C2 Clutch Swap Pointers
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
C2 Clutch Swap Pointers
1967, 327, 4 speed. I've swapped clutches before, I've worked on this car before, but I've never swapped one on a vette. As you all know, as soon as the "Corvette" prefix is attached to a part or a procedure, it can be complicated, even if that part is found on half the rest of the GM products for that same year. So I'm looking for advice and how-to's to make sure I don't run into any issues before cranking wrenches.
Anyone have a lead on any good videos or breakdowns of the procedure? Anything to watch for (like clamping the fuel pump pushrod)? The original shop manual is light on details, even if you manage to get the pages in the right order.
Anyone have a lead on any good videos or breakdowns of the procedure? Anything to watch for (like clamping the fuel pump pushrod)? The original shop manual is light on details, even if you manage to get the pages in the right order.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 37,671
Likes: 1,114
From: CA
1967, 327, 4 speed. I've swapped clutches before, I've worked on this car before, but I've never swapped one on a vette. As you all know, as soon as the "Corvette" prefix is attached to a part or a procedure, it can be complicated, even if that part is found on half the rest of the GM products for that same year. So I'm looking for advice and how-to's to make sure I don't run into any issues before cranking wrenches.
Anyone have a lead on any good videos or breakdowns of the procedure? Anything to watch for (like clamping the fuel pump pushrod)? The original shop manual is light on details, even if you manage to get the pages in the right order.
Anyone have a lead on any good videos or breakdowns of the procedure? Anything to watch for (like clamping the fuel pump pushrod)? The original shop manual is light on details, even if you manage to get the pages in the right order.
Before you start, take lots of pictures for your own reference...
RR the Pilot Bushing if its never been done before...get the correct one...a non magnetic type...
The shift linkage and adjustment are critical...
Other members will chime in with more info....this/these were my main stumbling points when i RR'd mine...
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,681
Likes: 3,678
From: Central Arkansas
Particularly because of the fixed transmission cross member, a set of home made dowels 3 to 4 inches long (cut the head off of a couple long bolts and thread into the bell housing after removing the upper transmission bolts) gives you a place to hang the transmission (other than on the clutch plate) while maneuvering it out and back in.
The transmission ultimately has to be shoved back over the cross member as far as it will go - which involves also rotating it on it's side to get it back. Even then the input shaft will probably not clear the bell housing register.
You most likely will have to lower the back of the engine down to get the transmission shaft out of the bell housing so removing the distributor is a good idea to protect it and the firewall. Along the same lines, support the back of the engine with a jack (block of wood to protect the oil pan) so you can lower and raise it.
Some members prefer pushing the transmission back and then unbolting the bell housing and lowering the transmission and bell housing together. I haven't tried this but there are a number of fans of it on this site.
Trial fit the TO bearing and fork after the clutch and bell housing are installed. Make sure the fork is going to be well forward in the BH opening so it has plenty of room to stroke back. Sometimes an adjustable pivot ball is a good insurance policy to make sure the clutch fork is far enough forward. Clutch pedal throw space is short in a Corvette and everything has to be optimized pretty much to make sure you have proper engagement and disengagement adjustment of the clutch without running out of pedal travel.
The rest is pretty much standard clutch replacement.
The transmission ultimately has to be shoved back over the cross member as far as it will go - which involves also rotating it on it's side to get it back. Even then the input shaft will probably not clear the bell housing register.
You most likely will have to lower the back of the engine down to get the transmission shaft out of the bell housing so removing the distributor is a good idea to protect it and the firewall. Along the same lines, support the back of the engine with a jack (block of wood to protect the oil pan) so you can lower and raise it.
Some members prefer pushing the transmission back and then unbolting the bell housing and lowering the transmission and bell housing together. I haven't tried this but there are a number of fans of it on this site.
Trial fit the TO bearing and fork after the clutch and bell housing are installed. Make sure the fork is going to be well forward in the BH opening so it has plenty of room to stroke back. Sometimes an adjustable pivot ball is a good insurance policy to make sure the clutch fork is far enough forward. Clutch pedal throw space is short in a Corvette and everything has to be optimized pretty much to make sure you have proper engagement and disengagement adjustment of the clutch without running out of pedal travel.
The rest is pretty much standard clutch replacement.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 140
Once you get the shifter off remove the mounting plate that attaches to the transmission. It's gonna make life a lot easier. As far as a clutch goes, I just installed a McLeod Super Street Pro and it's a fantastic set up. Smooth engagement, plenty of adjustability and nice pedal weight.
It would be a good idea to have the ability to let the motor be raised and lowered with a jack or transmission jack, etc and keep an eye on where the motor tilt has to be while removing the transmission so you can have it at the same angle when you reinstall it. I have a lift which makes it easier, but still a bit of a pain to to maneuver the tranny to get it in so pay attention to your removal angles and process.
You can get a non magnetic pilot bushing at Zip's.
It would be a good idea to have the ability to let the motor be raised and lowered with a jack or transmission jack, etc and keep an eye on where the motor tilt has to be while removing the transmission so you can have it at the same angle when you reinstall it. I have a lift which makes it easier, but still a bit of a pain to to maneuver the tranny to get it in so pay attention to your removal angles and process.
You can get a non magnetic pilot bushing at Zip's.
