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Replacing Fuel Pump

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Old May 10, 2016 | 07:18 PM
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Default Replacing Fuel Pump

So.. it's been a long while since I posted anything. Rarely drive the 65, but hoping things change and I get to drive it more often. The fuel pump has had a leak.. not sure where from but the bottom has fuel on it and it streams at times on start up.

So I'm gonna replace it but had a couple of quick questions.. first off, is there any easy way to control the fuel in the lines rather than have it go all over? And I've read the pushrod can be a PITA at times. Is there any trick to keeping this a relatively easy job?
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Old May 10, 2016 | 07:32 PM
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If you have the orginal pump you can rebuild it
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Old May 10, 2016 | 07:56 PM
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There is a ton of info on here about dealing with the push rod - including removing a front bolt and replacing it with a longer one temporarily to jam the push rod up; some use heavy grease to hold the rod up. Many put the engine at TDC to make things easier.

You can clamp the rubber line that connects the gas tank to the 'hard' fuel line at the PS rear of the car using these; which is what I use. You don't have to clamp down on the line like there's no tomorrow -- just enough to pinch off the gas flow.
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Old May 10, 2016 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
There is a ton of info on here about dealing with the push rod - including removing a front bolt and replacing it with a longer one temporarily to jam the push rod up; some use heavy grease to hold the rod up. Many put the engine at TDC to make things easier.

You can clamp the rubber line that connects the gas tank to the 'hard' fuel line at the PS rear of the car using these; which is what I use. You don't have to clamp down on the line like there's no tomorrow -- just enough to pinch off the gas flow.
:agree: Vice Grips (don't clamp too tight) or disconnect the fuel line from the tank quickly and stuff a 3/8" bolt in it and clamp it. You are going to loose fuel, so be prepared, Pin the rod with a 3/8" bolt as per prior threads - finger tight.
Before doing anything, compare the new pump with the old. If not the same, figure out what you are going to do to make it fit (bend the lines or take it back).
If you have and original you are going to rebuild, plug everything until you get it rebuilt or do it yourself. Something as simple as a fuel pump can be a PIA.
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Old May 10, 2016 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by R66
:agree: Vice Grips (don't clamp too tight) or disconnect the fuel line from the tank quickly and stuff a 3/8" bolt in it and clamp it. You are going to loose fuel, so be prepared, Pin the rod with a 3/8" bolt as per prior threads - finger tight.
Before doing anything, compare the new pump with the old. If not the same, figure out what you are going to do to make it fit (bend the lines or take it back).
If you have and original you are going to rebuild, plug everything until you get it rebuilt or do it yourself. Something as simple as a fuel pump can be a PIA.

All good advice thanks.. I forget the pump on it. It's not orig. The motor is a 480/480 383 stroker I had built a while back. Put it in.. did everything myself. It's just been too long...
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Old May 11, 2016 | 03:09 PM
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Default check the orientation on the fittings

Originally Posted by Freakinhobo
All good advice thanks.. I forget the pump on it. It's not orig. The motor is a 480/480 383 stroker I had built a while back. Put it in.. did everything myself. It's just been too long...

I replaced mine only to find the fittings were clocked in a different direction, total PIA , check beforehand, mine was a direct replacement from napa, I only noticed after I installed it and had to tweak the lines and fittings
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Old May 11, 2016 | 03:24 PM
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I use a vice grip very similar to what Frankie posted above. Works like a champ.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 08:18 PM
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So I bought my motor from Smeding Performance back in the day.. they swear the pump I have is a Holly 12-834. However, the reviews I read on it say it's complete garbage, and the inlet/outlet don't look the same. On mine, they are almost 180 degrees out and on the 12-834 they look to be next to each other. I really want a bolt in pump without having to rework metal fuel lines.. any suggestions?
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Old May 12, 2016 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Freakinhobo
I really want a bolt in pump without having to rework metal fuel lines.. any suggestions?
Strangely, a Google search seems to turn up two different pumps under 2 different part numbers for the 65 small block.

Do a Google search on "6415616", which should be the correct pump for a '65 small block according to my circa 1976 parts book. If your lines don't match the orientation of the threaded holes, then they may have been changed.

Here's what it looks like:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....426&cc=1322941

Here's one from GM: http://www.newgmparts.com/oe-gm/6415616

AC 4657 also shows up online as being correct, but that looks like a casting number to me, not a valid part number:
http://www.corvettepartsworldwide.co...57_p/37218.htm
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Old May 12, 2016 | 07:06 PM
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I used the grease method with no problems.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by waynec
Strangely, a Google search seems to turn up two different pumps under 2 different part numbers for the 65 small block.

Do a Google search on "6415616", which should be the correct pump for a '65 small block according to my circa 1976 parts book. If your lines don't match the orientation of the threaded holes, then they may have been changed.

Here's what it looks like:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....426&cc=1322941

Here's one from GM: http://www.newgmparts.com/oe-gm/6415616

AC 4657 also shows up online as being correct, but that looks like a casting number to me, not a valid part number:
http://www.corvettepartsworldwide.co...57_p/37218.htm
The pump on it is not orig..it's what I was told my smeding a Holley 12-834 80gph pump. The inlet and outlet are 180 degrees out from each other. So I'm basically looking for the same specs on a pump with inlet and outlet 180 out from each other.
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