When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a C2, 63 vette, 327, 300HP, choke tube installed. I have trouble starting it after it has sat for several days. what is the suggested procedure?
I have a C2, 63 vette, 327, 300HP, choke tube installed. I have trouble starting it after it has sat for several days. what is the suggested procedure?
Check the top of the Forum page under Forums, go down to C1-C2 vettes. I am sure you'll find more help in that specific forum.
I have a C2, 63 vette, 327, 300HP, choke tube installed. I have trouble starting it after it has sat for several days. what is the suggested procedure?
With today's gasoline carburetor cars can have problems with fuel evaporating out of the vented bodies so some of what you report seems to be normal today.
The best thing you can do is to make sure the choke is adjusted properly and closes completely with the first tap of the accelerator pedal.
Spin the engine over about 10-12 times on the starter, pump the gas a couple times and crank again with your foot off the gas. If it doesn't start, crank a few more revolutions, pump the gas a couple of times and it should start.
50 years ago, this wasn't a problem with and AFB. Today, with today's gasoline seems to be normal.
I've never had a problem starting an engine without a working choke but they come in handy to keep a cold engine running.
Spin the engine over about 10-12 times on the starter, pump the gas a couple times and crank again with your foot off the gas. If it doesn't start, crank a few more revolutions, pump the gas a couple of times and it should start.
50 years ago, this wasn't a problem with and AFB. Today, with today's gasoline seems to be normal.
I've never had a problem starting an engine without a working choke but they come in handy to keep a cold engine running.
That’s exactly what I do to start my car after sitting a couple of days. Subsequent starts are instantaneous with foot off the gas. So fast, I never hear the starter.
I have an electric choke and use non-ethanol fuel.
Even when I put rebuilt carbs BONE dry on a car, the car starts in 3-5 seconds....
I don't get it when people report this, my feeling is it has to be something exogenous to the carb - fuel pump, venting perhaps ?? I simply don't know.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Nov 5, 2017 at 07:01 AM.
Or if you don't want to spin a cold motor for 5 - 10 seconds before pumping and firing - you can get a plastic condiments bottle with a tip, fill it part way with gas, remove the air cleaner and squirt a bit down the primary carb throats and some down the primary bowl vent near the driver side metering rods, replace the air cleaner, pump the throttle 2-3 times and turn the key. It will fire instantly. Kind of your choice which procedure to use.
I don't get it when people report this, my feeling is it has to be something exogenous to the carb - fuel pump, venting perhaps ?? I simply don't know.
Review posts #3,4, and 7 for the reason for what you don't know.
Or if you don't want to spin a cold motor for 5 - 10 seconds before pumping and firing - you can get a plastic condiments bottle with a tip, fill it part way with gas, remove the air cleaner and squirt a bit down the primary carb throats and some down the primary bowl vent near the driver side metering rods, replace the air cleaner, pump the throttle 2-3 times and turn the key. It will fire instantly. Kind of your choice which procedure to use.
Or, just buy a can of starter fluid, and spray it in the carb. Way easier.
Before you attempt to start it one day remove the air filter and work the accelerator linkage. As you do look down in the carb and see if it is skirting fuel from the accelerator pump. I can't believe all of the gas evaporates in a few days. I could believe that the choke might need adjustment.
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C1 of the Year Winner - Modified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods)
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
Welcome to the forum. With engine cold, remove the air cleaner and see if the butterfly closes when you trip the accelerator rod on the carb. The choke mechanism should close it with about an 1/8 gap or so. The choke tube only draws heated air when it’s running to speed up the choke spring to open the butterfly. There’s a small passage way in the carb and choke housing that can be clogged up with carbon that would slow down the choke opening after its running. How long have you had the car?
Before you attempt to start it one day remove the air filter and work the accelerator linkage. As you do look down in the carb and see if it is skirting fuel from the accelerator pump. I can't believe all of the gas evaporates in a few days. I could believe that the choke might need adjustment.
Believe it. The AFB on my '63 has to be primed or I have to crank for excessive lengths of time if I let the car sit for a week or so. Once the engine fires and fuel reaches the AFB, it will re-fire instantly.
Spin the engine over about 10-12 times on the starter, pump the gas a couple times and crank again with your foot off the gas. If it doesn't start, crank a few more revolutions, pump the gas a couple of times and it should start.
50 years ago, this wasn't a problem with and AFB. Today, with today's gasoline seems to be normal.
I've never had a problem starting an engine without a working choke but they come in handy to keep a cold engine running.
This reminds me of the lengthy discussion we had on this over at the Vetteheads site a few years ago. A few of those guys refused to believe that E10 fuel can completely evaporate/boil out of a carburetor bowl overnight.
My extensive testing proved it does though.
This reminds me of the lengthy discussion we had on this over at the Vetteheads site a few years ago. A few of those guys refused to believe that E10 fuel can completely evaporate/boil out of a carburetor bowl overnight.
