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Hi Paul,
Be sure to fit check the clearance to the A-arms with the motor sitting in place before you order the smaller pulley. Like i said earlier, the SC&C A-arms will give quite a bit more clearance than the stock A-arms.
It's been a few years since I did my water pump modification, but I don't remember having to use anything other than vice grips to remove the factory outlet fittings. Pretty sure I just clamped the heck out of them and twisted as I pulled. Spraying a little PB Blaster around the fittings can't hurt....
Keep us posted on the progress,
Rick
water pump fittings are off so thanks. I get the frame back this coming Monday and then will sit the motor and trans in place then address the pulley and water pump fittings.
You can buy brass right angle fittings for your heater hose outlets from your local auto parts store. You can pipe thread the holes yourself, the aluminum threads like butter - too easy - don't go too deep. Easy job.
Scoggins Dickey supplies a real nice bracket to mount your clutch ball stud if you want to retain your mechanical clutch linkage [I think is the best way].
Depending on which engine mount plate brand you buy you probably want to use the "1inch set back plates" which actually put the engine in the stock location if you want your clutch linkage etc. to line up. I found this out AFTER I modified my hooker side pipe headers.
You can tell by the amount of grunge this car gets driven a lot ....
Hi Paul,
For the water pump fittings, whether you use brass or stainless, just be sure that at least one of the fittings is a two-piece version. Otherwise there's not enough room to rotate/thread them into place since the holes are so close to each other.
2004 6.0L in a '65 Corvette.
At the time 6ish years ago, these are GM pn#'s I used
Pan 12628771
P.U. screen 12558251
Windage Tray 12552253
Dip Stick tube 12551577
Dip Stick 12551581
Dip Stick tube Oring 12557752
The parts inclusions with the pan may have changed.... meaning the oil pan part # may now include some of these part #'s
*Edit*
I meant to mention that this conversion was done 6 years ago.
now I have the LS6 and the tremec 5 speed ready to go into the 67 Vette the LS block is approx. 2" shorter than the 327 block. I bought the new motor mounts from LS Conversions so I believe they have to be correct ? as I have the body off I am concerned that the shifter might not line up with the original console.
Can anyone who has done this before advise me
I asked you in a previous post to to give a slight bit more of a clue which mounts you are referring to. Someone could probably give you some help if you could provide that simple information. I won't ask again.
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