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. . Ok, , All sorts of new steering parts, rebuilt steering gear box, go in for alignment and they say they can't get any more adjustment on the caster. . Right side is a -0.1 and the left side is -1.9 . . . . Asked if it had ever hit something. . The time I've had it, No. . The other 55 years, who knows. . . . They measured the frame but could not see anything. . Though maybe it might be the cross member itself. . . . Any thoughts ? ?
Toe-in (Per Wheel)…..1/16” -0
Toe out on Turns
Inner Wheel……20° + - 2°
Outer Wheel 24° + - 2°
Normal toe in spec (with bias ply tires) was 1/8" to 1/4" total toe.
With radials I use 1/8" total toe, (1/16" per wheel).
You will be "lucky" to obtain 2 deg. caster (get as much as you can), and keep the tires at as close as possible to zero camber.
King pin inclination is measured doing the caster cut (side to side steering measurement) on the turn plates. You do the caster cut, center the steering wheel, and you'll get the caster, camber, and toe, plus king pin inclination (Steering Axis Inclination is the term used since the '60's). It is not adjustable, and variance is indicative of a bent part, usually a steering arm.
. . Specs I have. . Hoping someone had a correction for this. . Was thinking maybe shim the control arm ? ? Or maybe the whole cross member itself ? ? . . Be easy enough to try, if I had an alignment rack to check each adjustment. . . . Be a bit expensive running back to the alignment shop to see where it's at each time. .
You DO know about the adjustment cam behind the grease fitting at the rear of the steering knuckle, don't you? That is used to set camber and, I think, caster as well.
You DO know about the adjustment cam behind the grease fitting at the rear of the steering knuckle, don't you? That is used to set camber and, I think, caster as well.
Yes, that's how to set the caster. Still, I couldn't get very much on my '56. Added the tapered shims to the crossmember- that helped some, but it's tough to get very much like radials need.
. . Yes, very familiar but the adjustments are maxed out. . I took it to Merrill Frame and Axle in Lakewood. . They worked on it for three hours trying to get anything more. .
The reason I posted the specs is because of this statement that you may have missed.
"You will be "lucky" to obtain 2 deg. caster (get as much as you can), and keep the tires at as close as possible to zero camber."
I think it is just the nature of the beast but if you come up with a "fix" I would like to hear about as I too run radials.
You may be better off putting the tapered shim in the cross member and equalizing the caster to get to zero cross caster. The car will pull to the left with the current settings.
. . Tell me more about shimming your cross member. . Since my left side is so much farther out I was thinking of shimming just one side. .
No, doing just one side will cause something to twist, either the cross member or the car frame, and maybe throw the body out of wack.
Shim both sides and then even up the caster so both sides are the same.
. . Ok, now I am confused. . I was assuming you were putting shims of some sort just on each side of the rear of the cross member so as to move the bottom of the wheel forward. . . . Is the shim pictured tapered or are you just moving the cross member down evenly ? ?
. .OK, Just saw the web address and read the description on the part. . Looks like what I needed all along. . . . Surprised the alignment shop was not familiar with these. .
. .OK, Just saw the web address and read the description on the part. . Looks like what I needed all along. . . . Surprised the alignment shop was not familiar with these. .
I suspect there is next to no one working in any of these 'alignment' shops that even know much about these ancient front ends....
and i'm sure even less know that there are special tools to bend the spindle supports if there is not enough adjustment for camber...
I suspect there is next to no one working in any of these 'alignment' shops that even know much about these ancient front ends....
and i'm sure even less know that there are special tools to bend the spindle supports if there is not enough adjustment for camber...
Bill
EXACTLY!
And you better print out and take the specs with you. Remember these car are old enough to be the grandpa of some of the guys doing your alignment today.
. . Ok, Getting a lot better understanding about these things. . Saw the GM part number and checked a bit more and found these shims are a standard part of the cross member mount. . Looked closer at mine and each side has one. . . . Been talking with a Corvette shop in Denver (Corvette Connection) and he said neither he nor his C1 customers had any idea what I was talking about until I forwarded the Corvette Central page to him. . . . So how many shims did you have to stack to eventually be able to get the positive 2 caster ? ?
. . Ok, Getting a lot better understanding about these things. . Saw the GM part number and checked a bit more and found these shims are a standard part of the cross member mount. . Looked closer at mine and each side has one. . . . Been talking with a Corvette shop in Denver (Corvette Connection) and he said neither he nor his C1 customers had any idea what I was talking about until I forwarded the Corvette Central page to him. . . . So how many shims did you have to stack to eventually be able to get the positive 2 caster ? ?
If each shim is 2 degrees by itself....so I would "guess" a pair should do it (one for each side).
But nowhere have I seen it listed that those shims are actually 2 deg., so I would measure them first, before installing.......
I used a different method (offset the A-arm shafts and bushings), when I rebuilt my front end, but the addition of a pair of shims is the easiest method. Running 3 degrees caster is much nicer......and I can still maneuver at slow speeds, even with a "damaged" left hand.
plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; Jul 1, 2017 at 11:14 PM.
. . Ok, Getting a lot better understanding about these things. . Saw the GM part number and checked a bit more and found these shims are a standard part of the cross member mount. . Looked closer at mine and each side has one. . . . Been talking with a Corvette shop in Denver (Corvette Connection) and he said neither he nor his C1 customers had any idea what I was talking about until I forwarded the Corvette Central page to him. . . . So how many shims did you have to stack to eventually be able to get the positive 2 caster ? ?
If you do the math on the shims you get about 1°. Last year I installed the steeroid System to get power steering, they do not recommend more than two shims per side. Two shim's should give you approximately 2°.
Last edited by 62-C1; Jul 1, 2017 at 11:17 PM.
Reason: spelling