Battery replacement
#1
Melting Slicks
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Battery replacement
It's funny that I forgot how much of a pain it is to replace the battery on my '63. At 65 years old, if my new battery lasts as long as this last one, I figure I might only have 1 more battery replacement in me before I have to pay someone to have it done. It was a lot easier to replace my Battery last time I did it 9 years ago.
This time I had an oil leak from my valve covers that sprayed a little oil on the battery. Taking that thing out was like trying to hold on to a greased pig. Knowing what a pain it is, I am afraid to let anyone else do it that hasn't tried it before. Not to mention I had to cut the handle off the case of the battery to get the hold down frame to fit.
Do you guys trust the average shop to replace your battery on your C2?
This time I had an oil leak from my valve covers that sprayed a little oil on the battery. Taking that thing out was like trying to hold on to a greased pig. Knowing what a pain it is, I am afraid to let anyone else do it that hasn't tried it before. Not to mention I had to cut the handle off the case of the battery to get the hold down frame to fit.
Do you guys trust the average shop to replace your battery on your C2?
#2
Melting Slicks
On my '67 with A/C, Sears once refused to do it. The same store had installed the battery seven years or so previously, but this time, they just couldn't wrap their heads around the idea of the battery coming out through the wheel well access panel.
#3
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I recently replaced mine after 9 years, like you did. There is no way I'd trust anyone else to do it, unless it was another old codger like me w/experience w/these Vettes. Some day, when my back gives out, and I can no longer do it, I'll have to find another codger, but who is maybe a little younger, w/a stronger back. No way Jose that I'll ever let an "average shop" tackle it.
#5
Melting Slicks
I had this job this week too. Factory air '64 coupe. The replacement battery had a plastic strap to carry it. When the battery was put in, the extra plastic for the carrier would not allow the panel to position correctly, so I had to remove to again to trim it off. Do it yourself for as long as you can.
#9
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St. Jude Donor '20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I had my battery replaced by someone else but it was at a shop that only works on chrome bumper Corvettes.
Steve
Steve
#10
Burning Brakes
#11
Melting Slicks
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Getting the old battery out is a pain but getting one in without a carry strap seems worse. Last one I put in had no strap so I put it into four plastic grocery bags and held on to their handles to lower the battery. Worked great. Cut/tear the bags and easily pull them out from under and around the battery. Done. Dave
#12
I have learned one thing about repair shops, they are there to make money & they do not respect your car like you do, sadly I got that rude awakening reinforced when I brought my 2015 in for factory service, they couldn't even put the car back to the way that the factory did, I went to a different dealer to fix what the first dealer left undone & they didn't do much better, so in response to your question, NO, I will never allow anyone to touch my C2 or my C3. Sadly as long as my 2015 is under warranty, I have no choice, one other thing I am 70 years old and built my own fully equipped repair shop just to maintain my cars myself, it was cheaper in the long run.
#13
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It seems a simple matter to me to take the surge tank loose from the fender and tie it out of the way. Remove the battery cables and grab a battery post with a pair of channel locks and hoist away. Reverse to install the battery and you're done.
Of course, I don't need the repo batteries that have vented caps and spill acid and I don't have AC.
Of course, I don't need the repo batteries that have vented caps and spill acid and I don't have AC.
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KC John (10-28-2017)
#15
Race Director
It seems a simple matter to me to take the surge tank loose from the fender and tie it out of the way. Remove the battery cables and grab a battery post with a pair of channel locks and hoist away. Reverse to install the battery and you're done.
Of course, I don't need the repo batteries that have vented caps and spill acid and I don't have AC.
Of course, I don't need the repo batteries that have vented caps and spill acid and I don't have AC.
The reproduction batteries have been gel cell for the past 10 years or so. They are sealed and cannot leak. They also fit as original and (if treated good) can last 7-10 years.
On current replacement batteries that contain free liquid acid, you can tape up the vent cap breathing hole(s) (one for each side of three cells) and they also will not leak when tilted.
Actually factory AC cars probably have the easiest job with battery replacement and no spills. Remove the front left wheel and access cover and just pull it out. Can also be done with wheel on, but front suspension needs to hang to provide adequate clearance and battery will need to be tilted straight down when removing to clear tie rods.
FWIW.
Larry
#16
Team Owner
Just be aware that AGM batteries require a charger specifically rated for use with these batteries.
#17
Melting Slicks
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I didn't even know that tool existed, but I don't think it would have helped because there is so little room to lift straight up.
Believe it or not putting the new battery in was easy because of the lack of oil on the battery and also gravity helped. I'll have to remember the plastic grocery bags the next time I have to do this job.
This is what I did, but I didn't think of using channel locks to get a better grip. I hope I also remember this trick when it comes time to do it again.
Getting the old battery out is a pain but getting one in without a carry strap seems worse. Last one I put in had no strap so I put it into four plastic grocery bags and held on to their handles to lower the battery. Worked great. Cut/tear the bags and easily pull them out from under and around the battery. Done. Dave
This is what I did, but I didn't think of using channel locks to get a better grip. I hope I also remember this trick when it comes time to do it again.
#18
Race Director
Yup. Remove the surge tank straps, move the tank out of the way, and use a battery lift strap. One hand lifting the strap, and the other guiding and tilting the battery. It's not that difficult as long as your back holds out. Mine is good for about 10 minutes of bending and lifting - which is just about enough for each stage of this job!
#19
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You can also just put one end of the strap on one post of the battery and hoist away.
#20
Burning Brakes
Mike:
The reproduction batteries have been gel cell for the past 10 years or so. They are sealed and cannot leak. They also fit as original and (if treated good) can last 7-10 years.
On current replacement batteries that contain free liquid acid, you can tape up the vent cap breathing hole(s) (one for each side of three cells) and they also will not leak when tilted.
Actually factory AC cars probably have the easiest job with battery replacement and no spills. Remove the front left wheel and access cover and just pull it out. Can also be done with wheel on, but front suspension needs to hang to provide adequate clearance and battery will need to be tilted straight down when removing to clear tie rods.
FWIW.
Larry
The reproduction batteries have been gel cell for the past 10 years or so. They are sealed and cannot leak. They also fit as original and (if treated good) can last 7-10 years.
On current replacement batteries that contain free liquid acid, you can tape up the vent cap breathing hole(s) (one for each side of three cells) and they also will not leak when tilted.
Actually factory AC cars probably have the easiest job with battery replacement and no spills. Remove the front left wheel and access cover and just pull it out. Can also be done with wheel on, but front suspension needs to hang to provide adequate clearance and battery will need to be tilted straight down when removing to clear tie rods.
FWIW.
Larry
Last edited by scopeli; 10-28-2017 at 03:12 PM.