not pretty but it seemed sturdy under a few attempts to pull it apart. I think a crimp connector might be cleaner. I know soldering is supposedly better, but the factory connection was a crimp connector and that lasted 50 years.

In response to DonO, I inspected the broken link carefully. The insulation was rotted (not melted) and the wire was exposed to the elements. The break was clean, no evidence of melting or burning. The wire was crimped at that point and I think it might have just broke.

So I get everything hooked backed up and power is flowing. I turn the key to start…click. After three tries it starts and then restarts three times in a row. After running the car to operating temperature I turn it off and restart…click…then starts on second try. I let it sit for a couple hours then try again. It starts once in a dozen tries.

I am thinking it is time for Plan B…replace the entire starter with a Delco remanufactured starter, as recommended by Dennis. I can put the original on the shelf just as I did with the original carb.

Jim