GEM '62

Looks like it works on metal, wood and masonry, not sure if it works on fiber glass.


https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/vide...ing/vi-AAuMbSV

csherman

it works on fiberglass

EnfieldJoe

I had a 56 Ford COE cab (metal) "dustless blasted". Would never do it again. Even with the rust inhibitor additive, the bare metal almost immediately flashed over (rust). The operator used the wrong compressor (rental) and consequently used alot more media and labor than he was supposed to for the job. (I called the company to verify my concern, operator would not adjust his price.) Cost me more than traditional bead, or walnut shell media based blasting. It is messy, muddy water stuck in ever crevasse.

Not sure I would try it with fiberglass car. Maybe a boat, which has more structure (balsa, or foam core).

DUB

FOR WHAT THIS IS WORTH:

I had ONE panel done with water and baking soda and they F*CKED it up ROYALLY. No other way to describe it.

And if a person watches that video carefully...and out 3/4 of the way through it when they blast on the brick wall...look and see how much the water changes color to the red.

And as far as I know...bricks are harder than fiberglass.

If people follow what I comment on and what I feel strongly about....I am NOT a fan of having water get on raw fiberglass/SMC. What others feel strongly about is up to them.

As I have written...even though some ways to strip paint work well on other materials...I am sticking with what I KNOW works and not worry about how to try to get it done any faster. I am waiting to see if I can have a test panel blasted in dry ice...but no luck in that so far. SO it is not that I am stuck in my ways...I am just REALLY PICKY on what method I use...and hope that it does not cause me MORE time or a F-up later on.

DUB

Shift_Happens

So what method are you using to strip paint?

Frankie the Fink

I don't know of anybody who uses that water jet gizmo on old Corvettes, I can see where something could go wrong and damage panels.

My car was stripped with a razor blade and a bit of chemical stripper...

DUB

I do it like Frankie shows.

I get off as much paint with a razor blade knife without wasting a lot of time on it. Then I go at it with chemical stripper that most people would think I am crazy using...but I have been doing it like this and KNOW what I am doing...and it is not that bad.

Worthless information to many of you.

I often times do not get to caught up in the warning on some products from the manufacturer. I pay attention to them but I also know why some of these warnings or disclaimers are written. They are written to protect themselves from liability due to the idiots in this world who do not read and ask questions and just jump right in not knowing anything about it and screw it up ROYALLY and then want someone to bail them out of their screw up because they did not TEST the product(s) first. Just to darn ignorant or impatient is my guess.

When I call the tech line and/or compare the ingredients in different strength levels of the products offered by that manufacturer. I realize that I am using a STOUT chemical stripper. But it seems that they are the same but the blends of these main ingredients have changed to possibly change how it works.of the same ingredients have changed bit.

Think of this this way. For those who may know this...they sell lacquer thinner to thin lacquer paint. BUT...lacquer thinner comes in different grades. Some will dry fast and is used for the priming stage....while other grades of lacquer thinner are really SLOW drying and can really penetrate due to it takes longer to dry. So...the are the same but yet different. SO...a person would NOT want to use a SLOW grade lacquer thinner when priming due to it would take a LONG time. And some people might need to use a weak strength chemical stripper due to they fear the unknown.

And IF a person does test areas and see what is going on and how the paint is reacting to that specific stripper...then they should NOT have any problems.

The only thing I prefer to use is GOOD automotive grade priming lacquer thinner instead of water when I am getting the final residue of chemical stripper off the panel.

DUB

Frankie the Fink

Unfortunately, there is a lot of handwork involved....in my case some prior body/paint person decided to use primer like filler and there were heavy, gobbed up areas ...and I wondered why I had poor adhesion and paint bubbles the size of a burrito.

All fixed now!

When owners talk about "driver quality" and $1,500 paint jobs...this is the kind of thing lurking beneath the shine

DUB

I agree on all of what you wrote.

And the 'driver quality' paint job that some people come by my shop and want. I tell them to go somewhere else...and when it screws up...take it back to the person who did it. Do not come back for me to fix it. And this is often times due to so many shortcuts were done to keep the price down...that PROPER PREP has more than likely taken a back seat.

But...over 30 years ago when I was gettign my shop off the ground and known..I WOULD strip and paint a car ALL OVER (jambs included) for $1500.00. Obviously weatherstrips, emblems and stuff like that was additional. But keep in mind that costs of the paint was no where it is today....and basecoat/clearcoat was just getting into the mainstream. So many of these jobs were lacquer due to the colors had not yet had a formula made for them in BC/CC.

DUB