I just had my starter rebuilt for my 67 corvette, problem is the car still makes the same clicking noise when trying to start the car. Battery is new 7/16 and fully charged anyone have any ideas???? Thanks

 

bad solenoid ?

insufficient voltage getting to starter / solenoid ?

 

All connections tight and rust free. Also are the fusesble links still in good shape

 

Also, Check the insides of cables for corrosion...

 

could a bad voltage regulator cause this?

 

If you check your battery with a volt meter and shows the correct volts then no your VR has nothing to do with it. There is no need to throw parts at this very old problem. Do some diagnostic test and replace what's broke

 

Thanks

 

Here are a few ideas.

Since you say the starter is rebuilt, did they trim or machine the bolting surface flat? If so, you need to shim the starter away from the block as it can slam the gear into the flywheel instead of the ring gear. Even if ti eventually starts, you could be putting a lot of pressure on the starter shaft which will eventually egg-shape the bushing in the starter nose piece. If you have an aluminum nose piece, this will wear through the bushing and begin to make a wedge shape trough that will seize the shaft as it tries to start.

Have you tried the starter on the ground? Attach a set of jumper cables to the starter, jump the hot lead to the solenoid terminal (purple wire), and see if not only does it click, but that the gear is slammed fully out and that it spins. The force it slams out should make the starter jump, so you need to hold it on the ground. If not, you have something wrong.





What do you mean click? Simply click? Or Click-click-click-click... or one click?
- Multiple clicks is the battery isn't delivering the current and voltage.
- One click is something is hanging up in the starter.

Did they really rebuild the starter? Frequently the copper disk in the end of the solenoid under the cap is burned up and not making contact.

You can usually clean the burned section with a file and be good, or rotate them 180° out so that the good side makes contact. The center disk should be cleaned up with a file to make it flat and smooth again.







Starters are pretty simple. They are a big electric motor with brushes that rid on a few dozen contacts behind the end cap. They take a lot of wear to be bad normally. The solenoid is more likely to stick. Another issue is the Bendix spring/clutch that allows it to kick the starter out if the engine starts while you are holding the key. That gives the "Zinnngggg" sound you may have heard before.




Check that the arm with the big plunger will move freely with the solenoid off the starter. If not, find why. You make need a little grease or you may have something worn out and sticking.

Also, check the big plunger actually moves freely inside the solenoid. Check for burrs, rough spots, and so on. A thin layer of white grease is often helpful. A THIN layer, not a glob as that will cause it to clog up and hang on you.

Check the contact plunger for free movement. That is the shaft in the end that goes through to the contact disk. If it isn't moving and pushing the disk to make contact over the hot lead stud and the starter stud, then no current will flow in the starter.





Then there are the other possible issues:

- corroded cables in battery connectors

- loose cable connections at starter

- bad ground. Yes, the ground on the starter to the block can be bad.
--- Be sure there is a heavy cable from engine to frame is the battery negative cable goes to the frame.
--- If the battery negative cable goes to the engine, remove and clean to be sure the ground is good. Also check that there are ground straps from the engine to the frame and body.

- battery isn't any good. Yes, it is new. Yes, there are infant failures, although rare. Try another battery from another car you know is good. Even a side terminal battery will work for this test. Just use some 3/8" bolts with large washers to contact the battery clamps.

 

On my 67 the contact ring in the starter solenoid wasn't making an adequate connection and it would click. Took it apart and cleaned it and all was ok.

 

Excellent write up Mike!