[C2] Brake light switch
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
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Army
Have the car backed up to a reflective surface....then disconnect the battery...
Its easier if you take the driver's seat out; then lay on your back and take a smartphone picture of the switch noting the position of the two wires and how far the threaded barrel of the old switch is sticking through its bracket. Now, its easier if you take the rod/clevis out of the brake pedal temporarily but its not absolutely necessary. You may see a small cylindrical object (capacitor) with one lead (a copper tab) attached to one of the brake switch wires at the switch (note the arrangement). See the picture.
Laying on your back unscrew the large nut on the forward end of the switch, remove the wires and remove the switch. Install the new switch and position it approx the same depth as the old one by adjusting the rearmost large nut, stick it in the bracket, and screw on the front large nut. Reattach the brake pedal rod. Make sure the switch button hits the rod squarely and (many times the brackets are bent over the years) bend the bracket slightly for the best alignment if needed; then adjust the switch. I like it to come on very quickly with just a light touch on the pedal - tastes vary. Often you can hear the switch make/break its connection to help in the adjustment; otherwise you'll have to check by looking back at the reflective surface at the rear of the car for brake light illumination.
When satisfied tighten the front nut against the bracket, reattach the wires (and capacitor if there was one) and you're done.
Its a 15 minute job and sounds more complicated than it is.
The pic is my pedal ***'y out of the car but how the switch will look from under the dash... I prefer the metal switches as shown, many replacements are plastic.
Its easier if you take the driver's seat out; then lay on your back and take a smartphone picture of the switch noting the position of the two wires and how far the threaded barrel of the old switch is sticking through its bracket. Now, its easier if you take the rod/clevis out of the brake pedal temporarily but its not absolutely necessary. You may see a small cylindrical object (capacitor) with one lead (a copper tab) attached to one of the brake switch wires at the switch (note the arrangement). See the picture.
Laying on your back unscrew the large nut on the forward end of the switch, remove the wires and remove the switch. Install the new switch and position it approx the same depth as the old one by adjusting the rearmost large nut, stick it in the bracket, and screw on the front large nut. Reattach the brake pedal rod. Make sure the switch button hits the rod squarely and (many times the brackets are bent over the years) bend the bracket slightly for the best alignment if needed; then adjust the switch. I like it to come on very quickly with just a light touch on the pedal - tastes vary. Often you can hear the switch make/break its connection to help in the adjustment; otherwise you'll have to check by looking back at the reflective surface at the rear of the car for brake light illumination.
When satisfied tighten the front nut against the bracket, reattach the wires (and capacitor if there was one) and you're done.
Its a 15 minute job and sounds more complicated than it is.
The pic is my pedal ***'y out of the car but how the switch will look from under the dash... I prefer the metal switches as shown, many replacements are plastic.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Oct 10, 2016 at 07:05 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,167
Likes: 4,172
From: Kannapolis NC
The orange wire (may be black with orange stripe) going to the brake switch is hot all the time and the pedal arm is ground, so you may want to disconnect the battery while you're removing and installing the switch.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,145
Army
Fixed it.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Oct 10, 2016 at 07:05 AM.
