anyone have any tips or advice on replacing the fuel pump on a 65 327? carter carb, any ideas would be great, thank you!!

 

Use a rag and pair of vise grips on the rubber line at pump..Rap the rag on line the use the vise grips to shut off fuel from tank...

On front of engine nest to fuel pump is bolt...take that out, "don't lose it'...put in a longer bolt...this hold pump rod in place...

take off hard lines at pump

take out the bolts that hold on pump..

Clean surface on block where pump was...

Reverse procedure...

MAKE SURE YOU PUT IN THE SHORT BOLT THAT I TOLD YOU NOT TO LOSE....

 

thank you!!

 

If the engine is on TDC, #1 firing position (GM camshaft), the pump rod actuating lobe will be in it's most favorable position for re-installation of new pump. That is, the rod will be at it's up-most -- hold it there with the temporary 'long' 3/-16 hex bolt & your fight against the spring loaded fuel pump lever will be minimal.

I don't find this one of the more 'pleasant' tasks; heater hoses & lower radiator hose make access a little difficult. (I seem to cut my hands on exhaust french locks & ignition shielding brackets). Sometimes working from under with car elevated & RF wheel removed helps. Careful with the new gasket, as they slide around a lot while indexing the pump on the mounting plate.

 

I use Permatex #2 on each side of the fuel pump gasket...some may disagree.
I've always done this and always will...

 

Old68

Attached is a file on a procedure outlined by 62Jeff (Jeff Cline), Coves4Me (Mark Brennan) and me some time back. It's for '58-'62 but the same techniques applied to my '65.

Hope this helps.

Dave Z

 

wow, thanks a bunch, this is very kind of you, much appreciated

 

If you are interested in rebuilding the pump, this months Muscle Machine mag has an article about rebuilding a Pontiac fuel pump. It is essentially the same pump. Lots of great pictures. Jerry

 

This post is timely as my fuel pump seems to be leaking. At the risk of hi-jacking the thread, are there any tips about working around an A/C compressor on a '66 SBC? Going in from the bottom seems like a better option than pulling the compressor.
- Jeff

 

I did my 63 fuel pump swap last month completely from underneath the car. A little fiddly but it went fine. Some say removing the PS front tire provides easier access but I can't confirm that...

 

Remove the RF tire and do the job from below.

 

I always contact cement the new gasket to the pump, then ATV on the motor side. It never moves around when you're installing it that way.
Always roll the motor over by hand to get the pushrod up all the way .....makes it much easier. Use the bolt or heavy grease to hold up the rod when you install. Don't overtighten the little bolts on the plate that attach to the block.....they break easily.

 

"Use the bolt of heavy grease to hold up the rod when you install."
Kermudgeon, could you expand on this bit of advice - I don't follow what you are saying.
- Jeff

 

What he is saying is, instead of using the 'bolt' on front of block to hold fuel pump 'rod'...

Put a good glob of heavy grease on fuel pump rod to hold in place when you install pump...the grease holds the rod up out of the way...

 

Sorry, typo, I meant or. With the engine cold and the engine in the right position for the rod to be in the up position, if you smear it with heavy grease and slide it up, it will stay up while you bolt the pump on.

 

I just replaced the pump, and bearing grease did the trick to hold up the pump rod. My son who is learning about machine tolerances wondered how tight the rod sits in the block. It is a 0.499 rod in a 0.500 hole. Tight enough that the grease and suction holds it in.

The long bolt in the hole on the face of the block is better, no risk of the rod sliding out as you remove the pump.

If the rod does slip: remove the plate, push the rod up with grease or add the longer bolt to hold it up. Reinstall the plate and pump.

With the new and old pump on the bench, before installation, check the inlet and outlet for same size and thread type (5/16 inverted flare, 3/8 inverted flair, or similar size pipe thread). It's always better to find surprises on the bench, rather than under the car.

Good Luck.

 

As usual, the Forum is a wealth of knowledge.
- Jeff

 

- I did this like 4 times last month, so have recent experience. First of all, don't use a higher pressure pump, as that may overflow the carburetor. Also make sure the treads are 1/4", i by mistake bought a 3/8" and had to buy reducers
- if your inlet to the pump is rubber, you can put in a bolt and clamp it to stop fuel. if not, you may consider clamping a rubber hose with a bolt in it. if you have hard line between carb and pump, remove the carb side too
- remove the coil-distributor wire (so that engine doesnt run) and crank the engine very shortly, open distributor cap to see if the cap is pointing somewhere near 1st cylinder, if not repeat the cranks until it is (TBC). This will ease installation and spring pressure
- remove the short bolt shown here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=138417, have longer 3/8" bolt handy
- remove the old pump, most probably rod will fall down into cover plate, try to move it up with our finger up, if you can screw the longer bolt in slowly until you feel that rod is not falling down anymore. Don't over tighten, you may damage the rod
- make sure you rotate the bottom of the pump using the screws, so that its aligned the same way with old pump. Also make a trial to see if you cleared the frame. TRansfer the fittings from old pump to new one
- if you cannot move the rod up, you will need to remove the cover plate too, have a gasket and gasket sealer handy. Its no big deal, just need a new gasket and good surface cleaning
- install the new pump, you should feel little pressure if the engine is on TBC, when distance from pump to engine is around 1/8"; but it will not be too much or difficult
- connect the fittings, dont use teflon tape but sealer resistant to gasoline

you should be done

 

how do I determine where 1st cylinder is under the distributer cap? TDC

 

?? "how do I determine where 1st cylinder is under the distributer cap? TDC" ??

Line up your harmonic balancer's timing mark with index tab on timing cover. Pull distributor cap & note if rotor is pointing on/near #1 cylinder -- it's the first tower clockwise from point adjustment window toward the vacuum advance can. If you find rotor is at #6 position, do one more turn of crankshaft & you'll be at #1.