[C2] priming
Thread Starter
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priming
Just had my 67 427-435 rebuilt. I installed the heads and everything else. Adjusted the valves according to cam specs. I have been trying to prime the motor. I have oil coming up through the lifters, but nothing coming up to the rockers. I have read that solid lifters won't pump up to the rockers. Unless running. Is this true or should I just keep priming? Here are a couple of pictures, of the oil in the lifter valley and the two tools I have.
Last edited by prestige6; Jan 13, 2018 at 06:57 PM.
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Just had my 67 427-435 rebuilt. I installed the heads and everything else. Adjusted the valves according to cam specs. I have been trying to prime the motor. I have oil coming up through the lifters, but nothing coming up to the rockers. I have read that solid lifters won't pump up to the rockers. Unless running. Is this true or should I just keep priming?
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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What are you using to prime the engine, if the priming tool does not seal the oil galley that runs around the lower distributor area there will be a internal oil leak. Also, there was a change in the 1967 time frame from a groove in the rear cam journal to a groove in the block and if the parts installed are not correct there will be an internal oil leak.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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Team Owner
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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the only thing I will add your primmer tool does not have the semi circle grove at the bottom like a real 65-74 GM BB dist.
Safety Car
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From memory, the 67 camshaft does not have a groove and the block has a groove for oil to flow to the lifter gallery and the rear camshaft bearing is different.
Someone will explain the actual difference.
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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I would verify if the camshaft has the groove or not in the rear bearing journal plus what rear cam bearing was installed.
From memory, the 67 camshaft does not have a groove and the block has a groove for oil to flow to the lifter gallery and the rear camshaft bearing is different.
Someone will explain the actual difference.
From memory, the 67 camshaft does not have a groove and the block has a groove for oil to flow to the lifter gallery and the rear camshaft bearing is different.
Someone will explain the actual difference.
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'65 and '66 big blocks require a camshaft with a groove in the rear journal and a "three hole" rear cam bearing. The groove is the oil transfer passage to the lifter galleries and valve train via the two small end holes in the bearing. The center hole is the passage to the crankshaft oiling gallery.
So you need to audit the manufacturer/part number of the installed cam and rear cam bearing to ensure they are correct for those first two years of big blocks.
I don't think the Federal Mogul replacement SHP cam has the groove, so it must be machined in the field... not sure about other vendors.
For '67-up the oil transfer annulus and passages to the lifter galleries were machined into the block, so only a single hole was required in the rear cam bearing and no groove was require in the rear cam journal. It's okay to use a grooved rear bearing cam in '67-up big blocks, but not okay to use a non-grooved cam in '65/'66 big blocks, and they must also have the three-hole rear cam bearing.
Duke
So you need to audit the manufacturer/part number of the installed cam and rear cam bearing to ensure they are correct for those first two years of big blocks.
I don't think the Federal Mogul replacement SHP cam has the groove, so it must be machined in the field... not sure about other vendors.
For '67-up the oil transfer annulus and passages to the lifter galleries were machined into the block, so only a single hole was required in the rear cam bearing and no groove was require in the rear cam journal. It's okay to use a grooved rear bearing cam in '67-up big blocks, but not okay to use a non-grooved cam in '65/'66 big blocks, and they must also have the three-hole rear cam bearing.
Duke
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That battery powered drill may be adding to the problem? It may be a little short in the britches.
Last edited by MikeM; Jan 14, 2018 at 11:10 AM.
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If you oil at the lifters you are good to go, you have filled the filter, and the oil passages to the bearings, the oil pump can take over when you fire it up.
Doug
Doug
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My first thought. I would prefer to see an electric 1/2 drill with a side handle that puts outs some real torque.OP can hookup a psi gage to see what oil pressure he has when priming. Drill should be around 700 RPM output.
Larry
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From: Olive branch Ms
Put it in run it. You're done. I've primed many motors with a speed handle. Turning by hand is enough to get 50-60 lbs. If it's bypassing it doesn't matter how fast you spin the pump.
Last edited by Robert61; Jan 14, 2018 at 11:57 AM.
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From: Sarver Pa
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It takes a loooooong time to get oil to the rockers on a big block. I had the same trouble as you, finally buttoned it up, started it, med fast idle and oil running all over. Good to go.
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From: Greenville, Indiana
I had the same problem years ago with the only solid lifter BB I put together. I used a big half inch corded drill and it pulled it pretty hard.