My extensive testing proved it does though.
It dries up in my garden tractor fleet after a few days. Lot's of cranking to get started.
It even dries up in my FI '63 if I let it sit for a couple of weeks.
I don't understand why people keep talking about the choke here? Choke operation has nothing to do with a dry carburetor bowl. Same thing with pumping the gas pedal with a dry bowl.
I drove many years and winters with no choke operation at all on my vehicle(s), even one winter when it got down to -30*F (1963) and I never missed a day of driving. Keeping the engine running that cold day after the Chokeless start was a little rough that day but it continued to run okay after a few seconds.
For those that are interested, pour a little gasoline in a saucer and set it in the sun on a warm day and watch how fast it dries up. Then think about that hot engine that is doing the same thing in the carburetor to the gasoline.
PS. WCFB's don't seem as prone to this condition as the AFB's in my experience.
Put some airplane gas in it if it's a huge burden.
It dries up in my garden tractor fleet after a few days. Lot's of cranking to get started.
It even dries up in my FI '63 if I let it sit for a couple of weeks.
I don't understand why people keep talking about the choke here? Choke operation has nothing to do with a dry carburetor bowl. Same thing with pumping the gas pedal with a dry bowl.
I drove many years and winters with no choke operation at all on my vehicle(s), even one winter when it got down to -30*F (1963) and I never missed a day of driving. Keeping the engine running that cold day after the Chokeless start was a little rough that day but it continued to run okay after a few seconds.
I agree. I never liked or needed chokes on Corvettes. (or many other cars I had back in the 60's) I think they're necessary for people that are not mechanically inclined or know little about engines though. But most of those people don't know the proper procedure for starting a cold engine anyway.
If I go on a cruise with my 66 with a 425 HP 427 on a 90° day, using E10, the carburetor bowels will be near empty within a several hours after I return home. A hot engine, especially a fat block at 210°, makes fuel in the carburetor evap a lot faster. Just another reason why I don't use that crap! Not even in my lawn mower.
Out where I am, in the land of arid climate and ethanol-laced fuel, the carbs in all my old vehicles are dry after a week or so. No issue, really. And the added advantage of the car being cranked without immediate fire-up is that oil pressure has built up, so when it does light off, it has protection to the bearings due to the oil being where it needs to be already.
I've experimented with cranking the motor over for awhile to fill the carb bowl - and using starter fluid - and flipping on my electric pump back by the tank and running it for awhile - and I've not personally had good results with any of them. Usually, I get tired of spinning the cold engine, pump the throttle a couple of times and if the motor will fire, it does so as if it's got half enough fuel - or too much fuel. Half the time it sputters to a stop, sometimes it coughs and coughs and I've even had a backfire or two. If one of these works for you - more power to you.
It's a bit more work but I've found filling the bowl with a squirt bottle and then starting the motor the way it was designed to start works for me - no stalling, no flooding, coughing and sputtering, and no running the starter for long periods of time (anyone who likes to listen to GTX's Chrysler reduction gear starter crank for 10 - 15 seconds is crazy).
And yes, both my Plymouth and Corvette carbs are too dry to fire quickly after a couple of days sitting - particularly in the summer months.
I've experimented with cranking the motor over for awhile to fill the carb bowl - and using starter fluid - and flipping on my electric pump back by the tank and running it for awhile - and I've not personally had good results with any of them. Usually, I get tired of spinning the cold engine, pump the throttle a couple of times and if the motor will fire, it does so as if it's got half enough fuel - or too much fuel. Half the time it sputters to a stop, sometimes it coughs and coughs and I've even had a backfire or two. If one of these works for you - more power to you.
It's a bit more work but I've found filling the bowl with a squirt bottle and then starting the motor the way it was designed to start works for me - no stalling, no flooding, coughing and sputtering, and no running the starter for long periods of time (anyone who likes to listen to GTX's Chrysler reduction gear starter crank for 10 - 15 seconds is crazy).
And yes, both my Plymouth and Corvette carbs are too dry to fire quickly after a couple of days sitting - particularly in the summer months.
Your method is the best way to start the engine, I used a small plastic mustard container but be careful because the fuel left in the container will eventually melt the plastic, or so it did in my case. Car starts normal every time.
Welcome to the forum. With engine cold, remove the air cleaner and see if the butterfly closes when you trip the accelerator rod on the carb. The choke mechanism should close it with about an 1/8 gap or so. The choke tube only draws heated air when it’s running to speed up the choke spring to open the butterfly. There’s a small passage way in the carb and choke housing that can be clogged up with carbon that would slow down the choke opening after its running. How long have you had the car?
I've had the car 1 year. I've got some good suggestions on the Forum. Will experiment with the methods suggested. Thanks to all for the replies.
Carter's 63