Engine will not run
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 2
From: Washington, MI.
Engine will not run
1966 Corvette Coupe. While driving, engine stopped running. Appears to be fuel starvation as when cranking, engine will fire but will not run. Have ascertained fuel delivery is adequate.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 59
From: FL
As a friend has stated many times, it only takes three things for an engine to run:
- air
- fuel
- fire
All you have to do is find which is missing.
Air is easy. Pull the air cleaner off and see if it runs. If so, replace air cleaner element.
Fuel is easy. After cranking, remove air cleaner, look down the throat, and pump the throttle lever a few times. If you don't see fuel squirting, then you have a problem.
Fire is easy. Pull a plug wire, use a wire or screwdriver up in the plug and hold it close to metal like the engine. Crank and look for spark. (The old joke was to hold the screwdriver by the metal and then crank. You know immediately if there is fire.)
Fuel is narrowed quickly.
- Is there gas in the tank?
- Pull the gas line from the carb. Stick in a 16 oz Coke bottle. Crank the engine for a few seconds. It should fill the bottle in just a few seconds with gas. If not, replace fuel pump.
-- It is possible in these old cars for the fuel line pickup sock to be plugged. Pull fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump and see if fuel runs out. If not, you need to replace the pickup sock.
- If there is gas at the line, the carb has a problem. It could be a stuck needle and seat or a stuck float.
Fire is easy on these old points ignition cars. A test light on the Plus (+) side of the coil with ignition switch on should be on and steady. Not real bright but on.
-- If not, there is a wire from the firewall resistor. Check there.
Hit start. It should get brighter.
-- If not, there is a purple wire from the starter to check. It is the outside wire on the solenoid.
If the light works on the Plus side of the coil, check the Negative side of the coil. It should flash as you crank the engine. If not, points are the problem.
- air
- fuel
- fire
All you have to do is find which is missing.
Air is easy. Pull the air cleaner off and see if it runs. If so, replace air cleaner element.
Fuel is easy. After cranking, remove air cleaner, look down the throat, and pump the throttle lever a few times. If you don't see fuel squirting, then you have a problem.
Fire is easy. Pull a plug wire, use a wire or screwdriver up in the plug and hold it close to metal like the engine. Crank and look for spark. (The old joke was to hold the screwdriver by the metal and then crank. You know immediately if there is fire.)
Fuel is narrowed quickly.
- Is there gas in the tank?
- Pull the gas line from the carb. Stick in a 16 oz Coke bottle. Crank the engine for a few seconds. It should fill the bottle in just a few seconds with gas. If not, replace fuel pump.
-- It is possible in these old cars for the fuel line pickup sock to be plugged. Pull fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump and see if fuel runs out. If not, you need to replace the pickup sock.
- If there is gas at the line, the carb has a problem. It could be a stuck needle and seat or a stuck float.
Fire is easy on these old points ignition cars. A test light on the Plus (+) side of the coil with ignition switch on should be on and steady. Not real bright but on.
-- If not, there is a wire from the firewall resistor. Check there.
Hit start. It should get brighter.
-- If not, there is a purple wire from the starter to check. It is the outside wire on the solenoid.
If the light works on the Plus side of the coil, check the Negative side of the coil. It should flash as you crank the engine. If not, points are the problem.
Last edited by Mark_Milner; Jun 15, 2017 at 04:55 PM. Reason: Emphasis the obvious
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 59
From: FL
Reread your post. If it starts but won't run after you release the key, then the resistor/wire from the resistor/ignition switch are bad.
Use the test light to see where power is lost on that combo and fix what is broken.
Use the test light to see where power is lost on that combo and fix what is broken.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,145
Army
Those are really sparse symptoms...
You can run a jumper from the "+" battery terminal to the "+" ignition coil terminal TEMPORARILY; if the car starts and runs you have a problem in the dash wiring, ballast resistor or ignition switch...
You can run a jumper from the "+" battery terminal to the "+" ignition coil terminal TEMPORARILY; if the car starts and runs you have a problem in the dash wiring, ballast resistor or ignition switch...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 15, 2017 at 04:28 PM.
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He said it was fuel starvation. That was before he said it wasn't.
I'd solve that mystery first and if that wasn't the problem, I'd go buy a 12 volt test light and check the things mentioned above.
I'd solve that mystery first and if that wasn't the problem, I'd go buy a 12 volt test light and check the things mentioned above.
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No, he’s new to forums and their user interfaces - he thought he’s responded but live / learn. He will figure it out ( his user error ) but problem still exists with the car. He’s been extremely appreciative of the guidance shared thus far. I’ve asked him if he might have upset the ignition wiring when he took dash out over winter to restore the cluster - lots of could be’s he’s got to spend time tinkering.
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Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Washington MI
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Wilton Ca.
Gary
