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Ben sitting three years, Want to try running it

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Old 08-13-2016, 05:24 PM
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Joemac8
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Default Ben sitting three years, Want to try running it

I have not run my 67 327/350 in three years. Parked it in the garage in Northern Wisconsin with a fresh oil change, fresh filters, a full tank of Premium with Stabil and a trickle charger, with the intention of starting it in the spring. The engine was a fresh rebuild and a fresh carb rebuild. Health said otherwise.

Now I'm feeling better and will head up to the garage next week with the intention of starting it. I ordered a fresh Optima Red Top battery (The one in it was at least 7 years old when parked). Amazon promised delivery on Wednesday.

OK, what should I do so as to not mess something up? Please talk very S L O W L Y, as the brain doesn't always connect with the memory on the first pull.

Last edited by Joemac8; 08-13-2016 at 05:25 PM.
Old 08-13-2016, 05:34 PM
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Bluestripe67
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My first question to you is. Did the engine get broken in properly BEFORE you put the car up and how many miles were put on it? If not, this resurrection effort from the sleep will be very important too the life of the engine and different then just your usual wakeup process. Dennis
Old 08-13-2016, 05:36 PM
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leif.anderson93
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Originally Posted by Joemac8
I have not run my 67 327/350 in three years. Parked it in the garage in Northern Wisconsin with a fresh oil change, fresh filters, a full tank of Premium with Stabil and a trickle charger, with the intention of starting it in the spring. The engine was a fresh rebuild and a fresh carb rebuild. Health said otherwise.

Now I'm feeling better and will head up to the garage next week with the intention of starting it. I ordered a fresh Optima Red Top battery (The one in it was at least 7 years old when parked). Amazon promised delivery on Wednesday.

OK, what should I do so as to not mess something up? Please talk very S L O W L Y, as the brain doesn't always connect with the memory on the first pull.
Welcome back to the enjoyment of your C2...glad to hear the health issues are out of the way. Climate controlled garage?? How fresh an engine rebuild...had it at least been broken in (500-1000 miles) before she was parked?? I don't think you can do any harm attempting to start it after a 3 year slumber...it's not the starting, it's the running I would be concerned about. If she were mine, I would change the oil and filter (again) before attempting the first start-up. There may be carb (gunking) issues and other sundry things you'll find once she fires off. Best of luck and hope you get to enjoy her for a long, long time
P.S. Bluestripe and I must have been typing at the same time

Last edited by leif.anderson93; 08-13-2016 at 05:39 PM.
Old 08-13-2016, 05:43 PM
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THREE YEARS and NOT CRANKED.....okay then...

I would HAVE TO pull the distributor and PRIME the engine so I got oil up to all the rocker arms....then I would feel better about starting it so I did not run into REALLY DRY start due to the oil has long since drained out of many serious components.

I would also be possibly suspect of the integrity of the coolant. I would have to check and see if it is good....

www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHTM3dvpD1M

DUB

Last edited by DUB; 08-13-2016 at 05:48 PM.
Old 08-13-2016, 06:07 PM
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If it were me I would drain the gas out and re-fill.
Cheap insurance at $45
Three years is pretty old gas.

Manually turning the oil pump to get some oil in the top of the motor is a good idea too.

Good luck with it!
Old 08-13-2016, 06:16 PM
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Joemac8
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It was in a frozen garage. The rebuild has at most 300 miles on it.

How can I get oil up so that it doesn't start really dry? (Please be specific as I don't want to mess this up)


Originally Posted by Bluestripe67
My first question to you is. Did the engine get broken in properly BEFORE you put the car up and how many miles were put on it? If not, this resurrection effort from the sleep will be very important too the life of the engine and different then just your usual wakeup process. Dennis
Old 08-13-2016, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Joemac8
It was in a frozen garage. The rebuild has at most 300 miles on it.

How can I get oil up so that it doesn't start really dry? (Please be specific as I don't want to mess this up)
As Dub said you need to remove the distributor and manually spin the oil pump. Here is a video describing the operation:

And do drain the gas.. Old gas (even if it burns) can gum up the carb, intake, and the intake valves.. Ask me how I know!

