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Been rehabbing this ol' 66 for the past few years (reliability, leaks, interior, body and finally paint). It's a 66 with a 67 BB hood painted in the original Nassau Blue. Under the hood is a 1970 SB out of a C-10.
This winter I'd like to put something under the hood that is as awesome as the paint job. Looking for an original mid year 327 that I can build up but anything is possible. Also A/C is next year!
Most shops around here want to sell me a 383 stroker motor (350) with HP in the upper 400s. I'm hearing the 350 is a great reliable and versatile performance motor. Also crate motors have been suggested as an alternative.
I don't have much experience in older motors and this car is being built for show and go (drivability is #1) so I come to you, the corvette faithful for advice. What should I do and where can I go to get it done? Any suggestions on shops either around northern Northern Virginia or Daytona, Florida area would help too.
TIA
John
Do you know anything about the C-10 engine that is in the car?
It may be a good high nickel 4-bolt main 350, with truck compression pistons and heads. If it is a good 350 block, a 383 stroker is an easy build for a good machine shop. Good for an easy 400hp/tq at 5000 rpm, with the right heads and cam.
Look at the accessories at the front of the heads, do the alternator and pump brackets bolt to the heads or the manifolds? Plan how the A/C will mount. The bracket mounting will determine if you have a 60s look (No bolt holes on the heads) or a 70s look (bracket bolts at the end of the heads).
Rear end gear ratio (?), and do you like it on long drives?
This aspect should drive the engine build, the speed and rpm you want for your driving. 4:11 gears are usually better with a higher rpm 350 or a well built 383 that can take rpm, 3:55 gears with the 383 and lower rpm. If you want to keep the close ratio M21 you need to be comfortable with cruising at a higher rpm (4:11), or slipping the clutch on starts (3:55). You can learn to hate both ends of the gear ratio range, high 4000 rpm on the highway if you drive 80 mph everywhere for hours, and the lower rpm takeoff slipping the clutch if you drive hills with stop signs a lot. Sound at idle may be great for 30 seconds at the parking lot, and you hate the 3 hour drive and stop signs with the wrong gearing.
The larger engine can tolerate a more missmatched cam with low rpm gearing (the choppy idle sound, without losing all low rpm torque). You may never rev the engine to the cams best rpm range, but still want the rough idle, and the larger engine can soften the low rpm problems.
I would at least check out the GM Performance motors. You can get a very nice 350 with lots of horsepower and it comes with everything including a great warranty. Shop around for prices, as the price does vary with different dealers. If you want to make it look like a 327, there are some good posts on here that show what others have done.
Doc
That's one idea I've looked into. I'm running 350 now with the 327 look (the only tell is the breather cap on one of my scripted valve covers) but have a line on a real 66 327. Rebuilt, machined, ported heads, hot cam and headers. Price n/a at this time but more than my original budget. Probably my best choice investment wise though. And they're light. The build would be at Summit Point Raceway machine shop. I was surprised too because their web site shows nothing but Porsches.
Thinking of your budget and the mentioned 1970 350 in your car.
I think that 1970 350 was rated 300 HP with a four barrel carb.
I think they had a forged crankshaft so the bones are pretty good.
Should have flat top pistons.
Maybe add a set of AFR Heads and a good camshaft, Intake and Carb. Gain 75 HP and see if you like it. All done for $2,500. A 350 built well is a potent engine.
If your existing 350 is worn out and burning oil it would need a short block rebuild on top of the above but that would add no more than $1,200 with Forged Pistons.
Edelbrock sells a kit to take a bone stock 350 and make 430 HP.
The kit uses a bone stock short block but Edelbrock provides a matched Cam, Heads, Intake and Carb.
I have a friend that owns a Machine Shop in Spokane, he read the Edelbrock add and claimed BS. He ordered in one of the kits and ran it on his dyno. Guess what, it made 435 HP. He learned from that and upgraded his kits.
Nothing wrong with a 350 for a power plant.
Glide you're so in luck. I just happen to have a 3858174 block in my garage that's just begging to find a new home in your Corvette.
Explain please. I'm assuming that this is a mid year 327? 66 maybe? What is the reason it is not in a car? How much is left? Any issues? Engine builder I found doesn't know if he has one but said he can get one. I don't know how much of his build price is for the block so if you can PM me a price I'll consider your generous offer.
Ever shipped a block? Guess it can be done or does this require a road trip.
The most cost-efficient bang for the buck and the easiest install is to go with a 383. Cheap to build (you can use your current 350 block), reliable, powerful, well-mannered, and it will look correct with all the factory Corvette parts bolted to it. A 383 is just a 350 with a longer stroke crankshaft. I have one in my '61 that was built many years ago, and it looks exactly like the 283 that's supposed to be in the car, but with a LOT more 'oomph'. Personal opinion, but I am not interested in LS based engines in these older vintage Corvettes.
