I am looking to buy a manual on E-bay to familiar myself with my fuelinjection. There is a manual that says it is for 58-61 and I own a 62. Is there any differences in the carburators?

I just purchased the ST-12 manual and am waiting to receive it in the mail. If the ST-12 has info on the fuelinjection then I will not need to purchase the above manual.

Thanks

John

 

There is a reprint of the Chevrolet fuel injection manual available which covers the 62 in detail. I think these cost about $10. The manual has a bit of information not contained in the ST12, but the ST12 has quite a bit of info, particularily on rebuilding. Check the NCRS bookstore.

 

Call or write Rochester Products. They were nice enough to send my manual free....................of course, that was back in 1975. They may have changed since then.

 

JOHN!!!!!!!!
There is a boatload of reprinted FI information out there. As mentioned, check with NCRS, the Corvette aftermarket mail order sources, etc. Very likely you will be able to buy from them cheaper than you can buy ANYTHING on ebay!
Also, if you need parts or service, John DeGregory is probably the best in the country (I also rebuild FI units, but John is still the best).

 

Thanks Tom,

Can you give John DeGregory's Email or number to me.

I will be in the need of some part and also have a couple of questions.

Thanks

John

 

I have had good luck with parts from John, and Jack Podell rebuilt my unit and I have nothing but good things to say about his work and service.

John DeGregory
724-832-3786

Jack Podell
Ph: 574-232-6430 Fax: 574-234-8632
E-mail: podellfi@aol.com

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Jordan

 

Thanks Jordan...

 

johndegreg@aol.com

 

Bella D - I just scanned & sent you the schematic for a '62 Fuel Injection and the Specifications for '57-'62 F.I.'s from:
Rochester Fuel Injection, a Vette Vues Magazine Reprint/33 pages total
I sent ONLY 2 pages. Hope it helps.
Cruz

 

Yo Cruzmeister,

Thanks for the schematic. I located the line that is leaking and it appears that it is my fuel line that attaches to the fuel distributor. I am thinking about changing it myself. I already put a wrench on with no success. My concern is do I take the whole unit off inorder not to crimp the brass fuel lines underneath the unit. I am still waiting for my ST-12 manual and will not touch this until I have solid info on the best way to approach it. I could take it to a local corvette mech. but that takes all the fun out of owning this car. If you have any thoughts please pipe in.

Thanks

John

 

That particular line is sealed with an o-ring at the fuel meter.

 

Can the O rings be purchased or do I need the line? I have not taken it off yet but assume the O ring is cracked and not the hose.


Thanks

John

 

You can get the o-ring at any commercial hydraulic or bearing store. Some auto parts stores also have o-ring selections. Just need to take the old one for a sample. Use a little vaseline or silicone grease on the o-ring when you install it and the line. Resist the temptation to overtighten the fitting as the o-ring does the sealing here. :cheers:

 

Just to make sure we're talking about the same line: are you looking at the 1/4" diameter copper tubing that connects the fuel meter to the spider? You've used terms like "hose" and "fuel distributor" that don't seem to fit this application.

 

Thanks for the help and sorry for the improper terminology. I am still waiting on my manual that I am sure will help with calling the parts by there proper name.

I just got done taking the 1/4 copper fuel line off and while unscrewing the bolt that holds it on I was able to get it all the way off and when I tried to pull on it to get the O-ring out to replace I felt a lot of resistance and got nervous that I may break the spider below.

After screwing it back in out of curiousity I fired the beast up and checked to see if my leak was still there. It was but not visible only after touching under the bolt could I feel a very small amount of gasoline. Before, it was a constant rapid drip.

Point is I still have the leak and wonder if I should attempt to unbolt the bottom of the hose. Seems kind of procarious with all the other small hoses attached to it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

By the way, I received my main weatherstripping and noticed that inorder to replace it I should try to raise the door by the handle side around 2mm. Is there an easy adjustment? The previous owner would just slam the door so now some of the paint on the body side is chipping off and the rubber weatherstripping is shot right above the handle.

I know the gas leak should be fixed first but I am so excited to get this car to the place it should be.

Thanks alot,

John

 

John -

Let me try to be real clear. I'm all for folks trying to fix their own cars. But, you need to get the fuel leak fixed properly or you could lose your Corvette to an engine fire. Maybe you ought to get some help with this particular problem. It is not a good idea to learn about fuel injection repairs by experimenting with a gas leak.

Most of the pieces to repair an FI unit are available as reproductions. Many of these reproductions are perfectly good for everyday use. Some, however, are not good enough to throw at a cat. All of the pieces are expensive whether they work properly or not. Know the reputation of your source before you order anything.

The fuel spider is the round fitting with eight small tubes coming out like the spokes on a wheel. Each tube runs to a nozzle. The fuel meter is the metal fuel bowl on the passenger side of the plenum. The 1/4" copper fuel line that runs from the fuel meter to the spider has an o-ring at the fuel meter end. The spider end of that same line does not have an o-ring. It is sealed with a copper compression fitting. If the tubing is leaking at the spider end, you will probably have to replace the tubing. If you damage the spider fitting seat or the tiny soldered connections to the nozzle tubing, you are going to be out about $250 for a replacement spider.

I really suggest you get help from someone with Corvette fuel injection experience. I don't mean any disrespect by this. Sometimes it's just best to pay for expert help when the consequences of failure are scarey. You don't do your own dental work, do you?


[Modified by jerrybramlett, 7:28 PM 9/11/2002]

 

YEP! Ditto to Jerry if you have no FI experience. Over the years, there have been some serious FI Vette fires. Some went clear to the ground.
Scare ya?--------------------------------------- It should!

 

Good advice but I was sure hopeful that I could have fixed the problem myself. It seems to me that I know where the leak is coming from all I need to know is the proper sequence in disassembling.

The leak is not from the "spider" but from the top of the copper fuel line.

Thanks again

John

 

What ever you do allways use line wrenches on any of the copper or steel fuel lines. The injection is easier to work on removed from the sub manifold. Also be aware that fuel injections can hydraulic and bend rods, break bellhousings and starter noses if they are not driven. You should invest in a electric solenoid installed under the dog house and wired to your choke to prevent engine damage. :yesnod:

 

I agree with all. Get some professional help here as we do not want the car to burn to the ground.
There are three people here in Southern California that are also very good. None of them advertise as they are so busy without.

One is Chris Wickersham in Monrovia. 626-359-4498 is his work number Monday thru Friday. Works by himself. Also has lots of NOS parts and a test motor to run the unit on before sending back to you.

Doug Prince in the San Fernando valley at 818-348-6698. He also has a small shop and works alone.

Finally Jeff Reade in Culver City, one of the countrys formost restorers. Jeff works alone and will do minor repair to full body off restorations.

All of the above are experts in fuel injection restoration. I have done my own units over the years, but have called on all three of these guys to "help" when I have gotton stuck. Especially when I need parts. I have seen Chris rebuild spiders which not to many people want to tackle.

The units themselves are great once you get them dialed in. I got over two motors use and 200000 miles out of a 61 fuel unit without an overhaul. Finally the high pressure pump started leaking, so it was time to renew the whole unit. Buy a spare drive cable. You will not find one at your local NAPA store.
good luck.
Jim