When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have some lateral movement on the block end . The block ball is not worn, is there a stop(bushing) for the ball to seat as in the frame side? I put new plastic bushings on the frame side, the block end of Z bar is sloppy on ball.
Jack, is it possible that you do not have the spring clip installed in the groove on the frame side of the Z-bar? The spring clip is what locks the two nylon bushings and the frame-side ball stud in place in the Z-bar.
This is the groove in the Z-bar on the frame side.
When assembled in order, the first nylon bushing is installed in the Z-bar, followed by the ball stud, followed by the second nylon bushing and then the spring clip. After that the felt washer, frame bracket, lock washer and nut are installed - in that order.
If assembled correctly this will lock the frame side of the Z-bar to the frame bracket and should prevent any lateral movement of the Z-bar.
Jack, is it possible that you do not have the spring clip installed in the groove on the frame side of the Z-bar? The spring clip is what locks the two nylon bushings and the frame-side ball stud in place in the Z-bar.
This is the groove in the Z-bar on the frame side.
When assembled in order, the first nylon bushing is installed in the Z-bar, followed by the ball stud, followed by the second nylon bushing and then the spring clip. After that the felt washer, frame bracket, lock washer and nut are installed - in that order.
If assembled correctly this will lock the frame side of the Z-bar to the frame bracket and should prevent any lateral movement of the Z-bar.
Good luck... GUSTO
Hi, no movement on the frame side, movement is on the block side, bar moves laterally on ball (socket too big, worn?)
Jack, I would check the diameter of the block ball against a new one before doing anything else. If it is good to go, you could have a machine shop insert a bushing in the z-bar to match the ball.
Heck even if the ball is worn, I'm sure a good machine shop could insert a bushing to make it fit correctly for less than the cost of a new Z-bar.
There has to be some clearance between the bull stud and Z bar due to the engine torqueing over when mashing the gas pedal. This rubber "seal" keeps it from rattling. Do you have this?
Jackfit - I am willing to bet you are the one guy on the forum to who drives his car the most...I've followed and admired how much you drive your car.
Therefore, it wouldn't surprise me of you have worn out both the Z bar and the ball stud. For you, I'd also recommend checking the rest of the linkage parts for worn/egg-shaped holes.
Maybe try replacing the bushing on the ball stud shoulder first. If that doesn't work, swap the Z Bar...if still not resolved, then replace the ball stud.
The good news is that a new Z bar and ball stud are cheap and easy to replace.
Last edited by Crunch527; Jul 22, 2017 at 06:25 AM.
There has to be some clearance between the bull stud and Z bar due to the engine torqueing over when mashing the gas pedal. This rubber "seal" keeps it from rattling. Do you have this?
Hi, yes, I put a new one on a few months ago, I replaced the standard rods with Hiem ends. No slop in rods. I will take it apart today to see what's the problem with the block end of Zbar
Hi, yes, I put a new one on a few months ago, I replaced the standard rods with Hiem ends. No slop in rods. I will take it apart today to see what's the problem with the block end of Zbar
Jack, that is some nice hardware.
Did you make it yourself, or purchase it from someone? Do you have some specifications?
Hi, this unit is made for 64-65 Corvettes with a 11" clutch fork rod. 66-67 need a 9" rod & have a different ZBar. I had to shorten each rod and retap..them. Right hand and left hand threads.
Jackfit, I went out and grabbed my new z-bar which is on a new ball stud, and found it had a little play. I then turned on the lights and put on my glasses. Turned out I had pushed the seal off when installing the z-bar. Maybe something simple like this in your case.
Hi, this unit is made for 64-65 Corvettes with a 11" clutch fork rod. 66-67 need a 9" rod & have a different ZBar. I had to shorten each rod and retap..them. Right hand and left hand threads.
Jack
You are a Hot Rodder at heart. Make it better. Of course those joints still need lubrication.
Check our the ID of the Z-bar. Thinking you did not have this problem from the improvement over the GM design.
I would like to thank all for their suggestions. I took the Z bar off the car and discovered the problem, problems.
All caused by me a few months ago when I installed the heim clutch rods.
I did not tighten the block ball enough. At the time the engine was hot and it was difficult to get the 5/8 wrench on ball slot, so it was not tight
Next, I had the locking tab on the inside of frame gustet, so nut would loosen . Forgot to look at picture at the time.
I also installed a new rubber seal on the clutch fork and it was not seated properly and kept the clutch fork from returning all the way, that lead me to some lack of free play.
I reinstalled all parts properly, adjusted the rods, and now all is well.
Remember if you make the upgrade, it only fits 64/65 unless you shorten rods.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Z Bar Question
Hi, yes, I put a new one on a few months ago, I replaced the standard rods with Hiem ends. No slop in rods. I will take it apart today to see what's the problem with the block end of Zbar
Of course those joints still need lubrication.