1964 327-300HP, manual trans.

Having read the Aug 2015 thread titled "New here! 64 with no spark" I followed the all the suggestions and I'm still having an issue.
To begin, the motor wouldn't start. I have no current at the coil. So, I jumped a wire from the + side of battery to the + side of coil. The motor started. Some members said that meant the ignition switch or resister was bad (FYI there are NO POINTS on this dizzy. It has an Accel MSD Points Eliminator kit installed). I disconnected the switch (which is new) and jumped the red hot lead and the black and pink wire (see pic)


. That in theory acts as if the switch is in the "on" position. Still, I'm getting no current to the coil or the ballast on the firewall.


I checked the neutral safety switch connectors (for auto trans only) to insure they were connected, and they were. I went to the starter to check the connections there. All correct.









ALL harnesses are brand new "lectric limited". So what else could I be checking to get current to the coil to run this motor?
Thanks, as always, for any assistance.

 

There are two (2) wires going to the + side of the coil; 1) provides 9V with the key in the on position & 2) provides 12V with the key in the start position.

Disconnect both wires

You need to verify that you have 9-12V on one wire with the key in the on position.

Second wire will provide 12V with the key in the start position.

When you turn the key from run to start you will loose voltage on the on side.

 

I have a slightly different wire configuration due to the "points eliminator" kit. I get 9V from the black and pink wires when cranking however, as I stated above, I have no current to the coil in the 'on' position so how can I check it?

 

with the switch in the run position do you have 12v at the ballest?

 

I have NO power anywhere in the engine compartment. The car will crank but won't stay running without power in the 'on' position. It's difficult to trace the wires because they have a wrapping around them making it impossible to see. Even when I jumped the ignition wires under the dash, I still get no current.

According to the service manual,the battery connects to the starter and there's 2 leads coming off the solenoid. One goes to the ignition switch and one goes to the coil. With the key in the "on" position, should I get current coming from either of those leads?

 

With the key in the on position you will not have voltage to the R or S wires on the starter.

When you say you have no power anywhere in the engine compartment that would lead me to the firewall connectors to make sure they were not corroded and connected property.

Do you have a wiring diagram?

 

Yes to both. All the harness are brand new and I removed and reconnected the firewall harness to the fuse block twice already.

 

This morning I took a tone locator to the wires to check continuity. They all passed, as did the ignition switch. Still can't understand why there's no current to the coil.

 

Make sure the ballast resistor is wired correctly, the top two wire terminal goes to the coil positive, double check things there.

The run wire from the ignition switch goes to the ballast resistor PLUS to the lower fuse where it feeds the temp and fuel gauge plus the parking brake teltale bulb so make sure these are wired correctly and work.

Get under the dash and check that fuse with a test light, this may give you a indication weather to work forward or backward.

 

I emailed my phone number.

 

The "lectric limited" harness comes with a wiring diagram. I wired it according to their schematic. My fuel gauge and parking brake are not yet wired and I can't tell about the temp gauge as I didn't run the engine long enough to heat it up because they say not to run it long with the coil "jumped" from the battery.
I did check all the fuse connections and they're all lighting up on both side of the fuses. My amp gauge also moves when the key is in the 'on' position.

 

In that case I would chech the resistance in the wire from the ballast to the ignition switch plug to see if it's broke. Gotta start troubleshooting somewhere, take a good look at the ignition switch plug. When you checked the fuse for power check the clip that holds the fuse as well as the fuse.

 

Thanks. One thing I noticed yesterday was that the ignition switch has a tab on the back marked ground but the connector does not have a ground wire in it. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. That's the way the harness came to me when new.

 

What voltage are you reading with key in run right here?

 

Lets start from the beginning here;

1) You say the motor wont start because you have no power at the coil but if you jumped a wire from the + side of battery to the + side of coil the motor starts.

This statement alone tells me you have 12V coming into the Ignition Switch at the Red wire. If not the starter motor would not turn over with the Ignition Switch.

2) Some members said that meant the ignition switch or resister was bad (FYI there are NO POINTS on this dizzy. It has an Accel MSD Points Eliminator kit installed). I disconnected the switch (which is new) and jumped the red hot lead and the black and pink wire (see pic)

That Pink and Black wire runs from the ignition switch through the fire wall and provides 12V at the ballast resistor. I'm assuming when you jumped the Red wire and black and pink wire you had 12V at the ballast resistor??????

The next step would have been to verify you had 9V at the + side of the coil thus simulating the ignition switch being in the on or run position??????

3) I have a slightly different wire configuration due to the "points eliminator" kit. I get 9V from the black and pink wires when cranking however, as I stated above, I have no current to the coil in the 'on' position so how can I check it?

I can't speak to the "points eliminator" kit or how it's wired and what voltage it needs to operate but when cranking the engine with the ignition switch in the start position you should see 12V not 9V. When you turn the key to the start position is sends 12V to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid which engages the starter and also sends 12V through the "R" terminal straight to the + side of the coil. This is referred to the 12V start circuit.

4) I have NO power anywhere in the engine compartment.

This one has me a little confused what to you mean by NO power anywhere? Is this just on the ignition harness or both the ignition harness and headlamp harness?

It sounds like your problem might be in the wiring connections for this "points eliminator" kit but that aside I would verify the power coming from the ignition switch through the fire wall to the ballast resistor is correct and the 12V start circuit is correct.

Hope this helps, we will figure this out.

 

.zero.

 

I have my Dr. Rebuild schematic diagram for '63 out and I bet '64 is the same. (Everybody has one of these right?). Its this simple....12V comes off the horn relay buss through the fat red wire from the bulkhead connector that feeds the main 12V to the ignition switch. It also feeds the headlight motor circuit breaker. You can check for 12V at the headlight motor circuit breaker at the top of the driver's side kick panel and that will tell you all the stuff forward in the car is fine (e.g. bulkhead connector).

You can then check for 12V at the red wire at the ignition switch connector - if you don't have that something is wrong between the bulkhead connector and ignition switch.

If there is 12V at that connector then with the ignition switch in START then it merely remains to see there is 12V at the switch side of the ballast resistor (pink wire from ignition switch) and that 12V arrives at the + side of the ignition coil.

When you ran the jumper wire from battery + to ignition coil + you 'hotwired' the car to bypass ALL of the above electrical magic -- that's all.

Soooo.....somewhere in what I described above the same 12V you forced to the ignition coil with the jumper is NOT arriving at the coil through the designed ignition circuit.

The failure point is somewhere along the path described above...there are no fuses involved in any of the above.

If all of that yields 12V at the ballast resistor you can then jumper across that resistor to see if the car starts/runs. THEN we can trouble shoot the "RUN" circuit...which involves other wiring.

 

My kit wanted me to bypass the ballast resister .Just saying

 

Now what voltage to you have here with the key in the run position? If zero, you don't have voltage from the pink on the ignition. If 12v, you have an open ballast resistor.

 

Put a ohm meter on that wire and make sure you have continuity, this is a straight shot from the Ign switch to the ballast.