AL vs Cast intake
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From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
AL vs Cast intake
Quick question: Can I take the cast iron intake off my recently rebuilt 327/300 hp and drop an AL intake on without having to retune? I put breakerless ignition and the rebuild was dyno'd. I'd do it for cosmetic purposes only as I didn't go with any L79 mods.
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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You will have to do something about the coolant bypass fitting in the front. Other then that it's a bolt in deal.
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Army
if its not a factory aluminum intake hood clearance will be a problem.
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Swapping the intake requires pulling the distributor, so at least part of a tune would be required (setting timing).
I'm not thinking that the difference between an iron and aluminum intake would be enough of a change to require any other tune changes, but I suppose someone more knowledgable might chime in.
I'm not thinking that the difference between an iron and aluminum intake would be enough of a change to require any other tune changes, but I suppose someone more knowledgable might chime in.
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From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
Didn't mention it's a GM L79 AL intake. I didn't think hood clearance entered into the mix. Is the sender, PCV different?
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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The L79 intake uses a chrome plated oil fill tube with the PCV attached to it. The cast iron intakes used a black painted steel oil fill tube
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From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
Swapping the intake requires pulling the distributor, so at least part of a tune would be required (setting timing).
I'm not thinking that the difference between an iron and aluminum intake would be enough of a change to require any other tune changes, but I suppose someone more knowledgable might chime in.
I'm not thinking that the difference between an iron and aluminum intake would be enough of a change to require any other tune changes, but I suppose someone more knowledgable might chime in.
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From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
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From: Greenville, Indiana
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From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
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Pilot Dan
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From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
It's a good idea to remove the distributor prior to installing the engine assembly for clearance and to avoid damage if it hits the firewall. You can reference the distributor to the engine's position by removing the cap and marking the position of the rotor. Are you intending to do this work yourself or just getting info? Pilot Dan
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Army
There are VERY few aluminum non-factory intakes that fit our cars....mostly old school Edelbrocks... I just sold one a few months back
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Army
You will HAVE to pull the distributor to swap intakes....there are two reference points to mark and then its a breeze. Mark the distributor position (normally you would mark it at the intake but the intake will be swapped); a piece of that blue tape on a valve cover in line with the vac advance hose tube fitting aligned via straightedge will do it. Then, in a similar fashion, mark where the rotor is pointing. Do NOT bump the engine over during the swap. All you have to do then is reinsert the distributor according to your marks. JohnZ has written an excellent article on the procedure....if you don't have it, or others, will post it...