3367 Carb Help
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
3367 Carb Help
Attached please find a picture showing where the manifold port has been plugged. Can I easily remove the plug and insert a barbed fitting?
If so where would I find the correct fitting? I have searched the internet without success.
Regards.
manifold port missing and plugged
If so where would I find the correct fitting? I have searched the internet without success.
Regards.
manifold port missing and plugged
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 48,984
Received 6,928 Likes
on
4,774 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
I'm not seeing any plug.
#3
Drifting
I believe this is the tube you need. Can't see enough of what the plug might consist of to advise on removing. Are you planning to do it via benchwork, or with carb installed? Maybe an ez-out extractor.
http://www.chicagocorvette.net/item....m=7449&rc=1437
http://www.chicagocorvette.net/item....m=7449&rc=1437
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I believe this is the tube you need. Can't see enough of what the plug might consist of to advise on removing. Are you planning to do it via benchwork, or with carb installed? Maybe an ez-out extractor.
http://www.chicagocorvette.net/item....m=7449&rc=1437
http://www.chicagocorvette.net/item....m=7449&rc=1437
Is this a press fit or put just a small dab of sealant before I insert it?
Since it is small thought I would punch a small hole, thread a screw in it and try to pull it out.
It is my understanding this is a manifold vacuum port that the vacuum can should be attached to.
#5
Le Mans Master
That is the location for manifold vacuum.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 48,984
Received 6,928 Likes
on
4,774 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Do you have the correct base plate.
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here is a closeup. I believe I have the correct base plate. Car was running hot so I changed the radiator out and was not happy with the results. Then checked timing and no vacuum to the advance can as it was attached to the front metering block that had NO vacuum.
Minus the 215 degree running temperature the car runs great.
Minus the 215 degree running temperature the car runs great.
#9
That looks like tapped hole and a Allen screw, try a allen wrench to loosen the plug and see if it moves out. If it comes out see if the hole has been drilled out to a larger size and post a picture.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Is it easier to replace the base plate or purchase a new reproduction 3367 Holley?
#11
It's possibly there is some loctite on the plug. I was going to suggest heat with a propane torch until I remembered it's a carburetor.
Don't give up on it, take it to a machine shop after removing the throttle body from the main body. Take the correct fitting and they will fix you up, it's buckets cheaper than any other options.
Don't give up on it, take it to a machine shop after removing the throttle body from the main body. Take the correct fitting and they will fix you up, it's buckets cheaper than any other options.
#12
Le Mans Master
I would, first, remove the carburetor from the intake manifold and work on that allen screw on your workbench. It appears to be brass so it will be rather soft. Be sure you have the correct size allen wrench and, then, have at it. Worse case scenario, you may have to drill it out. You can then order the small tube that Vark recommended and JB weld it in place.
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2015
Location: Really Central IL Illinois
Posts: 5,196
Received 1,533 Likes
on
1,035 Posts
Warm the car up first. Aluminum has a greater coefficient of expansion than brass.
Then, try to remove the plug. A tap with a hammer on the allen wrench may help break the bond between the aluminum and the brass. I have 3/8 drive sockets with Allens, might be tougher with a standard allen wrench.
You might try to tighten if first, and then loosen it. Sometimes that works.
You will probably have to find a threaded fitting to put in the hole, so save the plug for a reference. I don't think the press in fitting will hold anymore.
Good luck.
Then, try to remove the plug. A tap with a hammer on the allen wrench may help break the bond between the aluminum and the brass. I have 3/8 drive sockets with Allens, might be tougher with a standard allen wrench.
You might try to tighten if first, and then loosen it. Sometimes that works.
You will probably have to find a threaded fitting to put in the hole, so save the plug for a reference. I don't think the press in fitting will hold anymore.
Good luck.
#14
Team Owner
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Coloring within the lines
Posts: 27,305
Received 1,919 Likes
on
1,332 Posts
Warm the car up first. Aluminum has a greater coefficient of expansion than brass.
Then, try to remove the plug. A tap with a hammer on the allen wrench may help break the bond between the aluminum and the brass. I have 3/8 drive sockets with Allens, might be tougher with a standard allen wrench.
You might try to tighten if first, and then loosen it. Sometimes that works.
You will probably have to find a threaded fitting to put in the hole, so save the plug for a reference. I don't think the press in fitting will hold anymore.
Good luck.
Then, try to remove the plug. A tap with a hammer on the allen wrench may help break the bond between the aluminum and the brass. I have 3/8 drive sockets with Allens, might be tougher with a standard allen wrench.
You might try to tighten if first, and then loosen it. Sometimes that works.
You will probably have to find a threaded fitting to put in the hole, so save the plug for a reference. I don't think the press in fitting will hold anymore.
Good luck.
I would shoot some PB Blaster on it first.
Agree with trying to tighten (slightly) first, but not enough to slip the allen in the head.
If the allen wrench from the get go has more than 5 degrees of free play, you may have the wrong size. Most are metric now, but when new were SAE size. Some metric to SAE allens "feel" like they're engaged when they too loose and will strip the head.
If it didn't come loose on the engine, I would remove the carb before any more invasive attempts to remove it.
Good luck.
#15
Instructor
I'm not familiar with the 3367 carb, however on my 3814, that port is ported vacuum. Flip the carb over and look to see how it is ported, if the path goes below the blade, great, that's manifold vacuum, if it's above (like mine) it's ported.
Why don't you just put a "T" into the vacuum pull off line, try it, and see if it gets you where your trying to go?
Why don't you just put a "T" into the vacuum pull off line, try it, and see if it gets you where your trying to go?