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[C1] Solid Lifter Identification

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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 05:49 PM
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Default Solid Lifter Identification

Sorry Everyone...

After straining my eyes reading all the 283 Valve Adjustment posts. I need confirmation on which lifters I have.

I have taken #1 side Valve Cover off and I am at TDC #1. I have tried to push down on the rocker (Push Rod Side) to see if there was any play or movement up or down of any of the intake or exhaust valves. There was no movement.

I am making the assumption that I have solid lifters. I plan to use Frankie's Valve Adjustment Procedure in the morning.

Will someone confirm what I have assumed?

Solid Lifter or Hydraulic? My 283 is, I believe, a truck 283 with a 350 cam.

I will plan to set valve lash @ .012

Please don't throw down the " Beat the Dead Horse" thing........

Have a great weekend.......

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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:10 PM
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When the motor was running did it make valve train noise that wasent from the rockers. The only 350 that got a solid lifter cam was the 70-72 LT-1 Do you have paper work for the engone
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:17 PM
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No movement on any valves sounds like hydraulic lifters to me.
With my LT-1 (solid lifter), you can always rattle a few....

Maybe I'm mis-understanding what you are saying.... try to rattle the rockers.
(and I'm assuming the engine was running OK recently??)

Last edited by SDVette; Nov 10, 2017 at 06:20 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:38 PM
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with the valve cover off[eng ''NOT'' running],try to look down the push-rod hole[you might need to take the push-rod out too],look at the top of the lifter,do you see a small wire clip?,thats a hyd lifter,,
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
When the motor was running did it make valve train noise that wasent from the rockers. The only 350 that got a solid lifter cam was the 70-72 LT-1 Do you have paper work for the engone
#6 WAS MAKING A SLIGHT TAPPING noise that was not present after a 3 hour trip a couple weeks ago.

Last edited by dcamick; Nov 10, 2017 at 07:08 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:44 PM
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#1 Intake and Exhaust are loose......
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dmaxx3500
with the valve cover off[eng ''NOT'' running],try to look down the push-rod hole[you might need to take the push-rod out too],look at the top of the lifter,do you see a small wire clip?,thats a hyd lifter,,
I will do that......Solids have an U clip?
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:53 PM
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I think if they were hydraulic, the pre-load would keep everything tight at TDC...
What's the clearance on them now?
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SDVette
No movement on any valves sounds like hydraulic lifters to me.
With my LT-1 (solid lifter), you can always rattle a few....

Maybe I'm mis-understanding what you are saying.... try to rattle the rockers.
(and I'm assuming the engine was running OK recently??)
Actually, after reading forum posts, I found that if you push down on the rocker (even the ones that are tight) there would be some push down if the lifters were hydraulic. and to answer your question....I got a slight valve tap after changing my fuel filter....following a spirited drive last week.

Last edited by dcamick; Nov 10, 2017 at 06:55 PM. Reason: addition
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
When the motor was running did it make valve train noise that wasent from the rockers. The only 350 that got a solid lifter cam was the 70-72 LT-1 Do you have paper work for the engone
Nowhere Man,

I do not have paperwork on the 283 that is currently in the car. I have noticed valve train noise that was normal...if you can call it that!!!!

What prompted me to do a valve adjustment was a minor "valve tap" #6 that occurred last week after changing my fuel filter.
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SDVette
I think if they were hydraulic, the pre-load would keep everything tight at TDC...
What's the clearance on them now?
#1 intake and exhaust are loose with less than a .008 clearance...at #1 TDC.
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dmaxx3500
with the valve cover off[eng ''NOT'' running],try to look down the push-rod hole[you might need to take the push-rod out too],look at the top of the lifter,do you see a small wire clip?,thats a hyd lifter,,
dmaxx,

There is a wire clip that runs over the lifter on both top edges. It looks to be a round paper clip size gauge.

By the way, shouldn't these rocker arm nuts be at least snug when turning them??? #1 exhaust rocker nut was not giving me much resistance when removing. It was close to loose!!

Last edited by dcamick; Nov 10, 2017 at 07:56 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 10:31 PM
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The other suggestions are not accurate because the rockers could be already loose and any over tightening while running might cause engine damage. The only accurate way to tell is by removing the valve cover (engine off) and setting up a dial indicator on the valve retainer as shown below.
Turn the rocker adjustment nut a bit and watch the dial. Stop turning and keep watching the dial. If it changes, you have hydraulic lifters. If it stays the same, you have solids.
Verne

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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by W Guy
The other suggestions are not accurate because the rockers could be already loose and any over tightening while running might cause engine damage. The only accurate way to tell is by removing the valve cover (engine off) and setting up a dial indicator on the valve retainer as shown below.
Turn the rocker adjustment nut a bit and watch the dial. Stop turning and keep watching the dial. If it changes, you have hydraulic lifters. If it stays the same, you have solids.
Verne

Attachment 48224204
Verne,

Very interesting....I actually used a scope.... sent it down in the push rod hole and got a closeup of the lifter clip. I have determined that I have hydraulic lifters. I just finished making valve adjustments that in some cases were necessary. I crank it tomorrow see what happens

Thanks much for your help!
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 11:27 PM
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He's got <.008 on both exhaust and intake at TDC.. Either they are hydraulic and things are too loose, or they are solid and they are too tight.

I went through this myself (not knowing which). I set them for zero lash (assuming they were hydraulic). The engine turned haplessly (no compression) - something was obviously VERY wrong. It didn't start, but no damage occurred (and this is with LT-1 domed pistons). Backed them off to .025/.030 and it ran like a dream!

Good luck!

Last edited by SDVette; Nov 11, 2017 at 12:04 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 06:37 AM
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The real problem here sounds like adjustment nuts that are worn out and not holding their torque on the stud.

Last edited by MikeM; Nov 11, 2017 at 06:38 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
The real problem here sounds like adjustment nuts that are worn out and not holding their torque on the stud.
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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the easiest way to tell lf hyd or solid is with the engine running slowly tighten down a rocket arm till the engine starts idling rough,stop adjusting and if it smooths out it is a hyd lifter.

Last edited by PAmotorman; Nov 11, 2017 at 09:37 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by PAmotorman
the easiest way to tell lf hyd or solid is with the engine running slowly tighten down a rocket arm till the engine starts idling rough,stop adjusting and if it smooths out it is a hyd lifter.
Yep and if you don't have a wrench handy, just shove down on the lifter end of the rocker hard with the heel of your hand and see if you get a noise or a louder noise.
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
The real problem here sounds like adjustment nuts that are worn out and not holding their torque on the stud.
I agree also...A few of the nuts were not tight at all when backing them off to get to "0" lash.

Finished adjustments last night...went well considering my first attempt at adjusting my valves on the 61.

I will purchase replacement adj. nuts and monitor things. My Sears Timing light that I purchased back in 1975 (43 years) finally stopped working. LOL!

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