skids

The pilot bearing is new and bronze.
Do you mean pilot bushing? The last pilot bushing I mistakeingly installed also was bronze, but not oilite, and had the same symptoms. just a thought.

karkrafter

I replaced my TO bearing...noise went away for a week...pulled it back apart and installed an OILITE pilot bushing....so far so good quiet....

JohnZ

That's why I've published the diagram below many dozens of times here over the last 15 years.

alexandervdr

And cause I had read your posts, I am pretty sure I installed the TO correctly

alexandervdr

Pilot bushing, unsure if it was bronze or oilite, you may have a point. The noise I get is 'growling', like if a ball bearing turns loose between the outer and inner ring. That's why I think first about the TO, but could it be the pilot bushing? Anyone?

skids

I would disassemble and inspect. If the input shaft has deposits on it from the bushing, you found the problem.
That was the scenario in my case. Bronze bushing was a Quarter master from Auto Gear. Replaced with oilite from Auto Gear and everything is quiet.

DucatiDon

I had a TO bearing that had a damaged lip (curled/bent forward) that caused it to squeal like you suggest.

Easy Rhino

I bought a 2004 car new that around 30,000 miles the throwout bearing started squealing when I depressed the clutch pedal. I was bummed and began to do the mental gymnastics on replacing it. It remained loud, but not rough to operate. After about another 5-10,000 miles later it spontaneously quit making noise. I kept the car another couple of years, maybe another 20-30K miles, and it never made another noise.

alexandervdr

just an update...Some drives continue to have intermittent squeal while clutching. Still trying to delay the removal of the gearbox (for obvious reasons) while trying easier possible fixes. So I went on greasing the pinion (between the outer ring and the fork channel). Did not want to have grease spilling over to the clutch so this is what I did. I removed the fork rubber boot, I put an endoscope through the bell opening with a clear view on where I wanted to grease. Then I took a white grease rattle can, prolonged the spray tip with a thin 1.5ft plastic tube (bent 90° at the tip). Then I pointed the tip exactly where I wanted to be (while looking at the endoscope screen, I felt like a surgeon ) and sprayed small amounts of grease at a time. I was lucky, by pushing the tip against the bearing I could rotate it bit by bit, each time adding some grease till I had the full contour done. I since did 4 drives, and no squealing whatsoever. To early to be sure, but I usually got the problem 1 out of 2...one never knows and anything is better than taking the transmission out to replace the bearing

MikeM

The throw out bearing is not supposed to turn in the throw out fork if that is what you're greasing.

alexandervdr

Understood that, so no, that is not what I was greasing, I was greasing the other side.

alexandervdr

10s of drives later, and still not one single squeal. That squeal has been there on an intermittent base ( say every 2nd or 3rd drive) since day 1 I put the car on the road 18 months ago. So I can safely assume the greasing fixed it

68hemi

Sounds like you are another victim of our great NEW inferior parts we get today. I just had to have the throw out bearing replaced in my 57 after only about 500 miles.

alexandervdr

best guess is that the (self centring and sliding) bearing was not sliding freely enough in the housing and got stuck once in a while. Grease solved that...

427/42566 coup

Throw bearing noisy right after I purchased my '66' . I ignored noise for few years until one day could not get trans into gear . Luckily happened front of garage door.

alexandervdr

Exactly the reason why I tried to fix it now rather than wait to see what happens: getting rid of the noise that would harass me for years and avoid to get stuck.