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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 12:17 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by SDVette
Maybe on a C2 where they hide away... but those would look pretty 'Buck Rogers' on a C1
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 05:44 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by NightshiftHD
Only $400, with a fancy, genuine Harley, box!! Let's see.. $54 vs $400, hard to decide...

For the C1 guys, there is also a black version that is slightly less obvious, but this LED is probably a better solution for C2s than C1s:





Thanks for the performance info Bill. It confirmed what I saw in my crude tests...

Mike

Last edited by Vettrocious; Nov 29, 2016 at 05:53 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 11:28 AM
  #43  
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I'm really interested in improving my low/high beam light. Does anyone have any pics of the Bella H4 or BiFocal H1 or the Cibie H1? And what mod other than the relay trick need to be done to make them fit.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 02:47 PM
  #44  
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Do they work for both low and high beams with the floor switch when placed on the outboard lights.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 05:33 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Goldduster
Do they work for both low and high beams with the floor switch when placed on the outboard lights.
Yes, of course ... that is unless you start re-wiring your light circuit! All you are doing is changing bulbs.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 06:18 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by SDVette
If you are running incandescent bulbs, halogens are a big improvement for very little cost/effort. They are plug-and-play (draw the same current as incandescent) but much brighter, and require no mods at all.
Aircraft landing lites, #4537......

My pictures should be available under my name,

find a picture of the front end

I have been having trouble with posting

pictures displayed since the new format took effect
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 06:41 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
Aircraft landing lites, #4537......

My pictures should be available under my name,

find a picture of the front end

I have been having trouble with posting

pictures displayed since the new format took effect
Those will definitely require relays as they draw 100W each!
Also, the average lifetime of landing lights is low. 25 hours on the GE 4537.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 07:10 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
Aircraft landing lites, #4537
I had 100w landing lights as my high beams on my 65 ... of course had to put a bigger alternator on it, plus new wiring and relays. I agree the life of these bulbs is low, but as high beams you don't have them on all the time. And they are pretty in-expensive to replace. But they sure shine light beams straight down the road a long freakin way! I don't think they are legal on the roadways either, so if a car is approaching, shut them off as soon as you see it. Bill

Last edited by NightshiftHD; Nov 29, 2016 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 07:40 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Goldduster
Do they work for both low and high beams with the floor switch when placed on the outboard lights.
The LEDs plug right into the original connector and require no relays, as they don't use more power. They will work with regular light switch and the brights will be controlled by the floor switch. (I've tested them.)

The good thing about the LEDs is that you can use the low beams all the time, to really improve normal night driving, without blinding everyone. Additionally, the high beams are very bright, so, you can even unplug the inboard sealed beam, its light is insignificant with the LED high beam on.

I've had aircraft landing lights in my bright sockets before. They are way too bright to ever use on most roads, so they don't really address the normal driving problem we all have.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 09:26 PM
  #50  
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I'm looking forward to photo's of your installation and what you had to adapt to make them fit
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 03:38 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Goldduster
I'm looking forward to photo's of your installation and what you had to adapt to make them fit
Me too, if you can get them in there I am ordering them !
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 11:03 AM
  #52  
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I received the LED lights and they look great. How do you recommend removing the fins?

I haven't taken the bezel off the vette, so I have yet to compare the back of the lights to the room in the bucket.
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Goldduster
I received the LED lights and they look great. How do you recommend removing the fins?

I haven't taken the bezel off the vette, so I have yet to compare the back of the lights to the room in the bucket.
I ground them down (they're aluminum). I don't know what year you have, but my 63 is a bit different than other mid years, as there's an extra bracket behind the ones that the bulbs mount to. The outside edges on the fins needed to be reworked to fit into that bracket. I've done that. Now I've just got to reconfigure the individual bulb mounting brackets. Not sure I can save them, probably will design and fabricate new ones...
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Old Dec 3, 2016 | 02:25 PM
  #54  
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Here's a pic of the alterations I made to the fins on the new lamp, as well as the revised retaining cup, (which is now more like a 'ring'). This works on the passenger side of a 63 without alterations to the large, 63-only, headlamp retaining bracket. It will probably also work both the passenger's and driver's side of later C2s. The 63 driver's side may require an alteration to the large bracket to clear the lamp harness...


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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 01:57 PM
  #55  
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I've put the LED in one socket of a 63. The first photo is the low headlight setting, the third photo is the high setting. The dim setting is much more focused than the sealed beam. You might note that the bulb in the drivers side is an original T3, so it's not equivalent to today's sealed beams...








Last edited by Vettrocious; Dec 4, 2016 at 02:05 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 01:01 PM
  #56  
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I followed your instructions and they work great on my 67
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 05:58 PM
  #57  
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Great!! Have you driven it at night yet?

Post a pic, please...
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #58  
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Haven't driven at night with them, waiting to finish with the Detroit Speed motor replacement and then new tires. 14 year old Coker redlines are dated 2003, although they look new. Is there a market for these?
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldduster
Haven't driven at night with them, waiting to finish with the Detroit Speed motor replacement and then new tires. 14 year old Coker redlines are dated 2003, although they look new. Is there a market for these?
You will love those Detroit Speed motors. They turn in about a second.

I wouldn't drive on tires that old. I think there are threads (either here or on NCRS) about the deterioration of old tires. I'd read those before I used them much...
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 01:51 PM
  #60  
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There is an old thread on the forum where I did the headlight relays and measured the before and after with the F-meter on my Nikon. I had previously done the Sylvania's and the relays make a big difference.

I hid the relays in the unused voltage regulator housing and you wouldn't even know they were there.

Last edited by toddalin; Dec 9, 2016 at 01:51 PM.
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