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Compared to the newer lights out there now they will appear dim. I am not sure that an upgrade is possible. Someone else might know. I think the older wiring will complicate things. I haven't driven my car at night for a long time. I did upgrade to Halogen lights on the high beams but was never sure what I could do with the low beams. Since I didn't run the high beams for any extended time I felt the Halogen would be OK. Lets see what others say!!!!
I put halogen bulbs in years ago. Never an issue and helped quite a bit. There's ways to go brighter, but they're a cheap, cost me around $50.00 for all 4, and easy upgrade. Also a solid state regulator, another cheap upgrade, keeps them from oscillating back and forth from bright to dim the way the mechanical one does.
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; Nov 22, 2016 at 12:37 PM.
Sylvania H5001 and H5006 will work IIRC and not cause any over current issues; if your lights are still dim it could be old wiring/corroded connectors. As suggested, many add relays to get full voltage to the headlights and to reduce current load at the dash switch.
If you are running incandescent bulbs, halogens are a big improvement for very little cost/effort. They are plug-and-play (draw the same current as incandescent) but much brighter, and require no mods at all.
Just replaced my date correct T3s this morning with EIKO halogen, hi/lo only. Rated 12.8 v and 35/35 watt. At $11 each, I can save the T3s for judging and not worry about hunting the world over to find ones that work, and pay out the nose. Plus I can safely drive home from shows now that it's dark at 6pm. I never need the high beams so left those T3s alone.
Just replaced my date correct T3s this morning with EIKO halogen, hi/lo only. Rated 12.8 v and 35/35 watt. At $11 each, I can save the T3s for judging and not worry about hunting the world over to find ones that work, and pay out the nose. Plus I can safely drive home from shows now that it's dark at 6pm. I never need the high beams so left those T3s alone.
Do yourself a favor and clean around those T3 electrodes with some lacquer thinner and then seal them with clear silicone. Because if they ever suck the tiniest amount of air they'll pop like a flashbulb the first time you use them. Like for judging ops check
I put Helle H4 lows and Sylvania Halogen highs in my '67 at least 30 years ago w/55w bulbs. Major light improvement with rewiring. Never have had a bulb burn out. Not cheap, but very good lighting. Dennis
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
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Originally Posted by Bluestripe67
I put Helle H4 lows and Sylvania Halogen highs in my '67 at least 30 years ago w/55w bulbs. Major light improvement with rewiring. Never have had a bulb burn out. Not cheap, but very good lighting. Dennis
Me too, first thing I do on my old cars.....H4, or similar. Even my 56 Belair has them. I can see clearly now.........
I'm wanting to upgrade lights on my 57, and I see that NAPA has two different halogen - type bulbs. One is listed as a "Bright light" and other as just regular halogen. Anyone know if both will work without relays? I still am running generator on my car and would like brightest lights possible without rewiring anything.
I'm wanting to upgrade lights on my 57, and I see that NAPA has two different halogen - type bulbs. One is listed as a "Bright light" and other as just regular halogen. Anyone know if both will work without relays? I still am running generator on my car and would like brightest lights possible without rewiring anything.
Can you post the part numbers?
I took a quick look at NAPA website, but it's hard to tell what you are referring to.
NAPA numbers are LMP H6024 BL (bright light) and LMP H6024 for standard halogen. These numbers came up when I entered 57 Corvette. The bright light versions are listed at $17.49, standard are $10.99 each.
Yes, I was thoroughly confused as well after reading their specs.
I'm hoping to hear from someone who has tried these. Also wonder how these compare to the "H4" designation for halogen lights.