C1 & C2 Corvettes General C1 Corvette & C2 Corvette Discussion, Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Project Builds, Restorations

3367 Carb Help

Old 07-22-2017, 02:00 PM
  #1  
SoCalErv
Burning Brakes

Thread Starter
 
SoCalErv's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Posts: 1,081
Received 39 Likes on 35 Posts
Army

Default 3367 Carb Help

Attached please find a picture showing where the manifold port has been plugged. Can I easily remove the plug and insert a barbed fitting?

If so where would I find the correct fitting? I have searched the internet without success.

Regards.





manifold port missing and plugged
Old 07-22-2017, 02:08 PM
  #2  
Nowhere Man
Team Owner
 
Nowhere Man's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 48,984
Received 6,928 Likes on 4,774 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist

Default

I'm not seeing any plug.
Old 07-22-2017, 03:35 PM
  #3  
vark_wso
Drifting

 
vark_wso's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Black Forest CO
Posts: 1,802
Received 347 Likes on 241 Posts

Default

I believe this is the tube you need. Can't see enough of what the plug might consist of to advise on removing. Are you planning to do it via benchwork, or with carb installed? Maybe an ez-out extractor.

http://www.chicagocorvette.net/item....m=7449&rc=1437
Old 07-22-2017, 04:47 PM
  #4  
SoCalErv
Burning Brakes

Thread Starter
 
SoCalErv's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Posts: 1,081
Received 39 Likes on 35 Posts
Army

Default

Originally Posted by vark_wso
I believe this is the tube you need. Can't see enough of what the plug might consist of to advise on removing. Are you planning to do it via benchwork, or with carb installed? Maybe an ez-out extractor.

http://www.chicagocorvette.net/item....m=7449&rc=1437
The plug is just left of the front attaching bolt to the manifold.

Is this a press fit or put just a small dab of sealant before I insert it?

Since it is small thought I would punch a small hole, thread a screw in it and try to pull it out.

It is my understanding this is a manifold vacuum port that the vacuum can should be attached to.
Old 07-22-2017, 05:22 PM
  #5  
leif.anderson93
Le Mans Master

 
leif.anderson93's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2014
Location: Richardson Texas
Posts: 6,464
Received 3,091 Likes on 1,860 Posts

Default

That is the location for manifold vacuum.
Attached Images   
Old 07-22-2017, 06:00 PM
  #6  
SoCalErv
Burning Brakes

Thread Starter
 
SoCalErv's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Posts: 1,081
Received 39 Likes on 35 Posts
Army

Default

Originally Posted by leif.anderson93
That is the location for manifold vacuum.

You are referring to the fitting on the far right correct?

I am missing that fitting and the hole is plugged.
Old 07-22-2017, 06:12 PM
  #7  
Nowhere Man
Team Owner
 
Nowhere Man's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 48,984
Received 6,928 Likes on 4,774 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist

Default

Do you have the correct base plate.
Old 07-22-2017, 06:33 PM
  #8  
SoCalErv
Burning Brakes

Thread Starter
 
SoCalErv's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Posts: 1,081
Received 39 Likes on 35 Posts
Army

Default

Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Do you have the correct base plate.
Here is a closeup. I believe I have the correct base plate. Car was running hot so I changed the radiator out and was not happy with the results. Then checked timing and no vacuum to the advance can as it was attached to the front metering block that had NO vacuum.

Minus the 215 degree running temperature the car runs great.


Old 07-22-2017, 06:41 PM
  #9  
tbarb
Safety Car
 
tbarb's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2014
Posts: 3,536
Received 562 Likes on 479 Posts
Default

That looks like tapped hole and a Allen screw, try a allen wrench to loosen the plug and see if it moves out. If it comes out see if the hole has been drilled out to a larger size and post a picture.
Old 07-22-2017, 07:05 PM
  #10  
SoCalErv
Burning Brakes

Thread Starter
 
SoCalErv's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Native Californian CALIFORNIA
Posts: 1,081
Received 39 Likes on 35 Posts
Army

Default

Originally Posted by tbarb
That looks like tapped hole and a Allen screw, try a allen wrench to loosen the plug and see if it moves out. If it comes out see if the hole has been drilled out to a larger size and post a picture.
Yes it is an allen screw. Tried to unscrew and it would not loosen under moderate pressure. Concerned if I force it I will have more problems than I already do.

