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I have my dist all apart and it looks good. I am wondering if the counter weights look okay as they tend to not correctly close in the static position. Springs seem okay. Do I heed a new spring and weight kit? Its a 300 HP with original springs.
If you can spread them and release and they stop short, but you can push them closed more with your fingers, that is a problem (hanging up). Us old racers used to polish them, bevel the leading edge, as well as using oil, so they would hang up. I run custom ones for 40 plus years, so I don't visually know the stock ones closed position. Those look closed.
Last edited by TCracingCA; 08-27-2021 at 05:35 AM.
They look fine, clean everything up and a very small spray of WD-40 to lube and put it back in the car. The 163 vacuum advance is also good for your 300hp engine provided you have the stook camshaft and approx. 18" vacuum at idle.
Shouldn't make any difference when the engine isn't spinning. It's how much they move when it is. As soon as you turn the key, they start moving. If they aren't moving freely, that's a different question.
Rather than "all apart" it appears you just removed the cap and rotor. The weights may be OE, but sometimes it's tough to tell. Note that they do not retract all the way to the cam, but only retract to where they interfere with each other. This is normal with some OE configurations. The springs look heavy, but then the max OE centrifugal a lazy 30 @ 5000.
The ...163 VAC is a BOAT ANCHOR. It's modern replacement is stamped B1 and may take up to 19" to pull to the limit so it doesn't pass the Two-Inch Rule. OE and aftermarket parts catalogs call this out due to an mistaken parts consolidation by GM decades ago. I've been saying this for the over 20 years I've been on this forum. The original 12" VAC current replacement is the B26, and that's a good one for Powerglide, but if a manual use a 15" B22. You should always test and apply the Two-Inch Rule because the camshaft may not be OE equivalent. Determine idle vacuum in neutral with a manual and Drive with PG, and if either is AC the compressor should be engaged if equipped with AC.
I don't know what you are trying to do, but I expect your 50+ year old distributor is in need of "blueprint/overhaul" and optimization of the spark advance map. A full discussion of this in in the archives, threads started by me. the tuning seminar, distributor blueprint/overhaul, and ignition points threads.
Rather than "all apart" it appears you just removed the cap and rotor. The weights may be OE, but sometimes it's tough to tell. Note that they do not retract all the way to the cam, but only retract to where they interfere with each other. This is normal with some OE configurations. The springs look heavy, but then the max OE centrifugal a lazy 30 @ 5000.
The ...163 VAC is a BOAT ANCHOR. It's modern replacement is stamped B1 and may take up to 19" to pull to the limit so it doesn't pass the Two-Inch Rule. OE and aftermarket parts catalogs call this out due to an mistaken parts consolidation by GM decades ago. I've been saying this for the over 20 years I've been on this forum. The original 12" VAC current replacement is the B26, and that's a good one for Powerglide, but if a manual use a 15" B22. You should always test and apply the Two-Inch Rule because the camshaft may not be OE equivalent. Determine idle vacuum in neutral with a manual and Drive with PG, and if either is AC the compressor should be engaged if equipped with AC.
I don't know what you are trying to do, but I expect your 50+ year old distributor is in need of "blueprint/overhaul" and optimization of the spark advance map. A full discussion of this in in the archives, threads started by me. the tuning seminar, distributor blueprint/overhaul, and ignition points threads.
Duke
Duke, Where do you buy your vacuum advance diaphragms and advance springs? Do you have a part number for the 15" B22?
I have a NOS #163 vacuum advance that I bought from GM back in the eighties and I believe it's stamped (163-15). This control is pulled full in at 16" vacuum according to my mity-vac so once again if you have a stock camshaft that makes 18" idle vacuum I think you will be fine using it.
I have to agree with Duke that the B-22 which has a spec of 15@15" vacuum is a better choice but the above still applies the 163 is the GM replacement for the 300hp control.
Yes, I have a 163-15 advance and it might be original to the car, I started this thread because I wondered if the counter weights should snuggle together tighter in the static condition. I thoroughly went through and lubed the distributor when I rotated the driven gear 180* to accommodate my cam lobe activated Pertronix. The 163-15 works good with my Mighty Vac being all in at 16": The car runs good, although it only produces 16" at idle. It has the Calif K19 smog so the vacuum advance is hooked to ported vacuum and shows no advance at idle. I have thought about puling the heads for a look but the car runs very well at 83,000 mi. I suspect that engine has never been rebuilt as it doesn't have a bolt insuring the harmonic balancer stays put!
Last edited by JohnFromVentura; 09-04-2021 at 07:51 PM.
You should always test and apply the Two-Inch Rule because the camshaft may not be OE equivalent. Determine idle vacuum in neutral with a manual and Drive with PG, and if either is AC the compressor should be engaged if equipped with AC.
Duke
Here is a question, do you check the idle vacuum with or without the vacuum can connected to a direct manifold vacuum source during this test?
Joe
The NAPA part number for a B22 VAC is VC-1802 and any parts store should be able to cross this to whatever brand they sell. All these VACs are manufactured by Standard Motor Products, but are sold in over half a dozen brands, including Delco.
The OE VAC on '67 300 HP engines is the 12" 355 16. The modern replacement is B26, NAPA VC-1765.
Too check idle vacuum on a car with ported vacuum advance you need to tee into a full time manifold vacuum source. The choke vacuum break and power brake vacuum sources are full time.
The NAPA part number for a B22 VAC is VC-1802 and any parts store should be able to cross this to whatever brand they sell. All these VACs are manufactured by Standard Motor Products, but are sold in over half a dozen brands, including Delco.
The OE VAC on '67 300 HP engines is the 12" 355 16. The modern replacement is B26, NAPA VC-1765.
Too check idle vacuum on a car with ported vacuum advance you need to tee into a full time manifold vacuum source. The choke vacuum break and power brake vacuum sources are full time.
Duke
Where are you getting your springs these days? Which ones do you most often use?
08-27-2021, 02:46 AM
67 Distributor Counter Weights SB?
