When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wondering what the approx. cost would be to have someone replace, head gaskets, intake gaskets, valve seals, etc....?
I am starting to have issues when I let the car sit for a couple of days. When I start it up, it runs rough until I drive it down the road a 1/4-1/2 mile. Then it is fine
Wondering what the approx. cost would be to have someone replace, head gaskets, intake gaskets, valve seals, etc....?
I am starting to have issues when I let the car sit for a couple of days. When I start it up, it runs rough until I drive it down the road a 1/4-1/2 mile. Then it is fine
67 327/300.
John, on a C2 it is very easy to do it yourself. So, I would suggest that you pull your own heads, (check the torque specs etc) and call your local ppreferred speed shop. Ask for a quote for rebuilding the heads. Buy the parts, and reinstall them yourself. About $200 plus the machine shop labor
John, on a C2 it is very easy to do it yourself. So, I would suggest that you pull your own heads, (check the torque specs etc) and call your local ppreferred speed shop. Ask for a quote for rebuilding the heads. Buy the parts, and reinstall them yourself. About $200 plus the machine shop labor
I actually with help from a friend who is a rebuilder put the heads together about 9-10 yrs ago. Unfortunately I have moved away and am not in contact much anymore. the heads were rebuild at that time with new bronze valve guides, new z28 springs as well as new retainers and hardened seats.
I had an issue with the heat riser being stuck shut for a few years when my father owned the car and wondering if that lead to the seals failing prematurely. When checking the plugs, the passenger side seems to be the culprit.
My issue would be removing and reinstalling the rocker gear, etc.... I have no idea what to do when it comes to that...
Also, would I need new Head Bolts or reuse them?
Last edited by johngandersonjr; Aug 15, 2016 at 05:19 PM.
I think you are going way over board in what you want. It could be a ton of easy things causing your problems. Why head gaskets? Is it over heating or leaking water into oil? Do you mean valve cover gaskets?
Do the plugs have oil on them or just black? Give us some more info before you tear it apart. At least do a compression test first.
Last edited by Bowtyeguy; Aug 15, 2016 at 05:51 PM.
Agree on doing a little more diagnostic work prior to tearing things apart. Valve guide seals can be installed easy without removing heads, exhaust manifolds, intake, etc. Need to figure out what the car is doing and then diagnosing properly.
I think you are going way over board in what you want. It could be a ton of easy things causing your problems. Why head gaskets? Is it over heating or leaking water into oil? Do you mean valve cover gaskets?
Do the plugs have oil on them or just black? Give us some more info before you tear it apart. At least do a compression test first.
I think you are going way over board in what you want. It could be a ton of easy things causing your problems. Why head gaskets? Is it over heating or leaking water into oil? Do you mean valve cover gaskets?
Do the plugs have oil on them or just black? Give us some more info before you tear it apart. At least do a compression test first.
Plugs do not seem to be wet, just really black and full of particles.
I would take the car to a mechanic and have him sort it out. Very unlikely a head/valve issue. Perhaps a valve seal on the one cylinder with the wet/oily plug....a simple on-car repair with no need to remove the head. I did head gaskets, intake, and valve covers/valve adjustment on my '61 on a Saturday for less than $40 in parts. I provided the labor. You need to have at least basic knowledge of engines and diagnostics before you start tearing things apart needlessly. If you don't, it's going to cost you. From your post, your best bet is taking it to a pro for a thorough looking over.
I don't know why you would go 'medieval' and start tearing major stuff off the motor for sooty plugs. What plugs are you using ? I've found the NGK-XR4 plugs to be the best for these cars after having run through a variety of other brands/heat ranges.
I agree - take it to a pro and get a proper diagnosis of what the issue might be. On my '63 it was valve seals soaking the plugs on start up. A fairly easy on-the-car fix and relatively cheap....
I don't know why you would go 'medieval' and start tearing major stuff off the motor for sooty plugs. What plugs are you using ? I've found the NGK-XR4 plugs to be the best for these cars after having run through a variety of other brands/heat ranges.
I agree - take it to a pro and get a proper diagnosis of what the issue might be. On my '63 it was valve seals soaking the plugs on start up. A fairly easy on-the-car fix and relatively cheap....
I have R45S plugs. i put new ones in about 2 weeks ago and started having problems again within about 10 days or so. I try to drive it every day but sometimes I don't. if I wait about 2-3 days that is when I have the issues.
I have R45S plugs. i put new ones in about 2 weeks ago and started having problems again within about 10 days or so. I try to drive it every day but sometimes I don't. if I wait about 2-3 days that is when I have the issues.
John,
I'm betting on valve seals. Truly a simple task for a DIYer. But, certainly, if you're not comfortable doing this take it to a professional and have the work done. Shouldn't be more than a two hour job for someone who knows what they're doing.
Are you using oil? Is it blowing out the tail pipe? Is the carb running really rich on the side with the sooty plugs? Valve seals can be done without taking the heads off. Have it diagnosed.
Are you using oil? Is it blowing out the tail pipe? Is the carb running really rich on the side with the sooty plugs? Valve seals can be done without taking the heads off. Have it diagnosed.
I am using some oil. Tailpipe is pretty black.
I would say 1/2 qt every 500 miles or so.
Side with sooty plugs is the side with heat riser as well. Heat rise is working. Replaced it about 1000 miles ago.
Also. Carb diesels when shut off.
Last edited by johngandersonjr; Aug 15, 2016 at 07:55 PM.
I would take it to someone you can trust to check timing and carb. I dont like the right side bank of the plugs but a couple things can be causing that. They can do valve seals by plugging air into the cylinder without taking the heads off and that will save you money. I would start with a compression test.
I've had excellent results with NGK plugs in all kinds of vehicles. No matter what it says on the body stickers, MANY NASCAR teams and NHRA record holders won't use anything else.
Its not a plug problem, its the right side bank fouling the plugs just on that side. Is the carb dripping down after you turn it off and gas just laying in manifold? Needs a person that can dheck it out but dont pull the heads.