The most cost-efficient bang for the buck and the easiest install is to go with a 383. Cheap to build (you can use your current 350 block), reliable, powerful, well-mannered, and it will look correct with all the factory Corvette parts bolted to it. A 383 is just a 350 with a longer stroke crankshaft. I have one in my '61 that was built many years ago, and it looks exactly like the 283 that's supposed to be in the car, but with a LOT more 'oomph'. Personal opinion, but I am not interested in LS based engines in these older vintage Corvettes.
I am about to do the exact same and shelf my numbers matching motor for someone in the future that wants to make the car a show queen. Just need a left side dip stick block. I have a set of fuelie heads and will use my intake, water pump....so it looks like my 365 hp motor. Looking for around 400 hp and will be plenty happy. On my 2016 calendar.
What with the hood and all, you will always wish you had put a 427 or 454 in it. The hydraulic cam versions are easy to drive and tune. Some searching and bargaining should allow you to get one for close to your budget.
From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
Originally Posted by glide
Explain please. I'm assuming that this is a mid year 327? 66 maybe? What is the reason it is not in a car? How much is left? Any issues? Engine builder I found doesn't know if he has one but said he can get one. I don't know how much of his build price is for the block so if you can PM me a price I'll consider your generous offer.
Ever shipped a block? Guess it can be done or does this require a road trip.
Thanks!
John
Like I said the block is a 3858174 casting number which would be correct for your '66 Corvette. The block is currently apart of a completely assembled engine that has late model heads and an incorrect intake that likely hasn't run since the late '70s. It was in my '64 when I got it but I had no intentions of ever using it. I purchased a 3782870 engine for my car and am in the beginnings of rebuilding it. I have no idea about whether or not the engine would run.
I've never shipped an engine and I'm not sure I care to but I've got a cherry picker that can set the purdy little engine right in the back of your or one of your buddy's pickup truck.
Since it doesn't have the original motor, you can do anything.
If you want period looks, more cubes in a gen 1 SB is better than less cubes.
The 327 is very nicer RPM motor, if you like to hear a motor wind to 7K plus RPM. Perfect motor for 4.11 or 4.56 gears with a M21, but not so good if you do freeway driving a lot.
For just pain old putting around, a 383 is probably your cheapest version for more Tq and HP without going to the extra expense of a 400+ CI SB, and you can run taller gears for highway use.
A modern hyd roller cam will do wonders in any motor vs an old style flat tappet cam, as you can get better breathing without added lift, massage the heads accordingly for better flow..
Doug
I like the way the 327 winds up it part of the
nostalgic way the corvette runs. Had both the 350 and went back to the old school 327 love that wind up.
What with the hood and all, you will always wish you had put a 427 or 454 in it. The hydraulic cam versions are easy to drive and tune. Some searching and bargaining should allow you to get one for close to your budget.
You are so right although I don't know if driveline will support a BB. I don't drive that hard (don't know if its my age or the crappy motor that's in there now). I will research, research, research. Interesting link! Do you have any experience with them? I always thought a BB was out of my price range for sure. Peeps telling me $10k min.
Big blocks run hot, heat up the inside of the car, and the car will not handle or corner as well due to the increased weight over the front wheels. They are also thirsty and not as long lived as the little small block between overhauls. They are harder on the clutch, transmission, drive shafts, and rear end due to the torque increase. Don't get me wrong: I love bib block 'vettes....but for your situation, my vote is for a small block in your car. Much easier, cheaper, cleaner with a better end result.
Big blocks run hot, heat up the inside of the car, and the car will not handle or corner as well due to the increased weight over the front wheels. They are also thirsty and not as long lived as the little small block between overhauls. They are harder on the clutch, transmission, drive shafts, and rear end due to the torque increase. Don't get me wrong: I love bib block 'vettes....but for your situation, my vote is for a small block in your car. Much easier, cheaper, cleaner with a better end result.
A good radiator and John Z's advice on the right vacuum advance can should deal with the heat. Handling is only an issue if you are running gymkhanas. If MPG is an issue, better you drive a Prius instead of any C2
As for durability, I have over 100,000 miles on the car in my signature without any drivetrain issues. The engine did get over hauled when the cam gear wore out-------------I don't know if the small block's timing gears are any better. And the load on the drivetrain is much more related to the rear tire size than the engine.
My 64 had a 396 in it when I bought. I love the torque. I have a friend with a 327 in his and to get his car to launch good, you had to start the rev's at 4000. Mine spins the tires without the revving and keeps spinning them till most of the way through 4th gear with 370 gears in the back. I love the torque. ( I know I wrote it twice. lol )
I'm in the middle of a total body off and want a 496. Especially after reading Vizard's book.
In servicing thousands of Chevrolet engines over the past 40 years, I have consistently seen the small block outlast the big block. It's simply a more durable and efficient design. The big blocks typically had valve issues prior to 100k miles, and were in need of overhaul at about 100k. Not so with the small blocks. Even back then, 200k was not uncommon. I love the big blocks, and they are brutes, and a blast to drive. I'd like to have a 396 or 427 '65 or '66 'Vette. But if I only could have one Corvette, it would be a small block car. Over all, it's simply a much better balanced machine. The OP will decide what fits his bill.
I like the way the 327 winds up it part of the 
