time for a new engine
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
time for a new engine
was wondering what new style engine everyone would consider
replacing the old 327 with? LSX LS3 LS7 LS2.
what would be the best bang for the buck without having to spend
20K for a new motor? i will keep my old 327 in case i ever sell my
car i have the original motor to go with it.
i would like to put a new chevy small block but would like to get
something with around 500-600 horsepower but not too expensive?
what do u guys think? what new style chevy motor would u pick?
thanks
replacing the old 327 with? LSX LS3 LS7 LS2.
what would be the best bang for the buck without having to spend
20K for a new motor? i will keep my old 327 in case i ever sell my
car i have the original motor to go with it.
i would like to put a new chevy small block but would like to get
something with around 500-600 horsepower but not too expensive?
what do u guys think? what new style chevy motor would u pick?
thanks
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Randy G. (04-04-2017)
#3
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
with 500-600 hp your going to need more then just a new motor. if it was me I would build out a 327 to L-79 specs and call it a day
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#4
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If you don't spend the price of the engine and more on upgrading the car to take that horsepower, at least spend the money on your funeral arrangements and get them paid ahead of time so as not to burden your family with your silliness.
Last edited by MikeM; 04-04-2017 at 05:30 PM.
#5
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Agreed. 5-600 HP will require upgrades to the brakes, steering. suspension, transmission, and rear end. As well as wheels and tires. I would either rebuild the 327, or install a 383 crate motor by Blueprint or one of the other like outfits. 425HP for under 5k, ready to bolt in.
#6
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
KISS=Keep It Simple Sam Rebuild what you have, or find a 350 to rebuild to L-79 specs and enjoy enough torque and horsepower tohave an eternal smile. Dennis
#7
Le Mans Master
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Lessons learned on HP
You start out with a 300 hp car and want to go faster,
Build a 400 hp motor and start spinning the wheels. Bolt the slicks on.
Break a couple of axles and strip a pinion. Build a bullet proof (if there is any) rearend, bigger slicks.
Drop a DNE 5 speed in the car to get there quicker. Strip a few clutches and U-joints, twist the driveshaft.
Drop in a 450 hp + engine and the wheels come off of the ground, but everything else hits the ground (clutches, driveshaft, axles, etc., etc.,)
If you are building a race car, the key work is 'race'. Everything has to be upgraded with the hp, or you have to have a computer and driver to moderate the hp input to the 'stock' weaker components. I don't know of any rodder that can moderate hp on his right foot.
If you insist on that 400-500 hp engine, keep the skinny tires on the back as they are much cheaper to replace than the components that get the power to them. Plus you can impress the kids with all of the smoke.
If you want a 400-500 hp car, go buy a 2107 Corvette, Camaro, Challenger, Mustang, etc. built for the power and save a bunch of money.
Build a 400 hp motor and start spinning the wheels. Bolt the slicks on.
Break a couple of axles and strip a pinion. Build a bullet proof (if there is any) rearend, bigger slicks.
Drop a DNE 5 speed in the car to get there quicker. Strip a few clutches and U-joints, twist the driveshaft.
Drop in a 450 hp + engine and the wheels come off of the ground, but everything else hits the ground (clutches, driveshaft, axles, etc., etc.,)
If you are building a race car, the key work is 'race'. Everything has to be upgraded with the hp, or you have to have a computer and driver to moderate the hp input to the 'stock' weaker components. I don't know of any rodder that can moderate hp on his right foot.
If you insist on that 400-500 hp engine, keep the skinny tires on the back as they are much cheaper to replace than the components that get the power to them. Plus you can impress the kids with all of the smoke.
If you want a 400-500 hp car, go buy a 2107 Corvette, Camaro, Challenger, Mustang, etc. built for the power and save a bunch of money.
Last edited by R66; 04-04-2017 at 08:06 PM.
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Randy G. (04-04-2017)
#9
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I was faced with the same proposition recently, though I didn't want/need that much HP for a cruiser so I went with a GM crate motor (SP350). GM Performance Parts make some pretty tasty motors that will drop right in and have a nice warranty.
