Deck lid weatherstrip replacement.
#1
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Deck lid weatherstrip replacement.
After the deck lid spring job, I replaced the deck lid weatherstrip. It's somewhat time consuming when removing all the old hardened glue. I used GOOP OFF to soften up the glue. It may take a couple applications, but it does work. Next I used a 2-3 inch wire wheel to get all the remaining stuff off. This was the time consuming part. I found the install much easier as anyone would, but I think a couple of tricks might be useful. Blue Painters tape and 3-M glue, (black or yellow) are used. The actual length of the w/s might vary from one manufacturer to another, so find the center of the w/s and mark it (See blue tape w/black marker)) and then the center of the deck lid. Now is the trial fit.Lay out the w/s starting in the center, tape it in place, then mark each side the same way. Next, tape each end. You now have it fitted. Now remove the w/s. Take pieces of blue tape and attach them to the underside of the deck lid as shown in the pic. Now you are ready for the install. FIRST!..I put 3-M W/S Adhesive (3-4 min set up time) down only on the long back section first. Position the w/s starting in the center, use the blue tape all along to hold the w/s against the glue and let it set up 30/60 min. before you stretch each side around the corners. Now put the glue on the corners and sides the same way. This will help as you actually walk the w/s around each side to meet the side mark and the very end. Tape the end in place, then use the blue tape to hold the w/s against the glue. I hope this helps as we maintain the cars. Dennis
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#2
Race Director
Glad that you got yours on and it worked out for you.
Actually..the weatherstrip glue is a contact type....so applying it on both surfaces....the weatherstrip itself and also the deck lid.....allowing ti to tack up....which is important. And taking into account on the two surfaces of the deck lid and the weatherstrip where it also need to be applied and not just down the crease on the deck lid where the weatherstrip goes Allow it to tack up...do not forget to do this. When you set the weather strip in place...( after allowing it to tack up) it will stick like crazy...and the need for tape is greatly reduced.
Keep in mind you are not plastering the glue thick on both surfaces.
And it is then the 'trick' of knowing when to pull/stretch the weatherstrip ( if needed) so it does not cause the curve around the corner of the deck lid to release or not set correctly. I always stretch the weather strip on the straight-a-ways ( if needed)....so the curves can be applied under no stretching.
Just another way of doing it....if a person is looking for an option on not having to wait long periods of time to get it on.
I also wipe the weatherstrip with a soaked paper towel with acetone and then IMMEDIATELY DRY to remove any possibility of any mold release silicone or wax products when it was made.
DUB
Actually..the weatherstrip glue is a contact type....so applying it on both surfaces....the weatherstrip itself and also the deck lid.....allowing ti to tack up....which is important. And taking into account on the two surfaces of the deck lid and the weatherstrip where it also need to be applied and not just down the crease on the deck lid where the weatherstrip goes Allow it to tack up...do not forget to do this. When you set the weather strip in place...( after allowing it to tack up) it will stick like crazy...and the need for tape is greatly reduced.
Keep in mind you are not plastering the glue thick on both surfaces.
And it is then the 'trick' of knowing when to pull/stretch the weatherstrip ( if needed) so it does not cause the curve around the corner of the deck lid to release or not set correctly. I always stretch the weather strip on the straight-a-ways ( if needed)....so the curves can be applied under no stretching.
Just another way of doing it....if a person is looking for an option on not having to wait long periods of time to get it on.
I also wipe the weatherstrip with a soaked paper towel with acetone and then IMMEDIATELY DRY to remove any possibility of any mold release silicone or wax products when it was made.
DUB
#3
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Dub, I appreciate you review. The box for the glue had a big label over the directions, (ZIP stock bar code) but I found out set up time was 4 min. That concerned me so I did it in stages. I don't think I would want to try and wrangle w/s with glue on each surface. Yes it could be done, my shad tree technique did work. I put enough glue in the crevice to allowed some to wick round the w/s. The tape held it securely. I checked the w/s earlier today, holding nicely. I'll be able to look myself in the mirror if.....! Dennis
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#4
Drifting
Good timing for me. This is one of the jobs I wanted to get done this weekend. My deck lid and car are freshly painted and assembled so I want to do it while mounted and hinged open (of course). Having only done the engine hood this one will be tricky. Will follow DUBs advice and cover everything else with tape and plastic. This glue gets stringy and drips while applying in my limited experience. I may need a helper.
#5
Le Mans Master
Nice write up Dennis!
Whatever it's worth I read on the CF a lot of guys are using hardware store Dap contact cement and plumbers (cheap) acid brushes for weatherstrip.
I did my PS door main with it, and a little tape, in under an hour and I can say I MUCH prefer it to every time I used 3M.
I know the 3M stuff has been used successfully for years but I wanted to pay a good idea forward.
Benton
Whatever it's worth I read on the CF a lot of guys are using hardware store Dap contact cement and plumbers (cheap) acid brushes for weatherstrip.
I did my PS door main with it, and a little tape, in under an hour and I can say I MUCH prefer it to every time I used 3M.
I know the 3M stuff has been used successfully for years but I wanted to pay a good idea forward.
Benton
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Good timing for me. This is one of the jobs I wanted to get done this weekend. My deck lid and car are freshly painted and assembled so I want to do it while mounted and hinged open (of course). Having only done the engine hood this one will be tricky. Will follow DUBs advice and cover everything else with tape and plastic. This glue gets stringy and drips while applying in my limited experience. I may need a helper.
