Wow ! someone was thinking outside the box ! I myself would switch it to a 4 link w/coilovers. As has been stated loosen or remove the spring clamps and hope it doesn't collapse, the clamps are making the spring solid. Just doing coilovers would be a big improvement as long as long as the front of the arms can pivot freely.

 

Thanks for the observations. I see that shock would hit the ground with a flat, ugh! Chrysler 8.5 rear, well it's all Chrysler then. Spring clamps, couldn't remember if my old 65 had them, 30 years ago, I'll try removing the shock and then the leaf spring clamp, speed bumps on my street.

The last owner had big block front coils added like they did for the 396.
Starting to rain in Oregon so not much driving for a few days.

 

Yup. Those clamps prevent the spring from flexing at all. What you have is pretty much a completely solid rear suspension. I wouldn't bother removing the shocks - they can't really move anyway...........

 

Mopar 8-3/4?

 

Need more.photos of the trailing arms and panhard.rod.

Either Chrysler 8.75 rear axle (round weld) or Ford 9 (oval weld) housing.

The panhard rod behind the spring it to keep it centered.

The trailing arms mounting to the axle needs closer inspection to see if the axle floats in the arms or are rigid mounts. A suspension with a rigidly mounted axle to both trailing arms uses the axle housing as a massive rigid anti-sway bar. The result is near zero side to side independent action. It is like a rear ladder bar suspension (with a questionable instant center location).

If you want improved handling, a five link C4 style rear suspension is lightyears better than the live axle or the three link C2/C3 suspension.

The 392 weight bias may need some heft out back to balance out. That chassis and driveline may be better under a 55 Chevrolet, leaving room for a custom C4 chassis.

A lot of potential to work with.

 

I think a Ford would have the ring gear hump and or dimples: http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

 

Wow that really help's ID the rear end. When it stops raining I'll take it out to the dump and get a weight, front/rear.

Today I've got to trouble shoot the electric fan not working, adjust the clutch throw and check again for a leak from the transmission.

Thanks for all your knowledge.

 

Looks like the right rear wheel bearing/axle seal is leaking gear oil pretty good....something that bears closer inspection. X3 on converting the car back to original rear suspension....it would help a bunch on ride quality. The rest of the car is really nice, IMO.

 

I saw that too.

 

Hey fellow Porsche guy!

Cool stuff!

Guys mentioned the spring clamps! Taking those off worth a try!

Before you tear it all apart, you should try to figure out who owned it and see what that history was!

Your suspension as it sits capable of only about 1 inch travel up and down!

I would like like to see the rear tire wells and guess this all happened as the car moved to competing on the more modern sticky drag racing slick era! The earlier cars would have liked the weight transfer to force hook up! But the weight transfer wasn't as critical once tire technology bit! This car would walk the front end with the tire hook up and in lieu of wheelie bars, they were trying to limit the front end climb by mods in the azz end!

I am not on a Computer till Monday to get a really good look, but first measure your wheelbase length for me! Those rear arms look modified and not sure from the iPhone picture as to if anything stock is left holding on the rear tires! It looks like an upper panhard rod setup installed is acting in the capacity as a sway bar, adjustable to correct rear side to side compression laterally or solid axle lateral rocking due to the float! Tire bite side to side and a straight launch was what they were after! The novelty is the substitute of a rigid spring mount in place of the stock rear diff that normally holds the spring!

Let me eat and then take another look and then I will finish this exploratory post!

So what are you hoping this car will become? Can we see pictures of the car?

 

Ok someone threw street tires on it to drive it on the street or to sell the car! You have no stock parts in the back end of your car, except for the spring and maybe not that either!

Not much clearance of the end spring bolts to the tire/rims! They cut them to the length or bought them to stop short of tire interference! The rims back in the drag race era weren't as backspaced! Or if this thing wasn't tracked, it was someone's street racing weapon! If you could run longer bolts to let the spring droop, I bet the arch was taken out! The clamps hold it at the 2/3, much like my Father when he drag raced his two cars or auto crossed it! On flat surfaces, we didn't want a whole lot of suspension movement! With those clamps on, I still don't see any arch on those ends!

I wish you would take off the tire and shoot us a picture of the square tube trailing arm front configuration and attachment! Those are some hefty trailing arms!

I just saved this pictures so I can enlarge on my phone for a better look!

Interesting!

 

A drag strip suspension.

If a straight line car is what thr OP wants, then it is worth discussing further.

The suspension looks odd to a person who has little experience outside of IRS setups and factory suspensions, as few people build their own systems. The suspension looks like a simple two link with a panhard rod. The transverse leaf is novel, but not much different from old Model T designs. The unknown is how the CG and IC relate. Normally a similar suspension up will oversteer. With the 392 hemi weight bias a car will usually understeer. With both issues it may simply handle poorly except for drag racing.

The owner desire really is critical.

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...emi-vette.html

 

I wondered about the square trailing arm also. Couldn't remember what was in my old 65. Somewhat familiar with trailing arms as I replaced my steel trailing arms on my Porsche with aluminum. The axle is resting in a yoked welded on top of the trailing arm.

Still raining so no test drive yet. As I mentioned this car will be a driver on a nice day, 1st convertible I had in years, maybe some car shows to surprise a few vette owners. I'll connect with the local club here in Portland.

 

 

Well the trailing arms look like the were just fabricated out of 3' square steel stock, mounted the same as original trailing arm.

Now the interesting part. Pulled the wheel and brake drum off to look at the axle bearing, ugh! Grease all over. Think I remember you remove the 4-5 bolts and the axle slides out and the bearing is accessible.

With only that side off the ground I couldn't turn the axle, hmm. Jacked up the other wheel and it moves. Over to the right side again and I can turn the axle, but the wheel on the other side moves the same direction !!!

Well haven't had limited slip (posi-traction) for a long time so either that what's in the differential (Chrysler 8.5) orrr, it's a solid axel which may have stressed the bearing going around corners.

Holy smoke! Any thoughts from the experts???

 

Well 3 possibilities
1, Good tight Sure-Grip ("Powr-lok, Dodge style posi)
2. A Spool (Straight or dirt race track Only)
Or ....... Wait for it .........
3. "The Poor man Spool"............ Welded up spider gears! .
I advise ...... that coupled with one operable rear brake.
Don't be taking any hard corners accelerating or decelerating .

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Spin City $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Good luck & be safe

 

When you go around a corner, do you hear a rear tire skipping or chirp? If not, probably just a good posi.

Could always do a torque test on the rear axle to determine what torque (if any) that it breaks free.

Plasticman

 

Can you take a photo of the yoke welded to the trailing arm at the axle?

A few companies made "full floater" axle mounting brackets that would allow the axle housing to twist, pinion up or down, to prevent axle binding with leaf springs or linkage. Typically one side was allowed to twist and the other side was welded to maintain some pinion angle alignment.

A fun collectible, and possibility good straight line traction.

 

Stingxray nailed it. You have a nice tight positraction (limited slip with clutches) or a locker or spool or welded up spider gears. If it doesn't lurch and snap and skid around corners, you have a limited slip diff. Had the same exact rear in a '66 Coronet....excellent rear end.