For me, reliability was key and while 500HP is easily attainable with an LS, I wanted to avoid re-engineering the car and dropping 15-20K on suspension, transmission, and rear end (I have 3.08 gearing).
500-600 HP on a carburated/NA small block will need a pretty gnarly cam and heads and get the mileage of an oil fire, not to mention $ to be done right.
Good luck and keep us posted on what direction you go in.
For me, reliability was key and while 500HP is easily attainable with an LS, I wanted to avoid re-engineering the car and dropping 15-20K on suspension, transmission, and rear end (I have 3.08 gearing).
500-600 HP on a carburated/NA small block will need a pretty gnarly cam and heads and get the mileage of an oil fire, not to mention $ to be done right.
Good luck and keep us posted on what direction you go in.
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cobrachuck (04-04-2017)
#10
Race Director
Agreed. 5-600 HP will require upgrades to the brakes, steering. suspension, transmission, and rear end. As well as wheels and tires. I would either rebuild the 327, or install a 383 crate motor by Blueprint or one of the other like outfits. 425HP for under 5k, ready to bolt in.
#11
Le Mans Master
I desperately want someone to build an LS based 327 and stick it in a mid year....take the 6.0L block from the LS2 with its 4.0 inch bore, and use the crank out of the 4.8L LS with its 4.127 inch stroke, you end up with an LS based 327 (ok, 329, but who's counting)... Theres a company out there call Cam Motion that makes solid roller cam kits for the LS. Throw in a set of AFR cylinder heads and you'll have an LS based, solid roller, 327 cu in, small block that will spin to 7500 RPM all day. Throw a rebuilt M21 behind it with a 3.70 rear and you have my personal dream car!!...its like a 4 wheel cafe racer....absolutely useless but amazingly fun to drive
#12
Le Mans Master
A follow up to my first response, as I got excited....the LS swap is a VERY, VERY expensive undertaking. My daily drive is a '72 C20 Suburban with an LS swap....the expense is in all the periphery, not in the motor. You're looking at 10K in fuel system, cooling system, accessory drive, ECU, wiring, motor mounts, trans adapters, trans cross member, drive shaft, exhaust system, etc.....and thats before you even take into account suspension and brake upgrades to handle the increase in power.
To be completely honest...I bought my C20 with the intent of building it into an LS based daily driver. I bought the truck for $9998. I've rebuilt every mechanical system in the truck in an effort to make it run and drive like a modern Suburban, while retaining the factory look, feel, and smell of a 70's SUV. Including the purchase price of the rust free, original truck, I've got almost 50K into the project over the course of 4 years.
I'm not trying ti discourage you, as I love the LS platform, and 5-600 horse power is entirely attainable. Just understand that for that level of power, you're looking at a 10-15K motor, and thats just the tip of the iceberg.
To be completely honest...I bought my C20 with the intent of building it into an LS based daily driver. I bought the truck for $9998. I've rebuilt every mechanical system in the truck in an effort to make it run and drive like a modern Suburban, while retaining the factory look, feel, and smell of a 70's SUV. Including the purchase price of the rust free, original truck, I've got almost 50K into the project over the course of 4 years.
I'm not trying ti discourage you, as I love the LS platform, and 5-600 horse power is entirely attainable. Just understand that for that level of power, you're looking at a 10-15K motor, and thats just the tip of the iceberg.
#13
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Crowd Plow For Now
make sure you have plenty of cooling options.....
#14
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Crowd Plow For Now
get with Mike Colletta here on the forum
#15
Team Owner
He does LS3 builds on Corvette Correction chassis. Pretty much of an integrated package with matched components. Miles different than cobbling together bits and pieces that may or may not survive big HP upgrades or get you put in the hospital.
#17
Race Director
I'm with the guys on this one. I made this mistake the first time I built my motor - too much power and torque for a 3000 pound car. There is something about the weight and geometry of these cars that starts to get dangerous above 400bhp. Plus, so many ujoints to replace...Even now with a milder cam, smaller carb, etc, I'm near 400 at the flywheel and it's hard to handle if driving aggressively. Plenty oversteer. Plus, as a convertible, lots of torque twists the frame like nuts.
