When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Mine is cut out and the choke works fine. The hot air line coming up through the exhaust manifold feeds heat to the choke to loosen the spring so it pulls off. The heat riser heats the intake manifold under the carb, not the choke.
As someone said, the heat riser will cause moisture to be trapped in your passenger side muffler and it will rust sooner than the driver's side. The exhaust note also sounds muted on the passenger side until the heat riser opens as well. My cars run fine without a heat riser. And I don't have to worry about them sticking closed, as I've had some do and block one side of the exhaust even when warm. My personal feeling is that heat going under the manifold is also what causes the orange paint to flake off of the intake manifold on the 300 and less hp cars.
It's your car and your choice and you're free to do whichever pleases you.
Mine is cut out and the choke works fine. The hot air line coming up through the exhaust manifold feeds heat to the choke to loosen the spring so it pulls off. The heat riser heats the intake manifold under the carb, not the choke.
Mine is cut out and the choke works fine. The hot air line coming up through the exhaust manifold feeds heat to the choke to loosen the spring so it pulls off. The heat riser heats the intake manifold under the carb, not the choke.
'66/later, the choke coil was moved to the exhaust crossover on the manifold. Unlike '65.
'66 choke may still work without a heat riser but I'd expect the action to be delayed. I think not having a working choke is not a big deal anyway. Might cause you not to get a blue ribbon but......................
'66/later, the choke coil was moved to the exhaust crossover on the manifold. Unlike '65.
'66 choke may still work without a heat riser but I'd expect the action to be delayed. I think not having a working choke is not a big deal anyway. Might cause you not to get a blue ribbon but......................
My 72 had the same divorced choke system. I removed the spring on the heat riser so that it stayed open all the time. The choke still worked perfectly. I can't say whether it took longer to open, but when adjusted properly, it worked great.
Putting my overhauled 66 427/425 back together. Do I really need the exhaust heat riser on this motor? I live in a mild climate. Thought i would just cut the butterfly valve out and reinstall it inline.
only need it if you are using a choke? and if you have and intake that is not blocked off like most performance aluminium are. Plus the better drive ability when it is cooler temps when it is installed.
just note your choke will never work if you do this. but like said many times if you only driver in warmer weather it doesn't mater
Actually the choke still works without a heat riser. It will of course heat up more slowly and stay closed longer, but that's a "feature" of the slower warmup.
By contrast an electric choke doesn't get any feedback and won't know that you removed the heat riser and so will not be calibrated correctly, whereas the divorced one can compensate.
Random tip: when I installed an electric choke I ran the ground wire to an idiot light oil pressure sensor. That way the electric choke heater only heated itself if the engine was actively running, as opposed to just the key being on.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.