Hi folks I am newbie to the forum. After looking for almost a year I pulled the trigger on 1966 Stingray big block car, just arrived last weekend. Overall the car is in pretty nice condition but there are a few things that need attention. The shift linkage allows you go shift into reverse without pulling up on the lockout T. Any idea on how to correct this?

mike

 

I wonder if your car might have a Hurst shifter (which has no lockout) that has been converted by having the shift lever replaced with an OEM-looking Muncie type shift lever. That lockout is non-functional.

Ray

 

Unscrew the shifter ball and lift out the t handle. There should be a long rod that is attached to the t that drops down in the reverse lockout slot and prevents the lever from going far enough left to engage reverse. Maybe that has been removed or has broken.
If you move the lever to the left as if you're going to reverse and turn it loose, if it "pops" back to the center, you probably have the Hurst with aftermarket simulated C2 shifter. If you do, when you unscrew the ball, you won't have a lock out rod.

 

Here's a picture JohnZ posted showing the bottom of that lockout rod that's attached to the t handle. It drops down in that hole you can see to prevent the shifter from going to reverse. (with a Muncie shifter)

 

Thanks guys... I bet it's a broken rod. I don't recall the shifter springing back to the center after releasing it. The car is very original so hopefully it is the correct muncie shifter.

One other thing i ran into is my clutch peddle is at it's max adjustment and I have over 1.75" of play. Could this be an incorrect clutch fork? Is there another at the peddle that would shorten the clutch play?

 

there is only one adjustment, the rod under the master cylinder. Have you checked to see if the nut that attaches the Z bar to the frame isn't loose?

 

The Z bar is solid there is no play, I'm just out of threaded bar to take up the extra play.

 

Mike - First off, welcome to the Corvette Forum. Lots of helpful members here, all you have to do is ask the question. It would help if your filled out your location as there might be other members nearby that can offer help. Regarding your reverse lockout handle, if it is a stock Muncie shifter, as 65GGvert already suggested, unscrew the shifter ball and remove it and the spring underneath. Then lift out that 'T' handle reverse lockout. If it's a factory item, that reverse lockout 'rod' is much thicker at the bottom than the upper 2/3ds. That upper segment should look like this pic.

A few times, I was driving my 66 coupe around and noticed the same thing, it was getting too damned easy to inadvertently shift into reverse when I really was looking for first gear. There is a small hole near the top of most of the factory lockouts where you'll find a set screw. It needs to be tight to stop the thin lockout rod from riding 'up' and doing it's job of keeping you out of reverse until you want it. In my case, as you'll see in the closeup pic, I got a bit too heavy handed when I tightened it the second time around and split the casting so the rod was no longer secure. With no easy way to fix it, I bought a repro. Found they are not a plug and play item either but I'll hold off on recommendations for them until you figure out if your lockout rod is just loose and in need of some tightening.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

 

Which end of the threaded portion of the pedal pushrod is the swivel and two nuts at - toward the firewall, or at the front?

 

Thanks Mike, I'll take a look tonight and see if it's loose.

JohnZ - the pushrod is all the way towards the front, away from the firewall.

 

JohnZ - to clairify the swivel is all the way towards the front of the pushrod, away from the firewall...

 

Then you have all the adjustment in the world available - as the clutch wears, you move the swivel REARWARD, not forward.

 

I was hoping to increase the distance from the floor when releasing the clutch. Right now you have to push the clutch almost to the floor to engage thus releasing happens quickly.

 

Forget that - the only thing that matters (and the only thing you can adjust for) is the pedal free play at the top end of travel, from the pedal resting on its rubber bumper to the point where you feel resistance from the throwout bearing when depressing the pedal; shoot for 1-1/4". When you get that, the other thing will take care of itself (unless the clutch and linkage is really worn). Inadequate pedal free play results in fried throwout bearings.

 

You should have a thin nut behind that swivel. Adjust the nut so the swivel is all the way to the end of the pushrod and maybe just a little further if you have to get your free play right.

I can't tell you what is going on with your clutch. I can tell you this. My '65 still has the original clutch and all the original clutch linkage in it. To my knowledge, the clutch free play has been adjusted one time since new and the swivel is two threads from the forward end of the push rod.

My linkage does not have a nut on either side of the swivel, just on the back side to control free play. I think that was the factory configuration. Other cars I've seen, different years have a thin nut on either side of the swivel.

I know there's a free play spec at the top of travel. That's too much for me on my manual shift cars. I don't like pedals that release right on the floor either.

 

There are two nuts consuming about 0.5" of thread at the rod tip. I could remove one and extend it out further but was worried about the rod swivel disengaging from the rod. Is that something that could happen?

 

Mine never has. If the clutch pedal is all the way up and the swivel won't fall off the rod, how is it going to get off there? I guess if the bottom rod fell off some way, it could come loose but that way, you're out of a clutch even with a nut on each side of the swivel.

I don't know what '66 cars used but '65 and earlier cars used an adjustment nut about half that thick or less.

PS. I have seen pictures of clutch linkage on brand new midyears that showed the swivel all the way to the end of the pushrod just like my '65. Sorry, I can't give you a picture reference.

The fore/aft positioning of the body on the frame could make a big difference along with a lot of other variations that could affect it.

 

You should have two nuts - one on either side of the swivel - one sets the adjustment, the other locks it. Some cars had two thin nuts, some had the thicker ones in the photo below, some were mixed - doesn't matter, as long as the adjustment is done correctly.

 

That's logical and not arguing but I've seen them like your picture and I've seen them like I described. Mine has had one nut since at least 1972 when I bought the car and it hasn't moved.

But if the OP has the thick nuts, even changing to a thin one at the front would raise his pedal quite a bit. Maybe 1/2"=3/4"?

I would adjust for best fit and be happy.

 

The reverse lockout turned out to be a loose/stripped set screw allowing the rod to push up out of place. Working great now although I may eventually have to buy a new T bar with fresh set screw threads. Thanks everyone for the great feedback!