I've done a lot of work on the frame and suspension to make it work amd it's still a handful. Sometimes I don't drive it because I'm tired and it takes effort to drive - you can't really relax. Add the suspension and side pipes and after about 100 miles you will cry for your mama.
I think 350-390-400 bhp is about the limit with more or less stock chassis. I have composite spring, Koni classic adjustables, "grand touring" front springs (330 ft lbs I think - can't remember), poly bushings and body mounts and plenty (too much) anti-sway. Plus chassis reinforcements, heavy duty ujoints and hardened axles (twisted originals).
One more thing, any amount of moisture on the road increases pucker factor by 10X.
When I blow this engine, (when, not if) I'm going with the milder 350 bhp crate motor.
I've done a lot of work on the frame and suspension to make it work amd it's still a handful. Sometimes I don't drive it because I'm tired and it takes effort to drive - you can't really relax. Add the suspension and side pipes and after about 100 miles you will cry for your mama.
I think 350-390-400 bhp is about the limit with more or less stock chassis. I have composite spring, Koni classic adjustables, "grand touring" front springs (330 ft lbs I think - can't remember), poly bushings and body mounts and plenty (too much) anti-sway. Plus chassis reinforcements, heavy duty ujoints and hardened axles (twisted originals).
One more thing, any amount of moisture on the road increases pucker factor by 10X.
When I blow this engine, (when, not if) I'm going with the milder 350 bhp crate motor.
Last edited by TJefferson2020; 04-04-2017 at 11:26 PM.
#18
Drifting
Nope, I disagree...it doesn't matter how little or much horse power...a guy can tear up a car with a 300 base motor just the same.
500-600hp can be done easily and if you don't drive the car like a douche bag you won't break rear ends or require suspension mods.
That said, I do recommend a transmission upgrade to a TKO600. I have had 550hp 383s in C2s and C3s, backed by TKO600s and 3:73 gears with stock suspension/rears and the cars were a ton of fun and no disaster struck. I didn't do drag strip launches, etc...I drove the cars responsibly on the street.
Look at the LS3 525hp motor... You will be fine...its been done on this forum before. I do agree it will cost you about $15K to swap to an LS plus another $5ish-K for the transmission. So figure about $20K with you doing ALL the work.
Another way to go is a stroked big block...go with aluminum heads and intake and it will help keep the weight down but the car will be nose heavy. Would cost a little less than an LS swap...but you still need headers, pulleys, water pump, and possibly a new radiator depending on what you have now.
Fun, Fun, Fun!
500-600hp can be done easily and if you don't drive the car like a douche bag you won't break rear ends or require suspension mods.
That said, I do recommend a transmission upgrade to a TKO600. I have had 550hp 383s in C2s and C3s, backed by TKO600s and 3:73 gears with stock suspension/rears and the cars were a ton of fun and no disaster struck. I didn't do drag strip launches, etc...I drove the cars responsibly on the street.
Look at the LS3 525hp motor... You will be fine...its been done on this forum before. I do agree it will cost you about $15K to swap to an LS plus another $5ish-K for the transmission. So figure about $20K with you doing ALL the work.
Another way to go is a stroked big block...go with aluminum heads and intake and it will help keep the weight down but the car will be nose heavy. Would cost a little less than an LS swap...but you still need headers, pulleys, water pump, and possibly a new radiator depending on what you have now.
Fun, Fun, Fun!
#19
Team Owner
I would be hard put to tear much up with my 63 250hp mill but I guess its possible.
Just seems sorta silly to put more HP into a chassis that limits your use of it. The whole point of such an upgrade is so that you can, "...drive like a douche bag"...
Just seems sorta silly to put more HP into a chassis that limits your use of it. The whole point of such an upgrade is so that you can, "...drive like a douche bag"...
#20
Drifting
Well then, have at it...