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[C2] Cam replacement

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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 09:37 AM
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Default Cam replacement

Has anybody replaced there cam in a 67 327 Vette without removing the hood. Or do I need to pull the motor. Ian
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 09:45 AM
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It might be possible but it would be much easier to pull the hood so you can work from the front and do a better job of guiding the old cam out and the new cam in without scarring up the bearings. The radiator needs to come out and sometimes the engine needs to be raised a little so the cam will clear the cross bracing on the radiator support (at least on big blocks - not 100% sure on small blocks)
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 09:56 AM
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I was hoping to not take the hood off, i think there are tabs on the timing chain cover also, so the pan has to be dropped, maybe I just need to pull the motor. Ian
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 10:42 AM
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Yes there are tabs on the TC and the pan needs to be lowered at the least 3/4". Pulling your engine, it all depends on the amount of work you want to do. If your engine bay is a little dowdy, it's your chance to spruce it up. Dennis
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluestripe67
Pulling your engine, it all depends on the amount of work you want to do. If your engine bay is a little dowdy, it's your chance to spruce it up. Dennis
That's exactly how it started with my 60 back in 1985. I started cleaning the engine comp. and thought it would be easier if I pulled the engine. Before I knew it, the body was off the frame and the car was 100% dis-assembled. I caught a severe case of "while I'm at it disease". The OP needs to be aware of this affliction.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 01:17 PM
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Pulling the hood is not a big deal if you mark your brackets and get at least one helper.
Place padding/towels around your body in case you bump while removing the hood bolts.
Much easier than pulling the engine but if you are pulling the engine the hood must come off anyway.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 03:54 PM
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Pulling hood, going to get the top end removed and see what I have, will update when I am there, probably by next Sunday with this weeks work schedule,
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Westlotorn
Pulling the hood is not a big deal if you mark your brackets and get at least one helper.
Place padding/towels around your body in case you bump while removing the hood bolts.
Much easier than pulling the engine but if you are pulling the engine the hood must come off anyway.
I use liberal amounts of blue painters tape anywhere around the hood opening that might be hit by the hood if it slips...
Bill
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Last edited by wmf62; Sep 5, 2016 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 10:33 PM
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Great idea thanks
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Westlotorn
Pulling the hood is not a big deal if you mark your brackets and get at least one helper.
Place padding/towels around your body in case you bump while removing the hood bolts.
Much easier than pulling the engine but if you are pulling the engine the hood must come off anyway.
with Mark, as I've had my hood off MANY times. I use masking tape on the hood at the top and sides of the hinges to outline them for re-installation. As long as it's off (unless they've been replaced) you might want to check them for side to side movement as mine were quite worn, especially the braced side.

Gary
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 09:33 AM
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Ok Cam is out the first 2 lobes were worn down along with the lifter. Don't know why it's worn, maybe it wasn't broken in correctly. I having only owned this car since December, so I am replacing the cam with a crane cam and lifters same grind as original 350hp cam which this car was supposed to have, also replacing timing chain and water pump. Ian
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 10:08 AM
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If they are worn as you describe, then the metal has circulated through the oiling system. I would not expect the filter to trap all the metal. That means the bearings may have been damaged. You may be looking at a full rebuild. In the mean time send an oil sample out for analyzation for metal content. If it was my issue, I would do a rebuild before something more serious happens. Dennis

Last edited by Bluestripe67; Sep 13, 2016 at 10:10 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 11:36 AM
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Yeah I would like to do a full rebuild, but the funds aren't there right now, going to have to get it back running. I way over paid for this car and have dumped to much money in it just to get it to this stage. Ian
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:50 PM
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I am not a tech or a machinist, but you may be able to replace your bearings without a full rebuild. My thoughts and suggestion that follow requires pulling the engine for best results. I would not put a new cam assembly in knowing that bearings may be damaged and then you start the damage cycle all over again. Pull the heads. Check each cylinder for a ridge at the top, that will indicate the bores are not worn needing to be bored. The ridge would be very noticable. If there is no ridge, you can consider the idea of replacing all the bearing. This may be a little over the top for your skills, but there is plenty of info on the net about bearing replacement on SBC engines. Others here on the CF will provide some thoughts. Dennis
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 09:36 AM
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Finally got my car back last night, new Cam, Lifters, push rods, timing chain, water pump, wires and plugs. The car finally runs very smooth it used to have a lope which I assumed was normal. There was 2 schools of thoughts on this project complete engine rebuild or just clean and replace the worn parts, I went for the replace worn parts. Next up replace Exaust. Ian
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 10:31 AM
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Remember to change your oil filter after cam break in. Moly lube tends to plug em up. How is your oil press by the way?
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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 12:04 AM
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Nope I did not remove the motor.ian
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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 10:26 AM
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CorvetteMikeB, picking up on a 5 year old thread really makes it a disjointed effort. Start a new thread with pertinate details in order to get the best responses. Dennis
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