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I'm really interested in improving my low/high beam light. Does anyone have any pics of the Bella H4 or BiFocal H1 or the Cibie H1? And what mod other than the relay trick need to be done to make them fit.
If you are running incandescent bulbs, halogens are a big improvement for very little cost/effort. They are plug-and-play (draw the same current as incandescent) but much brighter, and require no mods at all.
Aircraft landing lites, #4537......
My pictures should be available under my name,
find a picture of the front end
I have been having trouble with posting
pictures displayed since the new format took effect
I had 100w landing lights as my high beams on my 65 ... of course had to put a bigger alternator on it, plus new wiring and relays. I agree the life of these bulbs is low, but as high beams you don't have them on all the time. And they are pretty in-expensive to replace. But they sure shine light beams straight down the road a long freakin way! I don't think they are legal on the roadways either, so if a car is approaching, shut them off as soon as you see it. Bill
Last edited by NightshiftHD; Nov 29, 2016 at 07:12 PM.
Do they work for both low and high beams with the floor switch when placed on the outboard lights.
The LEDs plug right into the original connector and require no relays, as they don't use more power. They will work with regular light switch and the brights will be controlled by the floor switch. (I've tested them.)
The good thing about the LEDs is that you can use the low beams all the time, to really improve normal night driving, without blinding everyone. Additionally, the high beams are very bright, so, you can even unplug the inboard sealed beam, its light is insignificant with the LED high beam on.
I've had aircraft landing lights in my bright sockets before. They are way too bright to ever use on most roads, so they don't really address the normal driving problem we all have.
I received the LED lights and they look great. How do you recommend removing the fins?
I haven't taken the bezel off the vette, so I have yet to compare the back of the lights to the room in the bucket.
I ground them down (they're aluminum). I don't know what year you have, but my 63 is a bit different than other mid years, as there's an extra bracket behind the ones that the bulbs mount to. The outside edges on the fins needed to be reworked to fit into that bracket. I've done that. Now I've just got to reconfigure the individual bulb mounting brackets. Not sure I can save them, probably will design and fabricate new ones...
Here's a pic of the alterations I made to the fins on the new lamp, as well as the revised retaining cup, (which is now more like a 'ring'). This works on the passenger side of a 63 without alterations to the large, 63-only, headlamp retaining bracket. It will probably also work both the passenger's and driver's side of later C2s. The 63 driver's side may require an alteration to the large bracket to clear the lamp harness...
I've put the LED in one socket of a 63. The first photo is the low headlight setting, the third photo is the high setting. The dim setting is much more focused than the sealed beam. You might note that the bulb in the drivers side is an original T3, so it's not equivalent to today's sealed beams...
Last edited by Vettrocious; Dec 4, 2016 at 02:05 PM.
Haven't driven at night with them, waiting to finish with the Detroit Speed motor replacement and then new tires. 14 year old Coker redlines are dated 2003, although they look new. Is there a market for these?
Haven't driven at night with them, waiting to finish with the Detroit Speed motor replacement and then new tires. 14 year old Coker redlines are dated 2003, although they look new. Is there a market for these?
You will love those Detroit Speed motors. They turn in about a second.
I wouldn't drive on tires that old. I think there are threads (either here or on NCRS) about the deterioration of old tires. I'd read those before I used them much...
There is an old thread on the forum where I did the headlight relays and measured the before and after with the F-meter on my Nikon. I had previously done the Sylvania's and the relays make a big difference.
I hid the relays in the unused voltage regulator housing and you wouldn't even know they were there.