PistolGrip

I have a '62 Corvette that I bought in 1967. It is pretty much all original -250 HP, 4-spd. I rebuilt the engine about 20 years ago & put in a little bigger cam & headers. For the past 20-30 years, I've had minor problems with the stock WCFB carb. I'll set the idle (after the engine has warmed up) at around 800 where it seems 'happy' & it will drive & idle just fine. Then unpredictably, it will just stall when I come to a stop. It will start right back up & run just fine until I stop again. If I set the idle up to prevent this, then later on after I shut it off & start it, the idle is way too high (1,200-1,400) - then I set it back down until..... I had the carb rebuilt a few years ago by a WCFB specialist & it helped a little, but now it is doing the same thing. Sometimes it won't do it at all. I disconnected the choke a few years ago & that actually seemed to help a little, but I still have the same problem. What I'd like to try is replacing my WCFB with an Edelbrock carb (or Holley) that would bolt onto my intake & also accept my stock air cleaner - not to mention allowing the hood to close. I'd rather not use an adapter, but would do so if necessary - while still being able to close my hood. Has anyone done this before? What carb did you use? What air cleaner base did you use?
Thanks.

Frankie the Fink

The WCFB bore size is unique so - to swap carbs, you are talking an intake manifold swap right off (I don't know of an adapter to mate an Edelbrock to a WCFB manifold and the height would be an issue even if there is one) and then an aftermarket air cleaner to get hood clearance.

Much easier to fix your WCFB. I don't know what 'expert' you used but sounds like you may have a sticking throttle plate or linkage (fast idle) and maybe floats set wrong. The WCFBs have small bowls and if the floats aren't precisely centered they can hang up and cause your stalling problems.

tbarb

My suggestion is to work on the stock carburetor and fix the problem and save the $$.

Make sure the timing and dwell is right and get the engine hot then adjust the emulsion screws approx the same left/right to get the best idle speed/vacuum.
You will get it worked out with some research.

PistolGrip

Thanks for the feedback. I'll give it another shot. What really confuses me is that sometimes it works just great & sometimes not. I have better luck when the same problem repeats itself in some predictable pattern.

Frankie the Fink

That is pretty much the case with binding linkage or sticking floats - they'll exhibit intermittent problems and drive you crazy

GTOguy

Also, quickly verify that the mechanical advance weights in the distributor are not sticking. Sticking weights will give you intermittent fast idle problems.

Pilot Dan

First question to ask should be, What's the shape of your 50+ year old fuel tank and lines ? If your tank is original, then this may be your problem :



What you see comes from the tank and is so fine it passes through the sock and filter and eventually plugs up the carb.
Pilot Dan

MOXIE62

The WCFB is a neat little carburetor and fairly easy to install a kit. I would purchase a kit from Daytona and in the kit is their new design float valves. As mention check for floats rubbing against the walls of the carb and causing hang up.