Is it easier to replace the base plate or purchase a new reproduction 3367 Holley?
Old 07-22-2017, 07:16 PM
  #11  
tbarb
Safety Car
 
tbarb's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2014
Posts: 3,536
Received 562 Likes on 479 Posts
Default

It's possibly there is some loctite on the plug. I was going to suggest heat with a propane torch until I remembered it's a carburetor.

Don't give up on it, take it to a machine shop after removing the throttle body from the main body. Take the correct fitting and they will fix you up, it's buckets cheaper than any other options.
Old 07-22-2017, 07:24 PM
  #12  
leif.anderson93
Le Mans Master

 
leif.anderson93's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2014
Location: Richardson Texas
Posts: 6,464
Received 3,091 Likes on 1,860 Posts

Default

I would, first, remove the carburetor from the intake manifold and work on that allen screw on your workbench. It appears to be brass so it will be rather soft. Be sure you have the correct size allen wrench and, then, have at it. Worse case scenario, you may have to drill it out. You can then order the small tube that Vark recommended and JB weld it in place.
Old 07-22-2017, 10:40 PM
  #13  
R66
Le Mans Master
 
R66's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2015
Location: Really Central IL Illinois
Posts: 5,196
Received 1,533 Likes on 1,035 Posts
Default

Warm the car up first. Aluminum has a greater coefficient of expansion than brass.
Then, try to remove the plug. A tap with a hammer on the allen wrench may help break the bond between the aluminum and the brass. I have 3/8 drive sockets with Allens, might be tougher with a standard allen wrench.
You might try to tighten if first, and then loosen it. Sometimes that works.
You will probably have to find a threaded fitting to put in the hole, so save the plug for a reference. I don't think the press in fitting will hold anymore.

Good luck.
Old 07-23-2017, 12:27 PM
  #14  
Easy Rhino
Team Owner

 
Easy Rhino's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Coloring within the lines
Posts: 27,305
Received 1,919 Likes on 1,332 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by R66
Warm the car up first. Aluminum has a greater coefficient of expansion than brass.
Then, try to remove the plug. A tap with a hammer on the allen wrench may help break the bond between the aluminum and the brass. I have 3/8 drive sockets with Allens, might be tougher with a standard allen wrench.
You might try to tighten if first, and then loosen it. Sometimes that works.
You will probably have to find a threaded fitting to put in the hole, so save the plug for a reference. I don't think the press in fitting will hold anymore.

Good luck.
The heat of a fully warmed up engine should be all the heat you need, it will expand the aluminum more than brass (or steel if that is a zinc-anodized screw). Even better if you let it heat soak a few moments after shutting the engine down.

I would shoot some PB Blaster on it first.

Agree with trying to tighten (slightly) first, but not enough to slip the allen in the head.

If the allen wrench from the get go has more than 5 degrees of free play, you may have the wrong size. Most are metric now, but when new were SAE size. Some metric to SAE allens "feel" like they're engaged when they too loose and will strip the head.

If it didn't come loose on the engine, I would remove the carb before any more invasive attempts to remove it.

Good luck.
Old 07-23-2017, 12:52 PM
  #15  
ELEFUNTMAN
Instructor
 
ELEFUNTMAN's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2015
Location: SouthWest Mancave California
Posts: 164
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

I'm not familiar with the 3367 carb, however on my 3814, that port is ported vacuum. Flip the carb over and look to see how it is ported, if the path goes below the blade, great, that's manifold vacuum, if it's above (like mine) it's ported.

Why don't you just put a "T" into the vacuum pull off line, try it, and see if it gets you where your trying to go?

Get notified of new replies

To 3367 Carb Help



Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 3367 Carb Help



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:46 AM.