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I believe this is the tube you need. Can't see enough of what the plug might consist of to advise on removing. Are you planning to do it via benchwork, or with carb installed? Maybe an ez-out extractor.
I believe this is the tube you need. Can't see enough of what the plug might consist of to advise on removing. Are you planning to do it via benchwork, or with carb installed? Maybe an ez-out extractor.
Here is a closeup. I believe I have the correct base plate. Car was running hot so I changed the radiator out and was not happy with the results. Then checked timing and no vacuum to the advance can as it was attached to the front metering block that had NO vacuum.
Minus the 215 degree running temperature the car runs great.
That looks like tapped hole and a Allen screw, try a allen wrench to loosen the plug and see if it moves out. If it comes out see if the hole has been drilled out to a larger size and post a picture.
That looks like tapped hole and a Allen screw, try a allen wrench to loosen the plug and see if it moves out. If it comes out see if the hole has been drilled out to a larger size and post a picture.
Yes it is an allen screw. Tried to unscrew and it would not loosen under moderate pressure. Concerned if I force it I will have more problems than I already do.
Is it easier to replace the base plate or purchase a new reproduction 3367 Holley?
It's possibly there is some loctite on the plug. I was going to suggest heat with a propane torch until I remembered it's a carburetor.
Don't give up on it, take it to a machine shop after removing the throttle body from the main body. Take the correct fitting and they will fix you up, it's buckets cheaper than any other options.
I would, first, remove the carburetor from the intake manifold and work on that allen screw on your workbench. It appears to be brass so it will be rather soft. Be sure you have the correct size allen wrench and, then, have at it. Worse case scenario, you may have to drill it out. You can then order the small tube that Vark recommended and JB weld it in place.
Warm the car up first. Aluminum has a greater coefficient of expansion than brass.
Then, try to remove the plug. A tap with a hammer on the allen wrench may help break the bond between the aluminum and the brass. I have 3/8 drive sockets with Allens, might be tougher with a standard allen wrench.
You might try to tighten if first, and then loosen it. Sometimes that works.
You will probably have to find a threaded fitting to put in the hole, so save the plug for a reference. I don't think the press in fitting will hold anymore.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by R66
Warm the car up first. Aluminum has a greater coefficient of expansion than brass.
Then, try to remove the plug. A tap with a hammer on the allen wrench may help break the bond between the aluminum and the brass. I have 3/8 drive sockets with Allens, might be tougher with a standard allen wrench.
You might try to tighten if first, and then loosen it. Sometimes that works.
You will probably have to find a threaded fitting to put in the hole, so save the plug for a reference. I don't think the press in fitting will hold anymore.
Good luck.
The heat of a fully warmed up engine should be all the heat you need, it will expand the aluminum more than brass (or steel if that is a zinc-anodized screw). Even better if you let it heat soak a few moments after shutting the engine down.
I would shoot some PB Blaster on it first.
Agree with trying to tighten (slightly) first, but not enough to slip the allen in the head.
If the allen wrench from the get go has more than 5 degrees of free play, you may have the wrong size. Most are metric now, but when new were SAE size. Some metric to SAE allens "feel" like they're engaged when they too loose and will strip the head.
If it didn't come loose on the engine, I would remove the carb before any more invasive attempts to remove it.
I'm not familiar with the 3367 carb, however on my 3814, that port is ported vacuum. Flip the carb over and look to see how it is ported, if the path goes below the blade, great, that's manifold vacuum, if it's above (like mine) it's ported.
Why don't you just put a "T" into the vacuum pull off line, try it, and see if it gets you where your trying to go?
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3367 Carb Help
