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Today I ord. The Ebay kit. I called Mike (Seller) to confirm that the kit would be OK with stock stl. Wheels & he confirmed they are OK & no mods req'd.
He suggested a '67 or later dual master for the set-up. What suggestions there?
Today I ord. The Ebay kit. I called Mike (Seller) to confirm that the kit would be OK with stock stl. Wheels & he confirmed they are OK & no mods req'd.
He suggested a '67 or later dual master for the set-up. What suggestions there?
Thanx Again,
Russ
I emailed him and he told me the same thing about the M/C....he says you don't always need a proportioning valve but can get one separately.
My '61 disc brake conversion didn't have one and stopped perfectly - which some refuse to believe and have slammed me about it.
I emailed him and he told me the same thing about the M/C....he says you don't always need a proportioning valve but can get one separately.
My '61 disc brake conversion didn't have one and stopped perfectly - which some refuse to believe and have slammed me about it.
I have the same kit on my 64, with a dual master, a 10# residual valve and a proportioning valve for the rears. If I want to have the rears lock up at about the same time as the fronts, I need to dial the valve to its minimal setting. So without the valve the rears would lock too soon.
The threat mentioned earlier here reports some of my findings. I had some issues to fit my bolt on KOs, but all resolved. Very happy with it. I just could not get used to the drums.
I have the same kit on my 64, with a dual master, a 10# residual valve and a proportioning valve for the rears. If I want to have the rears lock up at about the same time as the fronts, I need to dial the valve to its minimal setting. So without the valve the rears would lock too soon.
The threat mentioned earlier here reports some of my findings. I had some issues to fit my bolt on KOs, but all resolved. Very happy with it. I just could not get used to the drums.
My '64 has front disks from a '77 and when I put on the '70s Corvette manual brake, dual M/C, initially I put in the 10# residual valve, but no proportioning valve.
TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE! The rears would lock up way before the fronts and it wasn't safe.
I put a Tilton under the dash and run the rears on "5" of "7" with each number resulting in further reduction.
quote: You can get the wilwood conversion for around 750-800.
that is what I used on my 63 fronts and you can use the stock steel wheels
Just for the record, the factory 63-64 style steel wheels did not clear my wilwood conversion kit, even with the spacers. However, we were never planning to install stock wheels, so it did not matter.
The front wheels only I assume ?
Most don't want to get into dealing with the rear wheels and parking brake mess..
Correct for the wilwood I mentioned at around $800 and the Van Steel Kit, which looks to just be a stock 65 up disc set up at $1300. Obviously if someone just wants to convert to a 65 later set up, they are readily available all over eBay for cheap. Due to time limitations, I did not feel like reconditioning and sourcing parts, so i bought the wilwood kit. However, with that said, the wilwood kit requires the stock 63-64 spindle and steering arm to be reused, so there will be some reconditioning work involved.
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TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE! The rears would lock up way before the fronts and it wasn't safe.
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As described in my earlier post, same experience as I had.
Installing a 2lbs residual pressure valve in the fronts will probably have them come in earlier so help avoiding too early rear lock.
Just for the record, the factory 63-64 style steel wheels did not clear my wilwood conversion kit, even with the spacers. However, we were never planning to install stock wheels, so it did not matter.
Interesting as my stock wheels did clear with the spacer supplied in the kit.