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Fine tuning spark advance with dwell angle changes

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Old 12-28-2016, 02:32 PM
  #101  
Frankie the Fink
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Hmmm.....bent over the fender of my Corvette, with my azz in the air, using a bit of lady's beauty equipment to fix my, car alongside the road, in California ?

That will NEVER happen
(Just kidding of course -- I wouldn't do that in Florida either!)

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 12-28-2016 at 02:33 PM.
Old 12-28-2016, 02:32 PM
  #102  
tuxnharley
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Originally Posted by seb67
I'll bet that after you used your matchbook, you tore up a cigarette to use the paper to set initial timing, right? That would be old mechanics trick number 2.

???? Ok, I'm gonna need an explanation of that one - unless it was just an attempt at humor?

Old 12-28-2016, 02:36 PM
  #103  
tuxnharley
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Hmmm.....bent over the fender of my Corvette, with my azz in the air, using a bit of lady's beauty equipment to fix my, car alongside the road, in California ?

That will NEVER happen
(Just kidding of course -- I wouldn't do that in Florida either!)
So you never work on your car on the roadside? I thought you said the matchbook cover was your roadside breakdown magic repair trick?

Which is it?

Not to worry, 'tho. I doubt your SWC would make it across the country in its present condition.............

Last edited by tuxnharley; 12-28-2016 at 05:27 PM. Reason: typo
Old 12-28-2016, 03:06 PM
  #104  
DansYellow66
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Never used a match book cover to gap points, but did (and still do) use match book covers to deactivate one set of points at a time in a dual point distributor to set dwell on each set individually. Never smoked but my wife collected matches from various restaurants and places as mementos for years so I have a good supply.

Always felt I could eyeball a points gap close enough to get me home to my garage and dwell meter.
Old 12-28-2016, 03:09 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by tuxnharley
???? Ok, I'm gonna need an explanation of that one - unless it was just an attempt at humor?
Frankie apparently doesn't have a dwell-tach or timing light, so I was suggesting setting his distributor up with stuff out of his shirt pocket. I got a "huh" from him. After he sets his dwell with his matchbook cover (the one he checks with his caliper), and either cranks with the starter or turns the engine over by hand (not likely on the side of the road) to line up the vibration damper timing marks with what ever he wants his initial to be (on the tab), then use a piece of cigarette paper (very thin), open the points by hand, slip the paper between the points, turn the distributor counterclockwise against the rotation of the distributor until the points begin to open and the paper slips out. This will put initial timing most likely within a degree or two, if not closer. It's more effective that timing by ear. It should start an engine even if the distributor has been out. Someone will probably ask the question "how do you know you're at TDC on number one", if I am looking at the points, I should be able to tell where the rotor is pointing.

Last edited by seb67; 12-28-2016 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:24 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by seb67
Frankie apparently doesn't have a dwell-tach or timing light, so I was suggesting setting his distributor up with stuff out of his shirt pocket. I got a "huh" from him. After he sets his dwell with his matchbook cover (the one he checks with his caliper), and either cranks with the starter or turns the engine over by hand (not likely on the side of the road) to line up the vibration damper timing marks with what ever he wants his initial to be (on the tab), then use a piece of cigarette paper (very thin), open the points by hand, slip the paper between the points, turn the distributor counterclockwise against the rotation of the distributor until the points begin to open and the paper slips out. This will put initial timing most likely within a degree or two, if not closer. It's more effective that timing by ear. It should start an engine even if the distributor has been out. Someone will probably ask the question "how do you know you're at TDC on number one", if I am looking at the points, I should be able to tell where the rotor is pointing.
If you're just trying to get back home,your method is a little too labor intensive and time consuming for me. FTF's method is quicker and dirtier.
Old 12-28-2016, 04:05 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
If you're just trying to get back home,your method is a little too labor intensive and time consuming for me. FTF's method is quicker and dirtier.
If I remember correctly, there was something in either the service manual or owners manual about setting points if a dwell meter wasn't available. It went something like this;

"If engine is running, turn point adjusting screw in (or out?) slowly until engine begins to misfire, then turn back exactly xx number of turns. That will set the points to within an acceptible range of dwell".

I've never done it so I don't know how close it gets to 30° but probably within a range of decent operation to at least get home.
Old 12-28-2016, 04:18 PM
  #108  
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I am astounded that a thread on something as simple as setting points and timing has had over 3,000 views... and even worse, no consensus or resolution....

Bill
Old 12-28-2016, 04:33 PM
  #109  
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I just realized how blessed I am to be able to eyeball points with no gauge at all and to be able to pry a distributor with a tire iron to power-time a car roadside if need be. It sure has saved me a lot of time and aggravation over the past 40 years. If a person were to use a thin Mercury Head dime back in the old days, he sure would have ended up with timing waaaay advanced: a thin silver dime is about .040", which would give you a dwell of about 10 degrees.....and a 4 cylinder model A probably likes about 52 degrees of dwell. Better off using a matchbook cover or an eyeball!
Old 12-28-2016, 04:38 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Critter1
If I remember correctly, there was something in either the service manual or owners manual about setting points if a dwell meter wasn't available. It went something like this;

"If engine is running, turn point adjusting screw in (or out?) slowly until engine begins to misfire, then turn back exactly xx number of turns. That will set the points to within an acceptible range of dwell".

