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I have two guys helping me. One is a friend that comes to my garage. The other is my mechanic. He doesn't make house calls. I have an apt with him on 5/14. hope I can drive there
I have two guys helping me. One is a friend that comes to my garage. The other is my mechanic. He doesn't make house calls. I have an apt with him on 5/14. hope I can drive there
If the one friend is the guy with the 'fancy tester' reading 16V off the battery.....well.....
If you don't have electrical power then I don't know how you'll drive the car over. As I've stated, your classic car insurance or AAA should cover a rollback to recover the car and take it somewhere for service
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Looking at the 63 Wiring harness diagram.( Doc ReBuild..O So EZ) in color . The starter voltage runs thru the Neutral/Safety connector socket and plug which should be some where behind the distb on the wiring harness.
The feed wires are Violet in color. You can check their to see if any voltage is making it to that point as the come apart for connection for an Auto Tranny. From that point the Violet wire goes to the starter Along with and next to Red/Black wires and large ring terminal connector supplying Voltage from the Horn relay.
As stated With a test light you can fix most any electrical problems you may encounter. Your LFAPS should have one cheap.
Hope you find the bug
Last edited by Viet Nam Vett; May 3, 2016 at 09:40 AM.
I was changing the plugs in my 63 last week and the plug wrench touched the battery and arced. I have absolutely no power anywhere.
A friend came over with some type of fancy tester. After about an hour he felt that it was the starter. He then changed his mind and said it was the ignition switch. He got some weird readings while testing. He was getting power from the frame and the battery was putting out 16 volts.
I installed the ignition switch today and initially I had power. When I turned the key I got a click and then back to no power. All fuses look ok.
Please help.
I too agree that I would first install a known good battery and see if that remedies the problem. If it does and you want to try and save the optima battery take a look at this on UTube (
). The key to restoring a battery that is 10.5v or below is to put it in parallel with a known good battery and use a digital maintenance charger (I perfer CTEK brand chargers) This video shows the process, but again I'm partial to CTEK because they are automatic and will not cook the battery. Once charge goes above 10.5 volts remove known good battery and continue charging your Opima.
Last edited by Bobonthis; May 3, 2016 at 10:51 AM.
Or buy a NAPA Legends or AC/Delco regular battery and you won't have to worry about magic charging techniques, which color top it has or if it was one of the crappy ones made in Mexico for a while.
I may have found the problem. I was trying to remove the starter and take it to be bench tested. The post where the cable is attached spins in place. I don't think it's supposed to do that. When it arced, it could have broke the post. That may not be my only problem, but I have to replace the starter before I can continue. I hope I can secure the post with pliers.
I may have found the problem. I was trying to remove the starter and take it to be bench tested. The post where the cable is attached spins in place. I don't think it's supposed to do that. When it arced, it could have broke the post. That may not be my only problem, but I have to replace the starter before I can continue. I hope I can secure the post with pliers.
You don't need a new starter. You need either a new stud or a a new solenoid cap or both.
If the loose solenoid parts are your issue then you had it before you shorted out the battery. Sounds like you had a bunch of things going on at once...
I am hoping that when I arced the battery,that the surge damaged the
starter. I realize that it might not be my only issue. I won't know til I replace it. If it still won't start, then I probably will have to get it towed to my mechanic.
I am hoping that when I arced the battery,that the surge damaged the
starter. I realize that it might not be my only issue. I won't know til I replace it. If it still won't start, then I probably will have to get it towed to my mechanic.
Unlikely but not impossible I guess. If things occurred as you described you shorted the battery directly to ground -- current follows the path of least resistance so physics says your issue stayed local to the battery area. Over-current might 'weld' metal parts together; it sure isn't gonna loosen 'em up.
Unlikely but not impossible I guess. If things occurred as you described you shorted the battery directly to ground -- current follows the path of least resistance so physics says your issue stayed local to the battery area. Over-current might 'weld' metal parts together; it sure isn't gonna loosen 'em up.
Anyway, I hope the starter repairs fix you up
as the starter has an external relay, and everything passes through the relay; the relay could be toast and the starter be OK
Bill
The nightmare is finally over. I had the car towed to my mechanic yesterday. It didn't take him too long to get it started. The problem was the negative battery cable. That was one of the first things
that I checked. It looked OK. I also removed the cable and cleaned the connections, but I guess something inside the cable was toasted.
Car runs fine although I may need a shim for my starter. It didn't have one before, but it seems to have a whine when it cranks.
I read this whole post and was going through my mind as what the problem could be...then I get to the end here...and I'm thinking it was kind of like a movie with a bad ending.
I am hoping that when I arced the battery,that the surge damaged the
starter.
Originally Posted by ren
The problem was the negative battery cable. That was one of the first things
that I checked. It looked OK. I also removed the cable and cleaned the connections, but I guess something inside the cable was toasted.
I would say that when the battery shorted it toasted a ground cable that was about to fail anyway due to corrosion.
Checking the wiring was mentioned quite a few times here. You can't always look and determine if a wire is okay.
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