Last edited by SDVette; 08-13-2016 at 06:29 PM.
Old 08-13-2016, 06:38 PM
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Couldn't he pull the coil wire and spin the starter in short burst for a little without over heating the starter to get the oil up to the top.
Old 08-13-2016, 07:08 PM
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When I attempt to start a long setting engine I remove the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with a mixture of 50% transmission fluid and 50% marvel mystery oil. Let it set for a day or two, remove the coil wire and spin the engine for s short time. Remember that the mixture will be sprayed out of the engine so put some catch rags all around the blow out areas. I do this several times over the next several weeks. I then make sure I give it a good final spin and replace the plugs. I did this to my 68 big block that set for 15 years but let the mixture set for a longer time. Started great, runs great without smoking for the past year.
Old 08-13-2016, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SDVette
As Dub said you need to remove the distributor and manually spin the oil pump. Here is a video describing the operation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPSPwLMlLB0

And do drain the gas.. Old gas (even if it burns) can gum up the carb, intake, and the intake valves.. Ask me how I know!
If I remove the distributor to spin the oil pump, does it go back in exactly the same place?

Also, what is the easiest way to drain the gas?

Last edited by Joemac8; 08-13-2016 at 08:56 PM.
Old 08-13-2016, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Couldn't he pull the coil wire and spin the starter in short burst for a little without over heating the starter to get the oil up to the top.
No, the whole idea is to build oil pressure and get it circulated throughout the engine WITHOUT spinning the crank.
Old 08-13-2016, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by USMC 0802
No, the whole idea is to build oil pressure and get it circulated throughout the engine WITHOUT spinning the crank.
I ordered an oil pump primer and a siphon pump. Hopefully fresh oil and gas with a new battery and I will be driving come Wednesday or Thursday.
Old 08-13-2016, 09:15 PM
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Cool, good luck and have fun!
Old 08-13-2016, 09:16 PM
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I am concerned for you attempting this task WITHOUT an experienced person helping. You really need a second person there. Can you get someone too help you? Dennis
Old 08-13-2016, 09:22 PM
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^^^Ditto^^^
Old 08-13-2016, 09:23 PM
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Here's what you need to pre-oil the engine before turning it over:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...olet/year/1967

Cheap insurance at about $20.

The distributor goes back in just as you pulled it out. You'll need a timing light to fine tune the timing after you fire it up. When you pull the distributor, look down the hole to see the position of the oil pump drive slot. You'll want to use a long screwdriver to reset the slot to the same position after you have primed the engine. That way the distributor will drop right back in. Don't ask how I know

Definitely drain the gas and put in fresh gas. When you get ready to crank it over, unhook the fuel line at the carb and hook it up with a rubber line to a small gas tank. Crank it until you see fresh gas coming out, then hook everything back up. Even if if starts and runs on the old gas, you'll go nuts wondering why it runs like crap.

Go for it
Marc in Indy
57 283/245 4 speed- in the family since the early 60's
72 Coupe 350 base auto- newly acquired driver
Old 08-13-2016, 09:25 PM
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Gary's '66
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with Bluestripe and Bowlerdude. Sounds as though you could use a hand with this especially, since you've been quite emphatic concerning "messing it up".

As for the gas removal. I think that I would siphon all I could from the tank BUT, just to be on the safe side, I would also remove the rubber line that goes from the tank that feeds the fuel pump as well and, let gravity drain out the rest.

Actually, Marc's way would be even better (saw it after posting)

Good luck and welcome back.

Gary

Last edited by Gary's '66; 08-13-2016 at 09:38 PM.

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Old 08-13-2016, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Joemac8
It was in a frozen garage. The rebuild has at most 300 miles on it.

How can I get oil up so that it doesn't start really dry? (Please be specific as I don't want to mess this up)
Great advice from hugh922
Old 08-13-2016, 09:37 PM
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You guys are over-thinking it. Since the engine has already been broken in, it has oil on all the critical surfaces. I'd simply fire the damn thing up. The carb. is dry so by the time the fuel gets there and it fires, you'll already have lots of oil pressure. I've torn apart engines that have sat for decades and have never seen one that wasn't still well lubricated at all bearings and the pistons.
The 3 year old gas may be a problem but I doubt it. Replace it if it makes you feel better.
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:43 PM
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I agree that it's easy to over-think it.. You've now heard everything from 'just fire it up' to 'major service'. It's a judgement call.. If it were mine I would drain and fill the gas tank and spin the oil pump for a few minutes, then fire it up. Hopefully won't take more than and hour or two.

Last edited by SDVette; 08-13-2016 at 09:47 PM.


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