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Well, the time has come for me to upgrade the engine in my '66. I'm getting tired of using 100 octane race fuel in it at $9.50/gal to keep it from pinging. I'll be reducing compression from 12 to 10, and increasing lift, flow, and displacement.
Total Engine Cost Including Upgrades
Used the software I developed and validated from LS-7 and LS-9 engine performance and others, that I give away for free on my website www.EngineBuilderProfessional.com
Last edited by bdhulderman; Nov 23, 2017 at 03:22 PM.
Reason: more info
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Big Block?
Coincidence that I've been reading up on big inch small blocks since I picked up a standard bore 400" block.
Lingenfelter (RIP) limited his builds to 420" using 5.85" rods and 3.85" stroke. More stroke tightens the ring pack and shorter rods create accelerated cylinders wear. Also compromises the pan rail sealing for clearancing.
For more displacement a 496" BB doesn't have any of those issues and can be built for much less. They have much better flowing heads to. They do weight something like 80 lbs more though.
I guess what I'm saying here is motors with tight ring packs and short rods are not street motors with reasonable street life - more of a race only/show only toy.
I see you have good experience with big inch small blocks Brandnt so I'm sure you know what you want but I just wanted to put this out there for you to consider. Not wanting to flame anyone.
Good luck and hope this can help.
Last edited by cardo0; Jul 8, 2017 at 01:01 PM.
Reason: Typo.
Coincidence that I've been reading up on big inch small blocks since I picked up a standard bore 400" block.
Lingenfelter (RIP) limited his builds to 420" using 5.85" rods and 3.85" stroke. More stroke tightens the ring pack and shorter rods create accelerated cylinders wear. Also compromises the pan rail sealing for clearancing.
For more displacement a 496" BB doesn't have any of those issues and can be built for much less. They have much better flowing heads to. They do weight something like 80 lbs more though.
I guess what I'm saying here is motors with tight ring packs and short rods are not street motors with reasonable street life - more of a race only/show only toy.
I see you have good experience with big inch small blocks Brandnt so I'm sure you know what you want but I just wanted to put this out there for you to consider. Not wanting to flame anyone.
Good luck and hope this can help.
Good point, yes, if I ever built a big block, I'd go with all aluminum to reduce the weight. For sure, neither one of my vette's are commuter cars, but are more for enjoyment and show. Can't wait to take this one down the track though just to see what it can do.
While you can build a large cubic inch in a standard deck height small block you really should seriously consider using a tall deck block if you have your heart set on a 454 ci small block. This helps rod to stroke ratios & ring pack heights. But it requires some specialized parts to properly put the whole package together.
While you can build a large cubic inch in a standard deck height small block you really should seriously consider using a tall deck block if you have your heart set on a 454 ci small block. This helps rod to stroke ratios & ring pack heights. But it requires some specialized parts to properly put the whole package together.
agreed, but not considering it
Last edited by bdhulderman; Jul 8, 2017 at 06:53 PM.
Reason: more info
That's a stout one with a serious valvetrain. Good move on the 50MM cam bearings. When would you think you'd want to move to a 3/8" pushrod? having any port work done to the intake?
I have to agree on the tall deck idea....or the 496....or a 555". Wouldn't be much difference in cost for the added power, simplicity or reliability.
But that one is going to be a heck of a lot of fun!
That's a stout one with a serious valvetrain. Good move on the 50MM cam bearings. When would you think you'd want to move to a 3/8" pushrod? having any port work done to the intake?
I have to agree on the tall deck idea....or the 496....or a 555". Wouldn't be much difference in cost for the added power, simplicity or reliability.
But that one is going to be a heck of a lot of fun!
JIM
The 50mm is basically the only way I can get that much lift in the dart iron eagle block. It already has the .391 raised cam which helps out a lot for clearance for the 4.125 stroke crank and massive cam. Already on the 436 I've had to grind the block to allow clearance for the rotating assembly. These new rods have a clearance already built in, which should help for the new upgrade.
Engine Upgrade
