Shifter rebuild
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 801
Likes: 17
From: Middletown Delaware
Shifter rebuild
Rebuilding 66 4 speed shifter. The shifter arm is loose at the bottom in the block. Can this be tighten up some how or welded.
Last edited by Dave Witman; Feb 6, 2018 at 05:41 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Glen Allen VA
Dave, do not understand. The chrome handle has several wear points. The faces of the square that fit in the "housing" for lack of a better term. The pin that holds the shaft in the "housing" and in early C2's the bellville washer that supplies tension in the "housing" aligned with the pin. Then there is the oval shaped tip of the handle that wears and goes through the gates. Then the shift levers can wear in the gates and on the pivot shaft or the shift rod holes. So what are we looking at?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Communication or terminology breakdown.
I am also confused. I have tighten up these shifters numerous times and I am lost on exactly where it was loose.
I do not know what you mean by ''loose in the block"???
Is what you are referring to as the "block"...the metal housing that all of the shifting plates slide into and are held in with the big dowel pin???
And this "block"...as you call it is partially in view in your photo in the upper left hand top corner???
DUB
I am also confused. I have tighten up these shifters numerous times and I am lost on exactly where it was loose.
I do not know what you mean by ''loose in the block"???
Is what you are referring to as the "block"...the metal housing that all of the shifting plates slide into and are held in with the big dowel pin???
And this "block"...as you call it is partially in view in your photo in the upper left hand top corner???
DUB
Melting Slicks
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Last edited by Mike67nv; Feb 6, 2018 at 07:04 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 6,183
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From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
Yup, me too on my '66. In the midst of rebuilding my OEM Muncie shifter I had the same weak spot. I took it to a local guy who welds (and a welder by trade is a bit of a lost art, I try to send this guy as much work as I can, he has welded my shifter, my clutch pedal shaft and all of the welds in my seat frames. A well restored Muncie shifter is a bit of clunk-clunk heaven, never mind what the Hurst guys tell you. 
Ray
Ray
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
I would do it that way and not think twice about it...and I have welder at my shop also. 
Race Director
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From: Cottonwood AZ
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Team Owner
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Thanks for your confidence in my posts.
Last edited by MikeM; Feb 8, 2018 at 06:58 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
Doing either (brazing or silver solder) would provide such a strong bond strength that there is no way that a person could (by hand) cause the shifter handle to ever come out.
And putting parts that have been brazed or sliver soldered in a vise and try to tear them apart...GOOD LUCK with that.
AS written by someone other than myself:
Tensile Strength of Brazed Joints. Joint strength depends on several factors: clearance between parts, base metal composition, service temperature and joint quality (low voids, good penetration). Joint design will also affect strength. The bulk tensile strength of silver braze alloys is 40,000-70,000 psi.
In this case...I could braze it or use silver solder and it would never fail.
Or read this:
https://app.aws.org/wj/2000/09/0015/
DUB
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
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From: Greenville, Indiana
One was the handle coming loose.
One was replacing the lockout "pin" with a cable.
One was welding the lockout pin on the shift body as they broke as well.
Can't remember what the fourth problem was.