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67 Headlight Bulb Switch

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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 02:40 PM
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Default 67 Headlight Bulb Switch

Has anyone come out with a repo headlight switch that does not heat up and cut off the headlights after several minutes of use? Or is there a solution to the repo ones? This happens with both the original T3 bulbs, but much faster with the halogen bulbs.
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 03:24 PM
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I'm somewhat electrically challenged, but I think you could have another problem in your headlight wiring. I have not heard of this issue before. Dennis
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 03:35 PM
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With Dennis you better start tracing wires and look for a short or something before you burn the car down.
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 04:18 PM
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There was an article on the repo switches at least a year back documenting the internal circuit breakers as being somewhat weak and kicking out, resulting in the headlights going out until the CB cooled off. I've checked firewall connections, cleaned the terminals at the bulbs, checked and cleaned terminals on the dimmer switch, tried a spare dimmer switch. All wiring is new. Headlights work fine with the original switch, just the dash dimmer part is no good due to wire being burned into. Problem only occurs with the repo switch.
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 04:55 PM
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Interesting issue I didn't know about. Do you know the source of these questionable switches? Dennis
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 06:59 PM
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LED headlights. For each headlight bucket (both bulbs lit on high beam) the ones I have use 4.25 amps with high beams on.

From what I recall, a standard low beam bulb is 55w, which comes out to 4.583 amps per bulb.

FWIW...

That said, have you checked out the other electrical items (switches, grounds, etc.)? How many amps are being consumed?



-- Joe
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 07:46 PM
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It's a fairly common problem with repro switches. Your choices are:

1.find an oem switch
2.keep trying different vendors until you find one that works.
3.Run the headlights directly from the 12v on the horn relay (or run wires from battery) and control them by the headlight switch by inserting a relay between the switch and the 12v supply you choose. Doing this will make your lights brighter and will cut the current going through the headlight switch by a lot. I mean A LOT.
4. Do the mod to make your lights roll over and come on via the headlight switch, which also eliminates the rollover switch. That involves changing out the stock motors and wiring. A kit is available to do that.
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 09:16 PM
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There are a few to choose from:


.
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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The one I got came from LICS, but according to one source on the NCRS site, they all come from CC. Cannot verify this, though. Buns, are any of those you posted American made? I tried yesterday to locate a NOS switch on e-bay with no luck.
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 01:30 PM
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Joe, not sure how many amps are being pulled. I'll try later on this PM to see.
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 01:44 PM
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65 GGvert, do you have some type of rough wiring diagram showing the configuration of wire and relay from the 12v horn relay to the light switch? Not exactly sure how this would be done and I'm sure others would be interested. TIA Al
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 59vetteman
65 GGvert, do you have some type of rough wiring diagram showing the configuration of wire and relay from the 12v horn relay to the light switch? Not exactly sure how this would be done and I'm sure others would be interested. TIA Al
Sent you a pm with instructions and included this link with a diagram in post #5.
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 06:30 PM
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Used original 131 switch.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-Hea...VWpPxH&vxp=mtr
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 06:39 PM
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65GGvert, got it and just ordered 2 each for my 59 and 67. Again, thanks! Al
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 06:43 PM
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Thanks Donald, I'll put a bid in on it
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