#7
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Good timing for me. This is one of the jobs I wanted to get done this weekend. My deck lid and car are freshly painted and assembled so I want to do it while mounted and hinged open (of course). Having only done the engine hood this one will be tricky. Will follow DUBs advice and cover everything else with tape and plastic. This glue gets stringy and drips while applying in my limited experience. I may need a helper.
Nice write up Dennis!
Whatever it's worth I read on the CF a lot of guys are using hardware store Dap contact cement and plumbers (cheap) acid brushes for weatherstrip.
I did my PS door main with it, and a little tape, in under an hour and I can say I MUCH prefer it to every time I used 3M.
I know the 3M stuff has been used successfully for years but I wanted to pay a good idea forward.
Benton
Whatever it's worth I read on the CF a lot of guys are using hardware store Dap contact cement and plumbers (cheap) acid brushes for weatherstrip.
I did my PS door main with it, and a little tape, in under an hour and I can say I MUCH prefer it to every time I used 3M.
I know the 3M stuff has been used successfully for years but I wanted to pay a good idea forward.
Benton
#8
Drifting
Well, this is true. I plan to start in the middle and do the upside down part first with a helper, then move in either direction to the ends. Wife has other plans for me this morning, and it's cold with fresh snow outside so we will see if I can get to it.
#9
Le Mans Master
This is exactly what I was told to look for in older posts, for posterity Dennis. I. Love. It.
Did the door main with the door on the car no less, with no helper and no difficulty. Bear in mind the door main didn't need stretched.
<br >
Did the door main with the door on the car no less, with no helper and no difficulty. Bear in mind the door main didn't need stretched.
<br >
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#10
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Benton, I saw that same glue at the hardware store. Dennis
#11
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I use the liquid contact cement also...and I also use the black 3M adhesive also.
And if anything that I can suggest it for those of you who are doing this...and this is your 'maiden voyage' in doing it. Do yourself a BIG FAVOR and waste a little product and test it on something that you do not care about. Some of the old weatherstrip or paper or plastic...just get familiar with it.
What this will do is allow you to know how much to apply...and...how much surface area you can cover and get it to work. Because if it is 90 degrees outside....it will react quite differently than a guy who is working in 50 degree air.
I recently showed an owner of a 1967 427 I painted and I was applying the hood weatherstrip on his big block hood...and the extra weatherstrip that I cut off due to being too long. I had some of the contact cement on...and he was amazed that when he folded the weatherstrip back onto itself and squeezed the cemented areas together....he literally could not pull them apart without damaging the weatherstrip....because he was asking how good the glue I was using was.
And not that my views on this matter or not....BUT...if it is a convertible deck lid. I prefer doing it off the car and upside down ...AND YES......I know.....When I have freshly painted paint on it...I do not want the outer surface setting on anything if at all possible. SO....I force cure the paint several times with my infra-red heater....and then when I feel good about it....I do it....so I am not 'dilly-dallying' around and I get it done as quickly as possible. AND YES....I have installed it when the deck lid is also mounted. I just prefer to do it off the car.
I can apply the weatherstrips on the hood when it is installed with no issues. On the 1963-1967 I prefer to apply the door main weatherstrip with the door being off...BUT...I have done it with it on but it is NO picnic.
A person would be surprised that if they need to stretch the weatherstrip...and they do the stretching in/on a straight-away...and they allow the glue to tack up...the weatherstrip will not shrink back once they put it on. BUT also keep in mind and I will write it. The length of adhesive I apply when I am doing this is rather long...at least a foot if not more. So apply a dab of glue and expecting it to hold stretched weatherstrip will not work.
DUB
And if anything that I can suggest it for those of you who are doing this...and this is your 'maiden voyage' in doing it. Do yourself a BIG FAVOR and waste a little product and test it on something that you do not care about. Some of the old weatherstrip or paper or plastic...just get familiar with it.
What this will do is allow you to know how much to apply...and...how much surface area you can cover and get it to work. Because if it is 90 degrees outside....it will react quite differently than a guy who is working in 50 degree air.
I recently showed an owner of a 1967 427 I painted and I was applying the hood weatherstrip on his big block hood...and the extra weatherstrip that I cut off due to being too long. I had some of the contact cement on...and he was amazed that when he folded the weatherstrip back onto itself and squeezed the cemented areas together....he literally could not pull them apart without damaging the weatherstrip....because he was asking how good the glue I was using was.
And not that my views on this matter or not....BUT...if it is a convertible deck lid. I prefer doing it off the car and upside down ...AND YES......I know.....When I have freshly painted paint on it...I do not want the outer surface setting on anything if at all possible. SO....I force cure the paint several times with my infra-red heater....and then when I feel good about it....I do it....so I am not 'dilly-dallying' around and I get it done as quickly as possible. AND YES....I have installed it when the deck lid is also mounted. I just prefer to do it off the car.
I can apply the weatherstrips on the hood when it is installed with no issues. On the 1963-1967 I prefer to apply the door main weatherstrip with the door being off...BUT...I have done it with it on but it is NO picnic.
A person would be surprised that if they need to stretch the weatherstrip...and they do the stretching in/on a straight-away...and they allow the glue to tack up...the weatherstrip will not shrink back once they put it on. BUT also keep in mind and I will write it. The length of adhesive I apply when I am doing this is rather long...at least a foot if not more. So apply a dab of glue and expecting it to hold stretched weatherstrip will not work.
DUB
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#12
Dennis, I found this very helpful post. I have my decklid off the car. My question is the positioning of the two ends of the weatherstrip...do you have a pic of the end placement?
Thank you.
Monte
Thank you.
Monte
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Monte, I have attached one pic of the end weatherstrip. Hope this helps. Dennis
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I put it on the full length, but in increments as 1spacover stated. Dennis