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I have a new DeWitts radiator and will install it (and a new water pump) in my '66 convertible soon. I researched the archives to see if removing the hood was necessary. Only found a couple threads addressing this and it looks like it isn't necessary, but some recommend it. What are the real advantages for removal? and the drawbacks?
With hood off, If you don't have someone to help, you, yourself can install from center of car and not have to walk side to side to reach things...or you can get someone to help with install...
If you remove hood make sure you MARK the location of hinges...
I have a new DeWitts radiator and will install it (and a new water pump) in my '66 convertible soon. I researched the archives to see if removing the hood was necessary. Only found a couple threads addressing this and it looks like it isn't necessary, but some recommend it. What are the real advantages for removal? and the drawbacks?
I have changed C2 radiators and shrouds several times never removed the hood. Plenty of room but requires careful movements, plan out the direction of removal, cover everything (fenders etc) very well with multiple layers of towels. The hood off allows a much more open and easier to access front but not required. IMHO adding a step that isn't mandatory always means the possibility that the added step can lead to a complication! For example, helped a friend once with radiator/shroud install on his 65 (big block hood). The hood had been taken off prior and was leaning up against a wall protected with sheets. Another helper backed away from the car to get something, hit hood with his leg, bam down it went on the floor, significant paint damage to the top of the hood. If you decide to take the hood off anyway, mark very accurately the hinge outlines to get hood back in exact place where it was, and have plenty of help, and good protection for it - blankets, etc. Good luck
I just R & R'ed my radiator with a new DeWitt's stacked plate last spring. Didn't remove the hood but, as 66jack said, did need a helper.
If you choose to leave the hood on here's some suggestions:
1. Use something to prop the hood up a bit higher than the hood support. I just use a 2X2 piece of wood stock I had laying around (a 2X4 would work as well) notched it where it goes against the cowl lip, then cut it to length. The hood should lift another 3-4 inches and will allow easier access to the shroud bolts. Also helps when working on headlight motors, horns, wiring, etc.
CAUTION: Be sure to put something (a small bolt works) through one of the holes in the support just in case the board should slip out!
2. Install the shroud and radiator as a unit which, should be done whether the hood is removed or not.
3. Put some coolant on the inside of the lower hose and install it (but don't clamp yet) on the radiator prior to radiator installation.
4. This is optional but, worked very well for me regarding paint protection. Prior to covering fenders and any other areas with towels, blankets or covers I used Cling Wrap (see my thread, "Don't want scratched paint? Cling Wrap it!") and didn't have one scratch when done.
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; Nov 9, 2015 at 03:08 PM.
Thanks for the info and recommendations. When I first bought the car in 2000, I pulled the engine and radiator to clean/paint the engine bay and engine. The engine ran great, but pretty much every gasket leaked, so I had the engine on a stand, cleaned and decreased it, painted the block and accessory brackets and put in all new gaskets. The radiator seemed ok at that time so I just flushed it and reinstalled it, but 15 yrs later it needs replacement. I marked the hood bracket location on the hood and they are still visible today, but I think I will leave the hood on at least for now. I can always remove it if I feel I need more room.
I installed my new DeWitts radiator and Coffman support with the hood on, by myself, with no damage or issues, and I'm pretty old. Just take your time and be careful.
One thing I didn't see mentioned is to remove your old water pump first - it will give you a lot more room. Install your new pump last.
I installed my new DeWitts radiator and Coffman support with the hood on, by myself, with no damage or issues, and I'm pretty old. Just take your time and be careful.
One thing I didn't see mentioned is to remove your old water pump first - it will give you a lot more room. Install your new pump last.
Good point Mike. I already assumed the OP would think of that but sometimes it never hurts to point out the obvious.
From: going faster miles an hour...with the radio on in browns mills new jersey
The easiest way to gain some more headroom with the hood on is to open the hood until the 'safety hole' on the inside part of the hood support is exposed above the outer part of the hood support - then go ahead and use your safety bolt/pin/D-ring.
I did a new radiator and shroud on my A/C '66 with the hood on by myself this summer. It would had been easier with hood off to get to the 4 bolts because of the condenser and dryer being in the way. I managed with a long extension and a swivel socket to get the lower 2 bolts thru the grille. The upper 2 were easier and I did lock my hinge with a pin in the hole
Good point Mike. I already assumed the OP would think of that but sometimes it never hurts to point out the obvious.
Gary
Yep, had already thought of that one, but never hurts to point out the little things as it may not be obvious to everyone. appreciate all the responses and good info.
I know this is an old post but I'm just going through the process of putting my '67 Coupe back together and found this thread after scratching my head about how to get the fan shroud in after radiator was already in. My engine is the L79. I'm planning on using a helper and installing both radiator & shroud at the same time as this seems like the way to go. After looking through my AIM I think I understand the reason. AIM shows 4 different part numbers for the shroud ... Top, RHS, LHS and Ring. According to AIM it looks like during actual assembly it's installed in pieces and then bonded together at the points labeled 4 5 BOND "E", with production bonding material.
Yes, the bonding was done at St Louis and unless there has been some damage to it, your shroud will be one piece. The shroud attaches to the radiator support not the radiator, so there probably isn't much advantage to installing the shroud and radiator together. As said in the original post, doing the installation with the water pump removed will make a world of difference.
Thanks Mike67nv for the additional info.. One of the bonds is broken on my shroud so I'll be making that repair first and I can see with the water pump removed that should make the install even easier.
AIM shows 4 different part numbers for the shroud ... Top, RHS, LHS and Ring. According to AIM it looks like during actual assembly it's installed in pieces and then bonded together at the points labeled 4 5 BOND "E", with production bonding material.
It was bonded together from the four separate easy-to-ship pieces in an off-line table-top bonding fixture, and installed as a single unit. It was supplied that way for a major transportation savings vs. shipping it to St. Louis as one piece.
JohnZ ... I know you by name only and that you have an amazing knowledge. How would you have come to know that detail? For me, the AIM doesn't indicate that operation. Thank you for posting your response.
C2 Radiator Install