I've never done it so I don't know how close it gets to 30° but probably within a range of decent operation to at least get home.
It's in the book and I've done it. Don't know what the dwell is like that as I never owned a dwell meter until about10 years ago. Corelli gave me one.
Old 12-28-2016, 04:41 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by wmf62

and even worse, no consensus or resolution....

Bill
Maybe you missed it. 99.9% consensus that increasing dwell retards timing. One degree of dwell equals ?????? don't know for sure but that issue seems totally irrelevant in light of the first supposition being wrong.
Old 12-28-2016, 04:42 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by wmf62
I am astounded that a thread on something as simple as setting points and timing has had over 3,000 views... and even worse, no consensus or resolution....

Bill
Look for a spike in Pertronix sales when this thread dies down.
Old 12-28-2016, 04:56 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by wmf62
I am astounded that a thread on something as simple as setting points and timing has had over 3,000 views... and even worse, no consensus or resolution....

Bill
Well, yeah, but a lot of this thread has gone off track - and yes, I'm guilty of that as are many others.

Back on track - I think part of the disconnect is that the OP came across as if it was presenting a proven fact, and folks challenged that. Later posts by the OP seemed to soften a bit and present the issue more like a question and asking others for independent testing and verification.

Seems like that has happened.

At this point its just ................
Old 12-28-2016, 04:56 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by GTOguy

If a person were to use a thin Mercury Head dime back in the old days, he sure would have ended up with timing waaaay advanced: a thin silver dime is about .040", which would give you a dwell of about 10 degrees.....and a 4 cylinder model A probably likes about 52 degrees of dwell. Better off using a matchbook cover or an eyeball!
Model A points set at .015/.020. If you measure the EDGE of a Roosevelt dime, it's about .040. If you use the surface inside the edge, it's considerably thinner and note that I said use a worn, thin dime. Not a new one. Besides, you could adjust the spark advance by the lever on the column AFTER you adjusted the distributor housing timing in the head.

My dad had a fleet of Model A AA trucks converted into a tree spraying machine, a tractor, a flat bed truck, a four door sedan converted into a tree chemical duster and a Model A roadster he cut down and slung a horse drawn mower underneath to cut his orchards. The heavy work was done in the garage picture shown below. The old guy on the right was a wizard when it came to fixing/inventing things with an anvil, torch and hammer.

He kept the whole fleet running with not much more that a pair of pliers, a couple of screwdrivers and a Ford brake adjusting wrench.

The first engine I ever worked on was putting a head gasket on his Model A tractor. He put the distributor in (through the head) and set the timing with the pin through the front timing gear cover. I did the rest.
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Last edited by MikeM; 12-28-2016 at 04:59 PM.
Old 12-28-2016, 05:23 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by wmf62
I am astounded that a thread on something as simple as setting points and timing has had over 3,000 views... and even worse, no consensus or resolution....

Bill
It's my fault. If I wouldn't have caught Dukes error and posted in my reply in post #2, this discussion probably wouldn't have more than ten or fifteen replies.

I had it right from the start. Others thought about it and most agreed with me.
Old 12-28-2016, 05:25 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Look for a spike in Pertronix sales when this thread dies down.
Old 12-28-2016, 06:22 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
If you're just trying to get back home,your method is a little too labor intensive and time consuming for me. FTF's method is quicker and dirtier.
I went step by step to avoid confusion. To sum it up, what would be simpler than turning the distributor until a piece of paper slips out. The spark occurs when the points break. (I will have to admit FTF's method is dirtier).

This thread does seem to have taken on a life of its own.

Last edited by seb67; 12-28-2016 at 06:23 PM.

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Old 12-28-2016, 06:29 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by seb67
I went step by step to avoid confusion. To sum it up, what would be simpler than turning the distributor until a piece of paper slips out. The spark occurs when the points break. (I will have to admit FTF's method is dirtier).

This thread does seem to have taken on a life of its own.
When yer broke down on the side of the road, trucks/cars whizzing by, arms length away, it's no time for a comb over, **** type repair.

Last edited by MikeM; 12-28-2016 at 06:29 PM.
Old 12-28-2016, 06:34 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Maybe you missed it. 99.9% consensus that increasing dwell retards timing. One degree of dwell equals ?????? don't know for sure but that issue seems totally irrelevant in light of the first supposition being wrong.
Mike
not wanting to further sidetrack this debacle, but this is not the only subject I have disagreed with the OP on...... (even tried one once..., never again....)
Bill

thank the Good Lord for my electronic EFI distributor....

Last edited by wmf62; 12-28-2016 at 06:39 PM.
Old 12-28-2016, 06:58 PM
  #120  
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Great photos, but I'm calling BS on any dime, Roosevelt or Mercury, that is worn to a thickness of .015".....which is less than half the thickness of a standard paper clip wire. You could fold a dime like that with your fingers, and it wouldn't have any imprint at all on it. Maybe if you let a train run over it first.....It has been (and still is with some old-timers) standard practice to use Buffalo nickels as replacements for core plugs in Model T and Model A engines....they are soft, and are a perfect fit. But now we're REALLY off-topic!!!


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